H340 'Wobbly Wheel'

[markymac1961]

Hi Folks,
Recently purchased down here in Aus a 1999 Hunter 340 (which having owned for only 3 weeks, have fallen madly in love with already)
I've noticed there's quite a bit of play in the helm (Wheel) before you feel the rudder engage and start to move. This is at rest in the berth. I'm aware of the 'push rod' steering system as I've had the floor cover up investigating AP installation (yep... that's me from the other post.)
With wheel at 'top dead centre' there would be a good 4-5 inches of 'freeplay' either way until you feel the rudder load up. I intend pulling the console apart to investigate as I hate sloppy helms. The box should all come apart fairly easily and be readily accessable. Just wondering if anyone can provide a 'heads up' on what to look for or replace before I begin dismantling. Is there a key way which might be worn or missing in behind the wheel somewhere? I'm sure I'm not the first to suffer 'Wobbly Wheel Syndrome'
Thank you in advance for any tips and experience info cheers. Mark - 'Malua' Hunter 340

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I'm sure I'm not the first to suffer 'Wobbly Wheel Syndrome'

Sorry, never heard of that before so maybe you ARE the first one to ever catch a dose of it.

Next time you are headed out to the boat, before you brush your teeth in the morning, even before you take that first leak of the day :

- remove the large nut in the centre of the wheel

- pull the steering wheel off the steering shaft

You should see a keyway on (I believe) a tapered shaft with a tightly fitting key in it. If so, that's not the problem .

Also take a look for slippage between the rudder post and its arm :

 

[markymac1961]

Sorry, never heard of that before so maybe you ARE the first one to ever catch a dose of it.

Next time you are headed out to the boat, before you brush your teeth in the morning, even before you take that first leak of the day :

- remove the large nut in the centre of the wheel

View attachment 229211​

- pull the steering wheel off the steering shaft

You should see a keyway on (I believe) a tapered shaft with a tightly fitting key in it. If so, that's not the problem .

Also take a look for slippage between the rudder post and its arm :

View attachment 229213​

Well... FYI mate I'm currently living on the boat, so cleaning teeth, peeing... and then getting that nut off should all be done in a jiffy (Oz expression for 'very short time' - not sure if it translates?) Although the peeing can take some time these days
Yep... it sure feels like nothing more than a missing or worn key way / worn slot.
I've already had the floor panel up to look at AP Ram options, and the Arm/Rudder post is rock solid.
I must say I'm most impressed with this 'push rod' steering system design which I've never seen before. Usually it's (wearing/broken) cables (wearing/broken) pulleys and sheaves etc. Clever those Americans.
Thanks for the detailed and prompt response mate. I shall tear my nut off and report back cheers. - Mark Mac

 

[Windpilot]

Make a few Keyes, good ones, I had issues with them on my 410 (same looking steering also) in fact I also had the hub drilled and taped for 2 bolts to really hold it. My wheels hub must be worn enough after 25 years and previous loosenes.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I shall tear my nut off and report back

OUCH! That sounds bloody painful, but whatever works I guess.

Take pictures of anything you find that's unusual.

 

[sailcapt340]

When you remove that wheel nut you should see a 1” x 1/4” tapered key in the slot. They do slip out when removing the wheel itself so use caution. There should also be a type of spring clip attached to the shaft as well, which applies “some” pressure on the wheel.
Other than that, it’s a rack and pinion type system inside the pedestal. You should look in there to see if the grease fitting and brake housing is securely mounted to the bottom gear. If that is lifting it would cause the 2 gears to not mesh properly and that could cause a slippage as well.

 

[sailcapt340]

This is in my manual for my 340. It’s the only reference to steering mechanism maintenance that was included back in 2000. Could be helpful to you going forward.

 

[markymac1961]

When you remove that wheel nut you should see a 1” x 1/4” tapered key in the slot. They do slip out when removing the wheel itself so use caution. There should also be a type of spring clip attached to the shaft as well, which applies “some” pressure on the wheel.
Other than that, it’s a rack and pinion type system inside the pedestal. You should look in there to see if the grease fitting and brake housing is securely mounted to the bottom gear. If that is lifting it would cause the 2 gears to not mesh properly and that could cause a slippage as well.

Thank you 'SailCapt340'. A wealth of info there... much appresh.
I shall proceed when I get a chance (other pressing issues like severely leaking roof during the wet season down here in 'Brisvegas' - Australia - Boat currently sinking from the roof down!)
That all makes absolute sense for the steering set up. I shall report back on my findings when I get stuck in to it. Cheers and Happy New Year to u - Mark Mac

 

[markymac1961]

This is in my manual for my 340. It’s the only reference to steering mechanism maintenance that was included back in 2000. Could be helpful to you going forward.

