H26 Proposed Reef Configuration

Sep 21, 2020
124
Hunter 26 Lake Mead
I was discussing a new reef configuration with Crazy Dave about a month ago, but then was distracted by some motor issues so I will continue here.

After reviewing several designs, I am proposing a double reef line configuration for the following reasons:
I believe that simple is better, two short lines that are not interdependent seems more reliable to me
Two short lines result in less friction than a single line through multiple blocks and cringles
The leverage/effort required to reef is halved

I am assuming that there will be no situation that would require that a reef line would need to be winched. In medium wind, the sail comes down easily, in high winds, I would heave-to before reefing. This assumption may be wrong, comments here are very welcome.

My proposed design is shown in my rather scribbly attached diagram. It does not show it but each reef line is attached at an eye strap on the far side of the boom. The tack reef line goes through a block and along the mast to a cam cleat, the clew reef line does pretty much the same in the opposite direction. Since this is a trailerable boat, there is an advantage to having no lines leave the boom. Since the cam cleats are near each other, reefing should be quick and not confusing.

I plan to implement this for the 2nd reef only, since the most aggressive reef would be made when I would least like to leave the cockpit.

The only concern that I can come up with is - might there be a situation where the boom would be in a position where the reef lines would be inaccessible.

All comments are welcome,

Randy
 

Attachments

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
7,999
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Either place the tack and clew line cleats at the mast, or run the lines back to the cockpit..... why??? You can use a winch if you need it... but mainly... I don't think you're going to like opposing cleats on the outboard end of the boom where it's difficult, and unsafe to operate. Even if you don't use a winch, you need the length of the boom to "sweat" the clew line to get enough tension. Sweating the tack reef line is unnecessary, since the halyard can handle that. That's why so many people use a ram's horn for the tack, and a horn/jam cleat for the clew... and simply engage the auto pilot, drop the halyard to a marked point, and walk to the mast, set the tack and then adjust the clew line by sweating it. Takes like 15 seconds. That's how I've had my boat set up for many years.... I can't imagine struggling with those lines on the end of the boom, reach up, no stable hand hold.... no, not for me. I'll take my chances at the mast where I'm inside the shrouds and have a huge pole to clip on to...This is how mine is rigged.

If I were going to rig it to stay in the cockpit.... I'd do it like below. Instead of sweating the clew line you can employ the halyard winch.

If I were you, I'd try rigging it the single line system....and if you weren't happy, just add another turning block at the mast base for the second line. I like this diagram for that:

and here's one I'll throw in because I think it's just cool.
 
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Feb 20, 2011
7,990
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
The only concern that I can come up with is - might there be a situation where the boom would be in a position where the
That's certainly one.
Another is that your diagram shows the clew is basically being pulled aftwards, and not down very much at all.
Instead of terminating the clew reef at the cringle, go the extra step and route it down to the boom after going through the cringle. Tie it off with a running bowline.
Joe's right. Invest in more hardware and bring the lines back to the cockpit.
 

Ted

.
Jan 26, 2005
1,254
C&C 110 Bay Shore, Long Island, NY
That's certainly one.
Another is that your diagram shows the clew is basically being pulled aftwards, and not down very much at all.
Instead of terminating the clew reef at the cringle, go the extra step and route it down to the boom after going through the cringle. Tie it off with a running bowline.
Joe's right. Invest in more hardware and bring the lines back to the cockpit.
Re-read the original post. He has the end of each reef line attached to an eye strap on the far side of the boom.
 
Feb 20, 2011
7,990
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
Re-read the original post. He has the end of each reef line attached to an eye strap on the far side of the boom.
It does not show it but each reef line is attached at an eye strap on the far side of the boom.
Ah yes. Thank you. My eyes always glaze over when reading long-ish posts.
As long as the eye straps dont pull out, that part is "acceptable".
Still needs access to the line, so route it all back to cockpit.
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
The only concern that I can come up with is - might there be a situation where the boom would be in a position where the reef lines would be inaccessible.
Based on your diagram and this line drawing of the H26 I would point out that with the “controls” well down the boom - maybe at the mainsheet connection point, the arc where they would be reachable (safely) from the cockpit would be fairly small. That leaves you with the boom in a close hauled position and likely the sail flogging as you put the reef in. Grabbing the boom or reef control lines would likely cause the sail to power up when you don’t want it to.

Part of your issue is the long distance from the cockpit to mast base location on the H26. Reef control lines lead to the cockpit let’s you put the reef in regardless of where the boom is in its arc.

Wave action and boat traffic don’t always let you choose the optimal boom angle. With the “cleats” on one side of the boom you have halved your options. :)

9D46B004-B01B-4132-B379-999293E9708B.jpeg
 
Jul 19, 2013
384
Pearson 31-2 Boston
You should not mount any hardware on the aide of the boom that you can avoid, as during an accidental jibe the eye strap on the side of the boom can change a head bang from a bruise to a skull fracture or worse. So the common solution to terminate a reefing line on the boom, is to bring it down from the clew ring, around the boom, then securing to itself with a bowline. No hardware needed, just a slit in the sail foot if not loose-footed.

