H26 On Boat Stands

[BrianW]

In the next few weeks, I'm going to do some bottom work on my H26. I plan on replacing the centerboard uphaul line and applying bottom paint. I also will have to completely remove the CB bracket to weld on a new CB bracket bolt nut. I plan on doing the work in a boatyard and will have the boat lifted onto stands. I have a few questions:
(1) What is the minimum height above ground should the boat be placed on stands to remove the CB?
(2) How many stands? (I've seen photos with 8 stands)
(3) Are there specific spots the stands should go..... or can they go anywhere the side bunks contact the hull?
(4) While the boat is on the stands, is it stable enough for me to board the boat and do work in the cabin (removing centerboard bracket bolt and re-attaching CB)? Thanks in advance! BrianW

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Brian;

Remember the weight of the 26 dry in 3,000 pounds and when on the trailer, the boat is supported by bunk boards with four stalks or supports on each side. Then think about the support of the boat stand which basically is flat and only supports the boat at that contact point.

For the record, four stands alone is not enough and you will see the hull indent itself. I would urge on precaution the use of 8 stands to distribute the weight. Make sure the stands are chained together sideways two at a time like you see in a boat yard to prevent them from kicking out. Use of rope or line tied tight is an alternative. Pick a place where the hull is thick and this can be determined by rapping it determined by sound. Never put that stand in the area where the water ballast tank lid is or it could cause separation and require repair. Carpet the stands so bare wood or metal is not touching. Use of a bow stand is encouraged. As to height, that will determine but if you are an old fart like me, higher up is better.

No children should be around. Period!!! As for the centerboard line, no larger than 7/16 and if you use 1/2, you will be cursed. Ok I hope this helps and if you have any additional questions, send me an email. I did this for a living with the 26 and 260.

 

[MABell]

Helpers

You should have two helpers.
One inside to remove the bolt holding the CB in place.
And another helping you outside when it come loose.
It's heavier than you think.

 

[BrianW]

MABell, so is it ok to board the H26 while it's on the stands? Thanks, BrianW

 

[MABell]

YEP

I think someone will have to. As I recall there is a bolt under the table\compression post that will need to be dug out from the 5200 then removed. Then the CB bracket will drop out of the CB well. Not a horrible experience, and a good time to re-apply bottom paint in the CB well area.
Be sure to re-apply the caulk after re-assembly, as it may leak.
I'm not sure if I've used re- enough, so re-plenish the beer often.

 

[BrianW]

MABell, removing the CB bracket is not gonna be a piece of cake. I'm gonna have to cut/grind off the CB bracket bolt head. Either the bracket nut weld broke loose, or the bolt threads corroded and won't engage the threads. The bolt just free spins without loosening. I plan on doing the bolt head demolition before the lift. BrianW

 

[Rick Webb]

You Picked a Good TIme of Year to Getit Done

No chance of jamming something between the nut and the bracket?

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

If the bolt is turning around, I bet the welded nut has broken loose. Brian is smart to take out that bolt head which is what I would do. It is ok for a person to go inside while the boat is on stands but suggest that no one be around for added safety until the person is in place to work on loosening the bolt. As for the centerboard, place a foam or something on the ground to rest the bottom of the centerboard on and when taking out the bracket, wiggle the centerboard sideways which will help tremendously while pulling down. I use to do this myself alone with an employee in the boat. Make sure you tie a messenger line to the line and replace with 7/16, not 1/2 line as some have suggested.

 

[BrianW]

Thanks to everyone for their input! Rick, I used a thick paint scraper (like a small pry bar) to jam under the bolt head to see if the bolt would tighten or loosen with upward pressure applied. No luck. I'll probably jam something thin and flat under the bolt head to protect the metal plate surrounding the bolt from the grinder/cutter. I'll also try to borrow a welding tarp to cover the area to protect against sparks and flying hot metal.BrianW

 

[MABell]

Yikes.
OK, a bit more involved than it could be.
Can you get at it with a grinder?
Drill it out? It's a large SS bolt. Going to be hard.
Glad I don't live near by

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

suggest drilling out the head of the bolt while holding the bolt in place with vice grips or that sized wrench.

 

[BrianW]

MABell, it's a whopper!...... 3/4". I'm prepared to try both grinding and cutting. Not enough room to get a cutoff disc under the head and cut the shank. BrianW

 

[kbrown1593]

Fortunately the keel bolt came out without any problem on my H26. To get the bracket to drop I had to put a jack under the end of the keel and a 2x4 between keel and bottom of boat about half way up the keel. You might try this to apply pressure as you turn the bolt.

 

[kbrown1593]

I lifted mine just enough to get it off the trailer and placed it on stands.. I would recommend two at stern bulkhead two at each sling location and a bow stand. This allowed me to reach the bottom of boat easily while on my back and allowed enough room yo drop keel. I replaced my keel rigging with Samson MLX Double Braid 7/16". It has a breaking strength of 9500 lbs. The strongest line I could find with the least stretch.

 

[BrianW]

I've seen references to sling locations, my H26 had no markings that I know of. How do you determine the sling locations? BrianW

 

[kbrown1593]

My 26 had stickers under rub rail. You can locate by ringing the hull. The sling locations are very solid. They are close to the ends of the boards on the trailer.

 

[Rick Webb]

I Was Thinking on the Other Side

A long screwdriver or something similar between the nut that is broken free of the weld and the bracket under the boat.

I think with the centerboard lowered you can see up in the well to the bolt and bracket.

Might be best done while still in the slings.

 

[BrianW]

Rick, with the CB down, would I be able to see and even put a wrench on the nut? If the weld is broken, could I remove the nut from the bottom?

 

[Rick Webb]

I Think You Can See it

There is no way you could put a wrench of it however.

Jamming the screwdriver pry bar or whatever you could get in there between the nut and bracket would keep the nut from turning.

 

[BrianW]

Rick, I'll give that a try! Even if I only got a 1/4" of thread by loosening the nut, it might allow me to raise the bolt head enough and have room to cut the bolt shank, instead of mangling the head. Thanks for the idea! BrianW