i would etch it with phosphoric acid, this can be aquired locally pretty easy, its used in repainting steel buildings, then lay down some zinc chromate primer and go over that with an epoxy top coat, no more rust after that,
H30 - replacing the compression post
- Thread starter H30Gary
- Start date
So the next step was to fill in the slightly (1/4" or so) depressed area under the mast step. I was concerned that the core might be waterlogged or deteriorated, so drilled a number of test holes to check this. In all cases, the shavings came out clean and dry and looking like fresh wood (sort of pink, not brown or black.) Interestingly, I found no sign of an aluminum plate like some had reported; just plywood. (I drilled all the way through the headliner to make sure - no aluminum.) Anyway, it seemed to me that the core was sound basically and not in need of replacement.
I decided to use the drill and fill technique to reinforce the core, then build up the depressed area so it was flush with the old level. I drilled holes in the depressed area, laid out on 1" centers as someone else suggested, using a piece of peg board. Next, I injected West epoxy with a syringe. Most of the holes just took the amount of epoxy to fill the hole, but some took whole syringe fulls. After the epoxy soaked in and hardened, I came back and "topped off" all the holes. Based on stomping and tapping with a hammer, I feel the result is a really strong structure. Next I hired a fellow to build the surface back up using glass mat, roving, and cloth. He finished the area with gelcoat. The final result seems really, really strong. I doubt there will be any compression issues for many years to come.
I decided to use the drill and fill technique to reinforce the core, then build up the depressed area so it was flush with the old level. I drilled holes in the depressed area, laid out on 1" centers as someone else suggested, using a piece of peg board. Next, I injected West epoxy with a syringe. Most of the holes just took the amount of epoxy to fill the hole, but some took whole syringe fulls. After the epoxy soaked in and hardened, I came back and "topped off" all the holes. Based on stomping and tapping with a hammer, I feel the result is a really strong structure. Next I hired a fellow to build the surface back up using glass mat, roving, and cloth. He finished the area with gelcoat. The final result seems really, really strong. I doubt there will be any compression issues for many years to come.
Attachments
The final step was to replace the teak "covering" over the compression post. Since the compression post was now effectively about 3" wider than the old post, I couldn't simply reuse the old covering; I had to have new covering made. After considerable searching, I located Wodshop102 of Key Largo, Fla who was able to supply the teak cut to size at reasonable cost. THe teak is plantation grown and very pretty.
I attached the teak with wood screws in countersunk holes which were filled with teak plugs. The plugs were coated with varnish to "glue" them in place. The next day I came back and knocked off the excess plug with a chisel and sanded everything smooth. I then applied a couple of coats of teak oil and called it good.
The new teak is a bit lighter than the old oxidized teak, but still looks good (IMHO).
I attached the teak with wood screws in countersunk holes which were filled with teak plugs. The plugs were coated with varnish to "glue" them in place. The next day I came back and knocked off the excess plug with a chisel and sanded everything smooth. I then applied a couple of coats of teak oil and called it good.
The new teak is a bit lighter than the old oxidized teak, but still looks good (IMHO).
