On my DC side of the electrical panel I have all breaker switches except one. The one is a bus fuse. I checked the fuse and it is blown. It is a 20 amp. The problem is; I don't know what it is for. Can someone give me a hint?
H37-C Electrical Panel
- Thread starter Don LePage
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The bilge pump?
My 37.5 had a similar setup the fuse was always hot, even with the main CD breaker off. If powered the bilge pump. Pull the panel to check if the power wire goes directly into the wire loom and the fused wire leades to the auto-on switch (probably right below/above it)
Pulling the panel is very easy just take out the screws around the outside and lower it with the hinge.
My 37.5 had a similar setup the fuse was always hot, even with the main CD breaker off. If powered the bilge pump. Pull the panel to check if the power wire goes directly into the wire loom and the fused wire leades to the auto-on switch (probably right below/above it)
Pulling the panel is very easy just take out the screws around the outside and lower it with the hinge.
I don't think its my bilge pump because it is working. The automatic unit is external to the panel and has only a pilot light on the panel indicating that it is on automatic. I checked its function the other day and both the automatic and manual features are working. My other bilge pump is manual and has a breaker to turn it on.
My own 1979 panel has no such fuse Don. I guess you will have to chase the wire. I don't see you or your boat in the new Owner's Listing. What year is your boat? Maybe someone with the same year can comment.
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I have a glass fuse middle bottom of DC side of panel, labled "bilge pump" the fuse is missing and the pump works fine on auto/float switch and manual turn on.
Here is a picture of my panel. The fuse is at the bottom and the light beside it is for the automatic bilge pump. The control for it is to the right of the panel.
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My pannel is like the one on the last pic. The fuse is for the bildge pump and mine does work, the light comes on when the pump runs on auto, and the light near the manual switch comes on when the pump is turned on manuall.
I Think a great addition to any boat is a digital counter for the bildge pump. You leave the boat you set it to zero. when you return you can see how many times the pump has been runnig while you were gone. It is also great on long trips expecially when motoring because you cant hear the pump run whith the engine runningl.
I Think a great addition to any boat is a digital counter for the bildge pump. You leave the boat you set it to zero. when you return you can see how many times the pump has been runnig while you were gone. It is also great on long trips expecially when motoring because you cant hear the pump run whith the engine runningl.
But where is your panel mounted Don? That's does not look like the area on port just above the end of the nav table.
I guess my next step is to open up the panel and see if the wire is connected to anything. My automatic pump wiring is over to the right more with a fused switch more like a breaker. My manual pump is another breaker that I turn on to use the pump.
Was all much simpler in 1979. The pump was/is wired directly to the float switch from the back of the battery switch. I added an inline fuse near the pump in the bilge. Then there is one breaker on the panel allowing it to be turned on. And no lights on a 1979 electrical panel.
Dear Ed,
Looking at the picture of your electrical panel, to the left of it, you have compass
It is not the flush mount type, and I have 2 of those
Great idea to have it monted on the wall, but how is it secured?
A strap around it, and then screwed on to the wood panel?
Quite curious, I think I asked same question once...
Looking at the picture of your electrical panel, to the left of it, you have compass
It is not the flush mount type, and I have 2 of those
Great idea to have it monted on the wall, but how is it secured?
A strap around it, and then screwed on to the wood panel?
Quite curious, I think I asked same question once...
That compass just has a normal bracket mount Jorge. Just like this one: http://www.pleasureboatmarine.com/33180.html .
Got it !
Thanks Ed
I have a couple of compasses, but none of them have that bracket
But I like the idea: I have also 2 very nice, red and white Ritchie compasses, that are supposed to be installed in the cockpit, but I am reluctant to drill there, because you cannot sit there and rest your back
But have a very nice binacle compass, complete with a casing and a stainless steel cover that slides across to close it
One of these days, when I learn how to post, will put some pictures...got it done once, someone sent me instuctions, need to dig them out
Thanks Ed
I have a couple of compasses, but none of them have that bracket
But I like the idea: I have also 2 very nice, red and white Ritchie compasses, that are supposed to be installed in the cockpit, but I am reluctant to drill there, because you cannot sit there and rest your back
But have a very nice binacle compass, complete with a casing and a stainless steel cover that slides across to close it
One of these days, when I learn how to post, will put some pictures...got it done once, someone sent me instuctions, need to dig them out
Hi Don,
It looks like a previous owner modification to me. Good Luck!
Jim
SV Leben ist gut
37C 143
It looks like a previous owner modification to me. Good Luck!
Jim
SV Leben ist gut
37C 143
Tracked down the same issue on my 37C. Originally that fused circuit was a direct to battery operation of the bilge pump and bypassed the panel. buses. The other switch, labeled "bilge pump" was for manual deployment.
I found the wire from the fuse holder hanging in the bilge with a wire nut on it. Still live and not connected to anything!!!! Yikes!! What was a PO thinking? Simple to disarm the wire. Pull the fuse and toss. The Hunter manual wiring diagram was very useful in tracking this down and figuring it all out.
Reality is, it is really not necessary to have 2 separate circuits to do the automatic and bilge pump jobs.
I found the wire from the fuse holder hanging in the bilge with a wire nut on it. Still live and not connected to anything!!!! Yikes!! What was a PO thinking? Simple to disarm the wire. Pull the fuse and toss. The Hunter manual wiring diagram was very useful in tracking this down and figuring it all out.
Reality is, it is really not necessary to have 2 separate circuits to do the automatic and bilge pump jobs.
When I rewired my 37C I found the same wiring scheme. I removed that fused connection completely, and wired for 2 bilge pumps. The first one is total automatic on a breaker. The second has the same breaker for auto-mode, and also has an "on/off-/momentary-on" switch that allows me to run the pump until the bilge is dry. I like to get that last 1/2" of water out of there, which the auto mode always misses. I see the switch as a backup in case the auto-switch on the first pump fails; I can run it until dry, or the pump dies, or I run out of (400 amp-hrs) battery.
The 2nd pump will be a bit higher up by the mast step. I might wire them both to that switch, just for extra piece of mind
(I have the deep keel version, the bilge can hold a lot of water!)
The 2nd pump will be a bit higher up by the mast step. I might wire them both to that switch, just for extra piece of mind
(I have the deep keel version, the bilge can hold a lot of water!)
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