Frozen locknut on Stuffing box

Terry Cox · May 29, 2016

Ditto ours, too. Soaked two or three times with Liquid Wrench. Tap the flats a few times during this process. Give the Liquid Wrench time to do its work. A Service Wrench of the correct size works the best; one for the box and one for the lock nut. Ours are a different size for each; 2" for the box and 2-1/16" for the lock nut. I also use a ten inch piece of SS tubing that slides over the Service Wrench handle for greater leverage. Pipe wrenches, adjustable wrenches, etc., were just worthless, IMHO.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J3560-Pattern-Service-Wrench/dp/B0025PM1G4

Ken13559 · May 30, 2016

Try pouring some hot water over the nut then follow by liquid wrench or pb blaster. Tapping flat of nut along the way. Thats how i undid mine.

Rich Stidger · May 30, 2016

PB Blaster is the best IMHO. It may take several applications and a day or two to work.

jssailem · May 30, 2016

Mine was stuck due to a no maintenance practice of the PO. Friend suggested taking a piece of rod and using it to tap the edge of the nut to give it a nudge in the right direction. It worked. We got the nut to move and berak loose.

Capt jgw · May 30, 2016

The packing can be changed in the water, but if you've never changed it before in the water is not the ideal place to learn. Cold seawater spraying in your face, water flow trying to push the packing back out, etc. It's much easier on the hard.
And if you're hauled and still can't get the nut loose, maybe you can pull the shaft and take the whole thing out of the boat where you can actually get some tools on it. And of course, once it's out you might as well replace it with a dripless model so you never have to do this again.

Alan Gomes · May 30, 2016

Canonshooternb said:
Thanks guys I will try that. I did try the PB blaster but only gave it an hour. I will apply it a few more times and give it some light taps.

PB Blaster is great stuff, but keep it off of any rubber parts, such as your transmission seals. It's reportedly not good for the rubber.

Skipper · May 30, 2016

Also make sure you're turning it the right way. The locknut likely needs to go clockwise to release, contrary to instinct, and opposite the packing nut.

weinie · May 30, 2016

Put two pipe wrenches on it. Whack the turning wrench gently with a hammer. The metal on metal clang will loosen it.

Ralph Johnstone · May 30, 2016

Canonshooternb said:
Have any of you tried replacing the packing while in the water ?

jssailem · May 30, 2016

If not to worried about the water, adequate bilge - battery - and working pump, you can wrap a rag tightly around the shaft and it serves to minimize the water ingress. I have heard folks dive under their boat and stuff a plastic bag up and around the shaft to provide a weak seal. Remembering to go back in the water and remove the plastic bag is important.
We used the rag method and it was not a scary experience.

Alan Gomes · May 30, 2016

Canonshooternb said:
That looks like a great way to keep the water at bay. Might have to try that

It is going to vary with the boat, I suppose. On my previous boat (a Catalina 30) and my current boat (an Ericson 26-2) my bilge pump *easily* keeps up with the flow--and my E26 has a very small capacity electric bilge pump. I can take all the time I want changing out my packing. In your case, the first time you do it you may wish to have handy a way of reducing the flow should that prove necessary. But my guess is that it won't.

Stu Jackson · May 30, 2016

Alan's right. The amount of water that comes in is so negligible as to be laughable. If you must, wrap it with a rag.

This is a complimentary article, with a link to Maine Sail's website and types of packing.

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing

If you haven't yet, get a bronze wire brush and treat the threads aft of the locknut, too.

Rich Stidger · May 30, 2016

I would use a bit of waterproof grease like Lubriplate or SuperLube. The locking nut when tightened is going to hold everything from loosening, so I don't think there is a safety concern.

Ralph Johnstone · May 30, 2016

Canonshooternb said:
What do you treat the threads with to keep them free since this is bronze

I agree with Rich's suggestion of Superlube but in addition, undo the locknut once or twice a year to ensure it doesn't freeze in place in spite of the lubricant. All that salt water slopping over the threads can still cause problems.

Stu Jackson · May 31, 2016

Rich Stidger said:
waterproof grease like Lubriplate or SuperLube

I use Lanocote.

Warren Milberg · May 31, 2016

Many years ago when I bought my first boat with an inboard engine, I took a course on diesel engine maintenance called "Diesel Dorks." It was very useful, even today. At one point, the instructors got into packing gland maintenance and the subject of frozen locknuts came up. They said to give the nut a hard whack on one of its flats on the nut (in the right direction) with a ball peen hammer. Some may shudder at the thought. Some years later, I had an aging Cat 27 with a frozen lock nut. I tried all the lubes and blasters, et al, at first. Nothing worked. Then I whacked it with a ball peen hammer. It worked.

Frozen locknut on Stuffing box

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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