Garmin GPS to Raymarine S1 autopilot?
- Thread starter Bad Obsession
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Thanks....still, I don't want to go through the frustration of having to wire swap. I was looking at all of the wiring schematics and I am still drawing a blank. I wish that there was a standard color system for the NEMA 0183 connections.
Still, I am so happy that I don't have to make a very long run of wires. I am going to modify the area on my helm where I have the GPS sitting so I will need to get some more teak (ugh....expensive), but the fact that I don't have to buy 3 20' sets of wire to run helps considerably.
Still, I am so happy that I don't have to make a very long run of wires. I am going to modify the area on my helm where I have the GPS sitting so I will need to get some more teak (ugh....expensive), but the fact that I don't have to buy 3 20' sets of wire to run helps considerably.
Two thoughts, I'd try just connecting the wires by twisting them together to determin if it works first. then go for a perminenant connection
I've found that Aspin and MinWax "Gunstock" stain make a passable substitution for teak. Getting a "grain look alike" is the hardes part.
I've found that Aspin and MinWax "Gunstock" stain make a passable substitution for teak. Getting a "grain look alike" is the hardes part.
I'm leaving for two cruise to Panama and will get together when I get back.
edit:
look at
http://static.garmincdn.com/pumac/3307_InstallationInstructions_EN_.pdf
page 7 it has the wiring and colors...
edit:
look at
http://static.garmincdn.com/pumac/3307_InstallationInstructions_EN_.pdf
page 7 it has the wiring and colors...
Okay...so if I read this post right then:
Out = +
In = -
So that means that the + side of the NEMA would be hooked up to the Blue wire. The - side on the controller head would be hooked to the brown wire.
If this is the case I am good to go. I have figured out that I am going to just modify my existing mounts and mount the GPS on the helm. I already have power fun from that area to the switch for NAV COM on my panel (it is now powering a 12V plug that my current GPS hooks to). From there I will connect the power and then run the two wires to the control head.
I have another idea for the fish finder/speed/temperature transducer. It will be mounted on a 2 x 2 that goes to a rail clamp. I will run the wire from there up to the helm. This will mean that I will remove the transducer when not in use (this will save it from fouling and other problems). This is also works because I don't always need to run the depth/speed/temp.
Thank you guys for the help. I am really excited about getting this unit set up for the season!
Out = +
In = -
So that means that the + side of the NEMA would be hooked up to the Blue wire. The - side on the controller head would be hooked to the brown wire.
If this is the case I am good to go. I have figured out that I am going to just modify my existing mounts and mount the GPS on the helm. I already have power fun from that area to the switch for NAV COM on my panel (it is now powering a 12V plug that my current GPS hooks to). From there I will connect the power and then run the two wires to the control head.
I have another idea for the fish finder/speed/temperature transducer. It will be mounted on a 2 x 2 that goes to a rail clamp. I will run the wire from there up to the helm. This will mean that I will remove the transducer when not in use (this will save it from fouling and other problems). This is also works because I don't always need to run the depth/speed/temp.
Thank you guys for the help. I am really excited about getting this unit set up for the season!
I wired the GPS in this week and it is up and working. I also have mounted my transducer on the removable mount. I also have two wires running into the back of the control head for the autopilot with blue and brown wires run into it.
I turned on the autopilot and I turned on the GPS. I can't tell if they are talking. I didn't leave the slip but I tried to set a course and turn the autohelm on. I then told the autohelm to follow the course and it started beeping and said no speed. The next time I said this it said no data.
Not sure how to set the GPS to the Autohelm for sure. I couldn't figure out how to adjust the BAUD rate like someone suggested.
Anyone have any further information to verify, at my slip, that I have communication? Anyone know how to switch the baud rate on the GPS?
I turned on the autopilot and I turned on the GPS. I can't tell if they are talking. I didn't leave the slip but I tried to set a course and turn the autohelm on. I then told the autohelm to follow the course and it started beeping and said no speed. The next time I said this it said no data.
Not sure how to set the GPS to the Autohelm for sure. I couldn't figure out how to adjust the BAUD rate like someone suggested.
Anyone have any further information to verify, at my slip, that I have communication? Anyone know how to switch the baud rate on the GPS?
Bad obsession - sounds like you have it miss wired. According to the garmin manual it should be wired as follows:
Nmea in on auto pilot Blue wire from garmin is positive, black wire from garmin is negative (nmea out from garmin)
Nmea out on auto pilot Positive goes to brown and negative goes to the same black as above (nmea in to garmin). this is for Port 1 in and out
You only have to do the nmea in to the autopilot to have the garmin send course info to the autopilot. Don't worry about the nmea out of the autopilot unless you want the garmin to receive other info that would be coming into the autopilot via sea talk (not sure if the s1 actually translates sea talk to nmea -the older version st6000 did not do this.)
Once you have done this you can set the communication protocol. The default nmea 0183 setting worked fine on my st6000.
