Going to survey on a 36-2 w/ center board

[AandJ]

Hello,
My wife and I are finally at the point of buying a boat after years of chartering. We've been out on a couple of Pearson 36-2s over the years and have enjoyed the boat. So we are excited about finding one which has been well cared for. We expect to go to survey in a week. Although the boat has been well kept, there signs of deck issues and the rub rail on the starboard side is damaged and significantly cracked. The most significant deck issue (gelcoat cracks) is on the sides of the sea hood (see photo). I've read about the loads from the traveler and associated stress and possible leaks. Maybe a future project. As for the rub rail it seem to have been there for some time and there's no evidence of leaks below. I expect a good fiberglass guy can patch it. As far as purchasing the boat my feeling is to rely on the survey and take things from there. But I wanted to ask overall advice on things to be focused on. I like having advice. I sometime am bad at taking it though.... ;-]. Thanks.
Happy Sails,
Al and Joanna

 

[gundaddy]

When we were looking, we really liked the 36-2 for its nice cabin layout and shoal draft. We saw several in the Annapolis area and the Eastern Shore, but never found one that met our criteria for condition/price. I suspect that most current owners are happy with theirs and not willing to sell. We eventually settled on a Pearson 31.

A good surveyor will be worth his weight in gold. With a mallet and moisture meter, he'll be able to give you a good idea of whether or not the gelcoat cracks are structural or cosmetic.

Given that the cracks in the picture appear to be aligned with the edge of the cabin top, they're most likely an indicator of oil-canning caused by water penetrating the core and rotting/weakening it, allowing the top of the laminate sandwich to flex and crack. A good surveyor will be able to discern how much of the cabin top and decks are wet, and estimate the cost to repair.

Good luck!
=P

 

[AandJ]

Gundaddy,
Thanks for the response. What you're saying about the deck core being softened by a leak makes sense. It brings to mind a rather large repair if that's the case. The cracks extend as significant distance. I wonder if anyone has experience with large deck repairs and if one can expect the results to be acceptable both structurally and cosmetically? I can negotiate the price based on an estimate for the work. But it would be nice to have some confidence this type of repair can be successfully performed.
Regards, Al

 

[NYSail]

I bought a p36-2 with centerboard 9 years ago. The first project we did was a complete deck recore from topside. Decks get wet from deck bedded jib tracks. Recore and deck replacement went great and boat is now better than new. I also replaced the entire rub rail..... Original still available at d & r marine.... We got a good deal when we bought boat and have basically refit the entire thing. Love the centerboard...... Btw took that whole system apart, cleaned, replaced the sole mounted sheeve and thing not cranks effortlessly. Any questions feel free to ask. Good luck

 

[AandJ]

NYSail,

I really appreciate the input. I'm going down to talk with a fiberglass guy today that has looked at the boat to give me an idea what the deck issues are. One of the points he made is that recreating the OEM nonskid surface is not likely due to the fine texture of the Pearson basket weave. The more typically used diamond pattern is what he's recommending. What did you end up with for the nonskid surface? And I happy to hear that the rub rail is still available. This is also something that's needed. I guess this involves removal of the teak toe rail. How much of a job is that? Drill out the hole plugs and remove the fasteners and the the rub rail "easily" comes off? Rather I expect it to be bedded with something that my take some work to remove it. I'll post how things end up.

Happy Sails, Al

BTW - I think I recall seeing a post (by you?) on redoing the CB sheaves. Helpful write up. I have that on the list as a maintenance effort if things go through with the boat.

 

[Ariel]

Al,

We have a P36-2 also in Rock Hall, at The Sailing Emporium. If you do purchase the P36-2 and have questions feel free to e-mail or come by next spring after we return and we can compare notes.

By chance is this boat named or formely named FULL CRY? If so, PM me.

Dave
s/v ARIEL

 

[Ariel]

Al,

I just saw your post to Greg (NYSail) about the rub rail. Some years ago we had the rail replaced on our boat and it was a simple project. (You just write a big check. No, just kidding). Just remove the teak rail and it will come off. We pushed a bead of 4200 between the hull and deck and bolted the rail back on.

Dave,
s/v ARIEL

 

[NYSail]

Al, rub rails are a relatively easy job. Take off old and bend new ones on..... Just follow old footprint. To take wood toe rails off you unscrew from below.... Under the lip of the hull/deck joint there are screws for the toe rails and the nuts for the run rail bolts. Good luck
Greg

 

[AandJ]

Dave and Greg,
Thanks for the replys. It really helps to have some support for a first time boat purchase. We have survey tomorrow. Might be a little chilly but no rain is forcast. I'll let you know how things go. If the purchase goes through I'll have a good list of winter projects. Dave, the big check bit is definatly something that seems to be part of the experience..... ;-] I'll see if I can keep them to a minimum. I'm a sweat equity type. And thanks for the offer for advice. I'd like to stop by in the spring to say hi and for some 36-2 talk. The boat is not named Full Cry. Don't know about the former name.
Happy Sails, Al

 

[AandJ]

We made it through the final steps on the survey and final agreement and now are happy owners of a Pearson 36-2. The survey went reasonably well with no significant new issues. Work on the deck and rub rail we were aware of. I was happy to see that the hull, centerboard, rudder and engine did not have any significant findings and all the other systems check out OK. The surverer did comment that the rudders have been known to be troublesome (I guess as rudders in general can be). The boat’s been on the hard (Long Cove Marina) for a few weeks and the rudder does show a dribble of water from the post.