Excellent thank you for forwarding that. A handy reference I shall have a good read through and report back. Cheers and Happy New Year to u. - Mark Mac

 

[Boiler]

Google search of Edson CD-i rack and pinon steering system pointed to Edson's website. They have a manual that has a couple of relevant downloads you may want to review.

Product Tech Support - Manuals, Guides, and Maintenance Sheets

edsonmarine.com

 

[JamesG161]

Your boat manual is here

H340


From that Manual

Good Luck...

Jim...

 

[Belzoni]

This video from Edson shows details of how the shaft and brake system on a cable based system come apart. The shaft and key on yours is likely similar.

I'll caution you that the tapered pin in mine REFUSED to go quietly and I ended up having to drill it out. No combination of heat, cold (yes, I tried shocking it with ice) or even half a can of PB Blaster would coax it loose. In the end, I feared that too much banging would either crack the cast aluminum pedestal and engine control ring, or bend the shaft. Drilling out the tapered pin (from the skinny end!) was easy, but the bronze gear did take some abuse. It wasn't pretty. Alas.

Good luck.

 

[markymac1961]

UPDATE: Simple fix on my 'wobbly wheel' issue. It was a very worn keyway slug on the steering wheel spline - thanks everyone for chiming in cheers. - Mark Mac

 

[sailcapt340]

Glad to see it was a simple fix for you. There is definitely a slight play, you can feel, in the wheel each time it is turned, if the wheel nut isn’t tightened just right. Even with that, I am always retightening mine, as I feel it loosen. Not much though, not enough to even be able to measure. Really just snugging it up.
You wouldn’t think it could round off the key that much though. But it is possible. Get an extra to head off any issues going forward.

 

[BW1973]

Hi Folks,
Recently purchased down here in Aus a 1999 Hunter 340 (which having owned for only 3 weeks, have fallen madly in love with already)
I've noticed there's quite a bit of play in the helm (Wheel) before you feel the rudder engage and start to move. This is at rest in the berth. I'm aware of the 'push rod' steering system as I've had the floor cover up investigating AP installation (yep... that's me from the other post.)
With wheel at 'top dead centre' there would be a good 4-5 inches of 'freeplay' either way until you feel the rudder load up. I intend pulling the console apart to investigate as I hate sloppy helms. The box should all come apart fairly easily and be readily accessable. Just wondering if anyone can provide a 'heads up' on what to look for or replace before I begin dismantling. Is there a key way which might be worn or missing in behind the wheel somewhere? I'm sure I'm not the first to suffer 'Wobbly Wheel Syndrome'
Thank you in advance for any tips and experience info cheers. Mark - 'Malua' Hunter 340

I have a 2001 Hunter 340. Before you tear your steering apart, check the keyway inside the console just forward of the steering wheel. There is a small recess in the rod connecting the wheel. The recess holds a metal key that can fall out. Our fix was duct tape. No problems with a wobbly wheel in past 10 years.

 

[Mike Oldak]

Hi Folks,
Recently purchased down here in Aus a 1999 Hunter 340 (which having owned for only 3 weeks, have fallen madly in love with already)
I've noticed there's quite a bit of play in the helm (Wheel) before you feel the rudder engage and start to move. This is at rest in the berth. I'm aware of the 'push rod' steering system as I've had the floor cover up investigating AP installation (yep... that's me from the other post.)
With wheel at 'top dead centre' there would be a good 4-5 inches of 'freeplay' either way until you feel the rudder load up. I intend pulling the console apart to investigate as I hate sloppy helms. The box should all come apart fairly easily and be readily accessable. Just wondering if anyone can provide a 'heads up' on what to look for or replace before I begin dismantling. Is there a key way which might be worn or missing in behind the wheel somewhere? I'm sure I'm not the first to suffer 'Wobbly Wheel Syndrome'
Thank you in advance for any tips and experience info cheers. Mark - 'Malua' Hunter 340

I have been deep into the bowels of my 1983 hunter 34 to install a new Raymarine Autopilot with their new linear push rod. While doing the installation I noticed that the wire on the pulley system had stretched some over the last 40 years. Also noticed that the turnbuckles that connect the wire/pully system to the rudder wheel were sort of crusted in place and difficult to turn and shorten the stretched wire.

 

[dlochner]

I have been deep into the bowels of my 1983 hunter 34 to install a new Raymarine Autopilot with their new linear push rod. While doing the installation I noticed that the wire on the pulley system had stretched some over the last 40 years. Also noticed that the turnbuckles that connect the wire/pully system to the rudder wheel were sort of crusted in place and difficult to turn and shorten the stretched wire.View attachment 230777

And your next project is?