Nmea in on auto pilot Blue wire from garmin is positive, black wire from garmin is negative (nmea out from garmin)
Nmea out on auto pilot Positive goes to brown and negative goes to the same black as above (nmea in to garmin). this is for Port 1 in and out
You only have to do the nmea in to the autopilot to have the garmin send course info to the autopilot. Don't worry about the nmea out of the autopilot unless you want the garmin to receive other info that would be coming into the autopilot via sea talk (not sure if the s1 actually translates sea talk to nmea -the older version st6000 did not do this.)
Once you have done this you can set the communication protocol. The default nmea 0183 setting worked fine on my st6000.
I have the + side of the autopilot as blue and the - side as brown. The ground in the GPS is attached to a ground wire and the GPS is functioning fine.
I just need to figure out if the communication protocol is set right.
I just need to figure out if the communication protocol is set right.
You need to have the nmea negative as the black wire from the Garmin. It serves as power (-) ground as well as nmea negative for all for all nmea connections. The brown wire is the nmea in + (rx) for port 1. The blue wire is correct as nmea out + (tx) for port one You can see this from the diagram on pages 6 and 7 of the manual link listed above.
Even though your gps is working fine it will never talk to the autopilot unless you use the common black wire for the nmea connections.
Once you have this wire the default nmea settings will work.
Configuration of communication is shown on page 51 of the owners manual available here.
http://www8.garmin.com/manuals/GPSMAP431_OwnersManual.pdf
If you need the baud rates etc. after redoing your wiring let me know and I can look up the settings from my garmin 276.
Even though your gps is working fine it will never talk to the autopilot unless you use the common black wire for the nmea connections.
Once you have this wire the default nmea settings will work.
Configuration of communication is shown on page 51 of the owners manual available here.
http://www8.garmin.com/manuals/GPSMAP431_OwnersManual.pdf
If you need the baud rates etc. after redoing your wiring let me know and I can look up the settings from my garmin 276.
What you are saying is that my gound wire that goes to my gps also should be the wire that goes into the - port of the instrument. The blue is the +. What do I do with the brown wire.
The GPS is going directly to my ST6002 control head where it has the NEMA + - spot.
You are saying that my ground wire should to the NEMA - spot in my control head?
The GPS is going directly to my ST6002 control head where it has the NEMA + - spot.
You are saying that my ground wire should to the NEMA - spot in my control head?
That's correct.
You will also still need the black to go to the ships 12v ground. You can just use a short jumper from the nmea (-) to the 12v - that is powering the control head. This accomplishes the same thing since you already have the garmin powering up. The brown wire is only used if you wish information to be sent to the garmin from the autopilot. in which case it goes to the control head out (+) and again the control head out (-) will go to the common black or 12v ground. I will try to diagram for you from mainsails image in a bit.
You will also still need the black to go to the ships 12v ground. You can just use a short jumper from the nmea (-) to the 12v - that is powering the control head. This accomplishes the same thing since you already have the garmin powering up. The brown wire is only used if you wish information to be sent to the garmin from the autopilot. in which case it goes to the control head out (+) and again the control head out (-) will go to the common black or 12v ground. I will try to diagram for you from mainsails image in a bit.
Here is a doctored version of the control head with the garmin wiring.
Hope this makes it clearer. Good luck!
Hope this makes it clearer. Good luck!
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My wiring isn't going to my computer, it is going to my control head. It is on the helm. There is only a + and a - spot in the control head.
It is amazing how confusing they make these darn things. There is a million ways to wire and do things and only one of them is actually right. Then you have to make sure all the instrument settings are set up okay.
Should I be running the Blue wire to the + and have a jumper from the ground to the - on the back of the control head? That would say that I don't need the brown wire.
I did set up for NEMA 0183 from Communications port 1 with the GPS setup.
Should I be running the Blue wire to the + and have a jumper from the ground to the - on the back of the control head? That would say that I don't need the brown wire.
I did set up for NEMA 0183 from Communications port 1 with the GPS setup.
Sounds like you have it right. My system has everything in the control head - no seperate computer. As long as it is marked nmea + - you have it right. You are also right in that the brown is not needed for the autopilot to follow inputs from the garmin.
Sounds good. I did see that the Ground was NEMA out and ground. I just found it strange that there was also a brown wire that was labeled NEMA out.
I wish everything was cut and dry and not so confusing.
It does make me a bit nervous because the NEMA wires are so small and the ground is several sizes bigger. Running a wire from the ground to the NEMA out seems odd. It is also a ground that incorporates the negative for a 12V outlet. Can this damage my control head for the Raymarine?
I wish everything was cut and dry and not so confusing.
It does make me a bit nervous because the NEMA wires are so small and the ground is several sizes bigger. Running a wire from the ground to the NEMA out seems odd. It is also a ground that incorporates the negative for a 12V outlet. Can this damage my control head for the Raymarine?
Matt, by the time you're done, you WILL have a neat wiring diagram and post it for the rest of us, right? 
Did your wiring harness have a grey wire marked nmea out as well as the blue and the brown? From the garmin manual the brown is in + for port one while the grey is out + for port 2. Perhaps your harness was marked incorrectly from the factory.
Forgot to add that I was very nervous doing the ground/nmea - connection as well. Still have some concern about voltage spikes, noise, interference etc. from this system but it does seem to work and saves 4 additional wires in the harness.
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