Internal boom reefing lines on H37c

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Sep 3, 2010
69
Hunter 37C Annapolis
The reefing lines on the H 37c are internal. At the mast end of the boom is a jam cheat to secure the line. This jam cleat has fallen apart. One part overboard. Can anyone suggest a source for replacement or the jam cleat or a source for replacement parts? Thanks,
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
All of those parts were once available from Rig-Rite. But over the years I am sure that you have read how impossible they are to deal with. Still it might be worth a call.

One option is to run the lines to blocks mounted at the mast partner. Those blocks could have cam cleats. A few guys have run those back through deck organizers to be reefed from the cockpit. Means your halyard must also be back there. A downhaul is required too. Someone once posted using small blocks on the sail at both the luff and the leech. The line came out of the boom down to a block and back up to a block on the luff. That one line led back could pull the entire sail down once the halyard was released.
 
Jun 8, 2004
1,056
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
The same thing happened to me about 7 years ago. I was able to get replacement parts from RigRite. I ended up using bolt with nyloc nut to replace the the SS shaft, washers, circlips etc. It has not come apart since. I will have a look and see if I have any bits left over from the rebuild that might help you out...
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,114
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
From memory, believe that the OEM reef line jam cleats at the goose neck are the same as my 1980-82 Cherubini Hunter 36.

Buying the boat in 2007, I never liked the stock reefing setup at the goose neck. So I modified as described and pictured below ... which had the benefit of doing away with the jam cleats. For me, setting the reef was ok, but the springs would pull the cleat into locking position even when the line was slack. The reefing line would not run back through the boom when shaking out the reef. And also the line would not stay over the ridiculously small OEM sheave. Once off the sheave, the line would not feed well into the small opening at the goose neck.

The attached pictures show the original design (included so you can compare if it is the same as yours) and the modification I made. The large fender washer prevents the lines from jumping off the small sheaves. From inside the boom, the lines run down to blocks at the base of the mast, then back up to securing cleats on the mast. Pulling up on the lines before cleating allows for pretty good body tensioning position to get the clew close to the boom.

Subsequently I've replaced the fender washers with anodized aluminum cheeks salvaged from a nautical flea market block I purchased. The cheeks are larger in diameter than the fender washers and work better. The setup performs great for me. Items needed are: A 3/8" SS bolt (or maybe it was 5/16" ?) of the right length and a couple of washers and nuts. An old block for the salvaged checks. Couple of blocks at the mast base. I already had several cleats mounted on the mast.
 

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