Potayto potahto. Or even tater. Either way we said things our mothers wouldn’t have been proud to hear.Correction.... @Kermit was cussing.... I was cursing and @Crazy Dave Condon was making muffled but frantic sounds from inside the boat.
H260 Centerboard uphaul force?
- Thread starter Jeff Gray
- Start date
Thanks guys for the info. I’m relieved to hear that it isn’t unusual of to have some difficulty getting it back in. Yes, Dave, I am doing it in the water, which definitely presents its own set of challenges.
My plan for next time is to test fit the bracket only first, just to verify it’s not an alignment problem and maybe get a look at whatever the interference is (as well as I can anyway underwater!)
Assuming it’s just a matter of force, I’ll get it as far as can like last time, then slide a 4 or 5 inch piece of pipe over the threaded rod, and then use a washer and 3/4” nut on the rod to haul up on the bracket. Should be able to generate as much force as necessary this way. I figure I’ll take a few turns, swim underneath and wiggle/tap/push/etc, go back up and take a few more turns, and so on, until it fully seats itself in the trunk slot. Any other ideas?
As for the weight, I think my estimate of 200 lbs was on the high side. I carried it up the ramp and laid it down by myself. I don’t think I could do that with 200lbs. It might only be 100-110, like you say, Dave, and it’s just the awkwardness of carrying it that makes it seem much heavier. I was under the impression from previous posts/comments that it should only be about 60lbs, so even at 110, it’s heavier than I expected!
As for water penetration, I don’t see any evidence of it. The paint/gel coat is worn at the bottom of the leading edge, but there no core exposure anywhere that I can see. No soft spots or cracks. The thing feels solid as a rock...
Finally, another question: there are two holes each for the main pivot pin and the roller pin. I assume this is because the same bracket is used on different boats. Mine was installed with the main pin in the lower hole. Am I right in thinking this is wrong?
Thanks,
Jeff
My plan for next time is to test fit the bracket only first, just to verify it’s not an alignment problem and maybe get a look at whatever the interference is (as well as I can anyway underwater!)
Assuming it’s just a matter of force, I’ll get it as far as can like last time, then slide a 4 or 5 inch piece of pipe over the threaded rod, and then use a washer and 3/4” nut on the rod to haul up on the bracket. Should be able to generate as much force as necessary this way. I figure I’ll take a few turns, swim underneath and wiggle/tap/push/etc, go back up and take a few more turns, and so on, until it fully seats itself in the trunk slot. Any other ideas?
As for the weight, I think my estimate of 200 lbs was on the high side. I carried it up the ramp and laid it down by myself. I don’t think I could do that with 200lbs. It might only be 100-110, like you say, Dave, and it’s just the awkwardness of carrying it that makes it seem much heavier. I was under the impression from previous posts/comments that it should only be about 60lbs, so even at 110, it’s heavier than I expected!
As for water penetration, I don’t see any evidence of it. The paint/gel coat is worn at the bottom of the leading edge, but there no core exposure anywhere that I can see. No soft spots or cracks. The thing feels solid as a rock...
Finally, another question: there are two holes each for the main pivot pin and the roller pin. I assume this is because the same bracket is used on different boats. Mine was installed with the main pin in the lower hole. Am I right in thinking this is wrong?
Thanks,
Jeff
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Yes, I did that. Especially important since I'm doing it underwater. LOL!
Next time, though, I'm going to use normal gray duck tape type duct tape. Yesterday, I used "Gorilla Tape" duct tape. I figured it would be a good idea because it's suuuuper sticky. But, it also has some thickness to it. I don't think that was the ultimate root cause of my tight fit problem, because it's really not THAT thick, but it didn't help any! I'd guess that it's 3-4 times as thick as regular grey duct tape.
Next time, though, I'm going to use normal gray duck tape type duct tape. Yesterday, I used "Gorilla Tape" duct tape. I figured it would be a good idea because it's suuuuper sticky. But, it also has some thickness to it. I don't think that was the ultimate root cause of my tight fit problem, because it's really not THAT thick, but it didn't help any! I'd guess that it's 3-4 times as thick as regular grey duct tape.
Gorilla Tape is tough stuff. I also use it to protect my fruit trees from bucks during rut season. Works great for that purpose. I just wrap the trunk.
Hahaha
I came upon that by accident. A buck and shredded one of my 10-year old pecan tree's trunk. So I pieced the dangling strips of bark back in place and taped them hoping they would graft back in place. They did!...That was five year's ago and the tree s doing very well. and the buck has since left the tree alone... but then he started rutting on my persimmon tree.. so I taped that one too and so-on and so-on. When I ran out of gorilla tape, I tried some generic gray duct tape but the deer did not seem as put-off by that as the thick gorilla tape so now I tape all of my young tree's trunks with gorilla tape. A secondary benefit is that it keeps the yellow-bellied sap suckers from pecking so many holes in my tree's bark.
Ow I have heard it all. Good idea. Lime around the trees they do not like either. For what it is worth using Behr paint specifically for decks in the past two seasons, no mud diver bees anymore.
Here’s an update... the centerboard has been reinstalled successfully and she’s been sailed a few times. The problem has not yet really been fixed. The centerboard bracket was incorrectly drilled for the roller pin, with the hole on one side plate a bit higher than on the other side plate (see pic). The result is that the roller rubs (hard!) against the side plate where the hole is higher, which creates quite a bit of drag. For now I just installed a pair of stainless washers between the roller and the side plate to create a thrust bears of sorts. The tension on the uphaul is still very high, but now that know all is basically ok and nothing is going to break I don’t mind having to heave on it.
Attachments
Long term my plan is to drill/grind the side plate holes out to 3/4” diameter raising one side a bit and lowering the other side a bit so that the pin is parallel to the top plate. I’ll turn a new roller with a 3/4” bore, and a slightly shallower groove, and replace the 5/8” pin with a 3/4” pin. But that’s a problem for another day...
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