A few questions, if anyone can comment I'd appreciated it.

• I expect the dribble of water on the rudder maybe water from inside the post slowly draining. Anyone have experience with this and are there actions I should take? I’ll post a picture later.
• I’ll be ordering a rub rail from D & R. How have people handled the shipping for this expensive 38’ long floppy plastic piece? I got a quote in the range of $250.
• I’ve read about replacing/remaking the teak toe rail on one of the posts (NYSail?). Was this just an old poor condition toe rail that needed to be replaced?
• I’ll be removing the sea hood and hand rails for the deck repair in the area. It looks like I’ll need to drill out teak plugs on the hand rails below to access the fasteners, so the top side rails can be removed. Anything to watch for here?
• Any suggestions on how to redo the anti-skid pattern on the Pearson? One of the fiberglass guys suggested just going with the “grit” anti-skid with the comment that the fine basket weave pattern was too hard to duplicate/match.
• The boat does not have a dodger. We’ll want to put one on. Seems these are custom builds. I’ll be looking for someone in Rock Hall I expect. Any recommendations?

Looking forward to getting going on the list of things to do and thanks for the help!
Happy Sails, Al and Joanna

 

[Ariel]

Al,

Congratulations on your new boat!

Now to your questions:
1) The rub rail is shipped in a role. If I remember correctly, it was about five feet in diameter and tied to a plywood pallet. That is probably why the shipping cost is what it is.

2) Removing the teak plugs is an easy operation. Drill a small hole in the center of the plug untill the drill bit hits the bolt under the plug. Carefully screw into the plug a screw about 1 1/2 inch long. The plug will begin to move out when the screw bottoms out on the bolt under the plug. Be carefull not to dammage the hole sides and it will be ready for a new plug when you reinstall the item.

3) I have seen Greg's boat and I could not see the splice in the non skid where he repaired it, so I know it can be done. Greg, I am sure will answer you on how he did it. There is a fiberglass and paint guy in Rock Hall that does excellent work and has matched non skid on all boats including Pearsons. He is Rick Nordhoff (Home: 410 639 7367, Cell: 410 708 1480). He works at Haven Harbor but he and his son work off hours at most of the other marinas around Rock Hall. He is good and a real nice guy. Call him.

4) Our boat had a dodger when we got it and we have had the canvas replaced twice in the past fifteen years. Both times we used Canvas Creations in Annapolis. They also make the frames if needed. Dan Wood is the owner and is very customer oriented. He does a lot of work in Rock Hall and does not charge for the travel time. I highly recommend him. He has a very good eye for making the dodgers and bimini's fit the proportions of the boat. Four of our friends have also used him. His number is 410 267 0333. Tell him that your boat is like Dave and Lois' ARIEL. He is currently making new cockpit cushions as a winter project at a good rate.

5) Where are you going to keep your boat? If you are shopping around, take a look at The Sailing Emporium. The owner is Art Willis. It is a full service marina.

Dave
s/v ARIEL

 

[NYSail]

Al,
Congrats on the boat...... You will love her!

1- my rudder is in pretty good shape with minimal dripping when I pull the boat. There are a couple of items I addressed with the rudder. First on my boat, the rudder tube had a flimsy plastic cover on it (under cockpit helm seat) where emergency tiller goes. Lots of water also goes down there if not sealed. I felt this is bad especially in winter when this freeze. I added a screw down access port I bought from west marine and solves this issue. However when I pull the boat in the winter I vacuum out any water from the rudder post and add a bit of anti freeze. The freezing with ruin the rudder in my opinion as water will seep everywhere.
2- my rub rail was shipped on a tractor trailer in a 38 foot tube. The pieces were 38 feet long each....
3- I replaced my toe rails as old ones where beat up and worn. I actually increased the size which I feel makes the look better and also the feel much stronger. If you are interested in new toe rails, the wood shop that did mine initially screwed up and matched the originals (the shop followed the example I left and not the drawings). They corrected there mistake and last I heard they still have the originals available. However I would suggest increasing size as I did if you are contemplating replacement. Better function and looks!
4-with removal of the hand rails, make sure you label each screw as you remove them. They are all different sizes! Also when I replaced I left the teak plugs off the cabin side interior rails. I figure if they are going to leak I want to see asap and not push water elsewhere. I sanded and varnished holes and they look good.....
5- when I redid my decks I had the original pattern duplicated. Fiberglass guy made a reverse pattern of the original with gel coat and laid it down on the deck. Came out pretty good. Original pattern still available.
6- I'm sure faves guy for the dodger is good.

My wife and I fell in love with this boat as it fits everything we want so for me putting the time and effort (and money) is not a big deal. Dave and Lois use their boat extensively and have done a wonderful job upgrading and keeping her beautiful so of you get a chance check their boat out.

Good luck! Any questions feel free to ask. Like I said I have touched / changed almost every part with the boat.

Greg
Four the Soul

 

[AandJ]

Thanks guys! Your input really helps with the uncertainty of digging into things. I'll be down at the boat Friday to talk with both Dan W. from Canvas Creations and Rick N. on the deck work. Be nice if it warmed up some.

Greg, Your comments on the rudder is what I was thinking. I'll check the post for water (hope it's not ice!!).

Dave, I'm looking at keeping the boat at Swan Creek Marina but have not made a final decision. I'll stop by at Sailing Emporium to talk with them.

Here's shot of the boat and rudder.

Happy Sails, Al and Joanna

 

[NYSail]

Hey nice looking boat!