Definitely bring the reefing line to the gooseneck end of the boom, however you may be surprised the effort required to properly trim in the reefing line, thus many boats even this size will have a winch. Most likely you can sweat the line adequately to get the clew down to the boom.

I am not sure why you'd bother with a control line at the reef tack, versus using the traditional gooseneck hooks.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
For the record as a dealer for Hunter, I was involved when the boat was being designed, introducing the boat at various shows on the east coast and the top dealer for sales. I use to demo and race this boat in all types of weather and seas to include coastal and lake.
This is a water ballast boat and is hands on in heavy airs paticularly when sailing solo. The original mast and boom came from Z Spar and is designed with two hooks at the front of the boom which to reef forward with the clew and an internal line leading thru the boom exiting out the forward end with a lever to secure that line which sometimes gave way. I found that going forward to the cabine coach roof or companionway area to reef was unsafe sailing solo without any control of the mainsheet. Therefore with one continous line for reefing thru several curved base turning blocks tied off to a cleat was the way to go staying at the helm. Otherwise an inexpereinced or experienced sailor might have alot of difficulty; Food for though.
 
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Sep 21, 2020
124
Hunter 26 Lake Mead
Thanks everyone for your inputs.Not placing hardware on the side of the boom for safety was a good point. Using a running bowline was great advice as well. I disagree with going to the mast. On most boats you walk the side deck fwd then, with the shrouds between you & the water, one step to the top and you're at the mast, pretty safe. On the H26, you must step directly to the top of the boat from the cockpit, nothing between you and the water and nothing stable to hold onto, I consider this unsafe sailing solo especially if conditions are worsening.
 
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Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
I was discussing a new reef configuration with Crazy Dave about a month ago, but then was distracted by some motor issues so I will continue here.

After reviewing several designs, I am proposing a double reef line configuration for the following reasons:
I believe that simple is better, two short lines that are not interdependent seems more reliable to me
Two short lines result in less friction than a single line through multiple blocks and cringles
The leverage/effort required to reef is halved

I am assuming that there will be no situation that would require that a reef line would need to be winched. In medium wind, the sail comes down easily, in high winds, I would heave-to before reefing. This assumption may be wrong, comments here are very welcome.

My proposed design is shown in my rather scribbly attached diagram. It does not show it but each reef line is attached at an eye strap on the far side of the boom. The tack reef line goes through a block and along the mast to a cam cleat, the clew reef line does pretty much the same in the opposite direction. Since this is a trailerable boat, there is an advantage to having no lines leave the boom. Since the cam cleats are near each other, reefing should be quick and not confusing.

I plan to implement this for the 2nd reef only, since the most aggressive reef would be made when I would least like to leave the cockpit.

The only concern that I can come up with is - might there be a situation where the boom would be in a position where the reef lines would be inaccessible.

All comments are welcome,

Randy
I don't know how to get you to my post but if you look up H260 single line reefing you will see on #88 my system. It works really well and it's effortless.
 
Feb 20, 2011
7,990
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
you will see on #88 my system.
 
Nov 10, 2017
258
Hunter Legend 260 Epidavros
I have no knowledge of any other in the Hunter range so I really can't comment other than to pass on my experience of making mine into a single line reefing system.
I have no pin but a plate with a thumbscrew which pushes the plate against the track and this shuts the gate off to prevent the sliders from exiting the track.
I'm not sure of your concern regarding the stacking, they stack regardless of manual or a reefing line system? But I also made a stack bag system to make it all worthwhile.
 
Feb 20, 2011
7,990
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
I'm not sure of your concern regarding the stacking,
Not concerned at all. I was only pointing to your referred post for @CaptainRan .
At least I thought I was referring to your post w/pictures. Something may have gotten turned around in my link to your specific post. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Ah, your post is further down the page. That's @isaksp00 's at the top of the page.
 
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Sep 21, 2020
124
Hunter 26 Lake Mead
I couldn't just read #88, I went through all 5 pages of posts. It's kinda nice to see that there are always differing opinions. By the way, does your outhaul go to the mast and then all the way back to the cockpit?
 
Sep 21, 2020
124
Hunter 26 Lake Mead
Thanks for taking the time to locate GBGraham's thread.
 
Feb 20, 2011
7,990
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
By the way, does your outhaul go to the mast and then all the way back to the cockpit?
My outhaul goes about 3/4ths forward along the boom to a cleat.
But I'm guessin' you were asking GBGraham?
 
Sep 22, 2018
1,869
Hunter 216 Kingston
@CaptainRan

It would seem your primary issue is reluctance to go to mast to either reef or adjust outhaul. That reluctance seems perfectly reasonable given the layout of the H26 :)

I might be wrong but the only viable solution it seems is for you to rig all of your sail controls to allow whatever adjustments you require from the cockpit.

Of course you could consider purchasing a bigger boat ;)
 
Jul 19, 2013
384
Pearson 31-2 Boston
When daysailing I find I rarely feel the need to adjust the output after raising sail. While racing, yes often.