need to replace the forward water tank on my 42 passage. would appreciate any advice on the replacement tank as the original one will have to be cut out of the boat because of its size.
forward water tank
- Thread starter tb4sail
- Start date
There has been much posted on this subject that you can look up. One way recommended is to cut open existing tank and put a bladder tank inside it. Chief
speaking from experience, on the older 40's, that tank is baffled and entails a lot of cutting if you are going to do that.
P42 forward water tank
I've got a 1991 P42 with a bad forward tank as well. I'm not deterred by additional cutting to get the old tank out. That's just elbow grease. My bigger concern is the lack of baffling in a replacement bladder tank.
The bow does an awful lot of pitching and heeling. The bladder could probably be successfully secured within the confines of the old aluminum tank. But that's a pretty big area to have water without baffling. I wonder about the free surfaced effect in large confused seas.
Paul
I've got a 1991 P42 with a bad forward tank as well. I'm not deterred by additional cutting to get the old tank out. That's just elbow grease. My bigger concern is the lack of baffling in a replacement bladder tank.
The bow does an awful lot of pitching and heeling. The bladder could probably be successfully secured within the confines of the old aluminum tank. But that's a pretty big area to have water without baffling. I wonder about the free surfaced effect in large confused seas.
Paul
What is the problem with the old tank? what is the tank made of?
If it is a crack or hole in a plastic tank that can be fixed pretty easy in place. Could be a challenge if the leak is on the bottom though.
Think patch with fiberglass or melting the crack/hole with a soldering iron.
If it is a crack or hole in a plastic tank that can be fixed pretty easy in place. Could be a challenge if the leak is on the bottom though.
Think patch with fiberglass or melting the crack/hole with a soldering iron.
these tanks are aluminium and therefore corrode over time- i suspect his will have pin holes throughout
We've sold several of these Ronco roto-molded tanks for this boat with success:
http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=42&c=10&p=52259
http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=42&c=10&p=52259
Dave,
you nominated the waste tank- TB4sail is talking the forward water tank- 2 VERY different beasts!
you nominated the waste tank- TB4sail is talking the forward water tank- 2 VERY different beasts!
Thank you for all the input....Much discussion little action taken on a complex and challenging repair.. Think ill cut the largest opening possible on the top and look for a spray/paint on solution ...let you all know final results thanks
i had decided this to be my best course of action, but cant find a suitable compound to use that will give fully potable water- look forward to the results of your research.
might want to check this out, haven't been able to find out if it an exterior or interior coating..
Rhino Certifications
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Rhino Product Certifications
U.S.A. Certifications
ACI 350.2R-04 (containment of hazardous materials)
ASTM E-84 Class A (standard test method for surface burning characteristics)
CAFO 40 – 412 (secondary containment)
FAC 62-762.501 / SSPC-TU2 / NACE 6G197 (Florida storage of hazardous waste and environmental secondary containment)
FDA 21 CFR 175.300 and 177.1680 (incidental food contact)
NSF 61 (potable water)
SSPC 40 – CFR 112 & 264 (oil pollution)
GREENGUARD and GREENGUARD Gold Indoor Air Quality Certifications (DuraTite 2.0)
OR go with the epoxy paint.l Only problem is finding a good one that does not use an acid etch pretreat on the aluminum,
Rhino Certifications
\
Rhino Product Certifications
U.S.A. Certifications
ACI 350.2R-04 (containment of hazardous materials)
ASTM E-84 Class A (standard test method for surface burning characteristics)
CAFO 40 – 412 (secondary containment)
FAC 62-762.501 / SSPC-TU2 / NACE 6G197 (Florida storage of hazardous waste and environmental secondary containment)
FDA 21 CFR 175.300 and 177.1680 (incidental food contact)
NSF 61 (potable water)
SSPC 40 – CFR 112 & 264 (oil pollution)
GREENGUARD and GREENGUARD Gold Indoor Air Quality Certifications (DuraTite 2.0)
OR go with the epoxy paint.l Only problem is finding a good one that does not use an acid etch pretreat on the aluminum,
See posting: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=163421
If you have clear access to the top of the this tank and the tank 'top' can be easily cut into, you can cut large access holes, repair the 'inside' of that tank with structural epoxy and cloth (building a tank inside the OEM tank) and then 100% coat the insides of the repair/new tank with a 'low amine' epoxy specifically used / certified for use with 'potable' water. For what you cut out your tank top, simply have new and larger plates made, add 'studs' the to lips of the old tank and bolt down new closures. One hell of a lot cheaper than a new tank ... but IF and only IF youre handy and can DIY with metal and epoxy work. If you have good working clearance, you dont have to remove the OEM tank.
If you have clear access to the top of the this tank and the tank 'top' can be easily cut into, you can cut large access holes, repair the 'inside' of that tank with structural epoxy and cloth (building a tank inside the OEM tank) and then 100% coat the insides of the repair/new tank with a 'low amine' epoxy specifically used / certified for use with 'potable' water. For what you cut out your tank top, simply have new and larger plates made, add 'studs' the to lips of the old tank and bolt down new closures. One hell of a lot cheaper than a new tank ... but IF and only IF youre handy and can DIY with metal and epoxy work. If you have good working clearance, you dont have to remove the OEM tank.
Hello, I just wanted to add a photo of the access hole I cut in the top of my tank to clean out the loose corrosion and sediment. As you can see I hit one of the baffles. By doing that I was able to clean out both areas of the tank. I was able to bend the edge of the baffle down and then cut it off to get good access to both sides.
At this point our tank is not leaking so just cleaning it was the reason I cut the hole.
Dean
At this point our tank is not leaking so just cleaning it was the reason I cut the hole.
Dean
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Hello all!
I started the dreaded project today! In less then 3 hours I had the bow water tank on the dock!
Now the real job starts installing the new one starting tomorrow. I will keep you posted as I get it back in.
But here are some photos of the progress!
Dean
I started the dreaded project today! In less then 3 hours I had the bow water tank on the dock!
Now the real job starts installing the new one starting tomorrow. I will keep you posted as I get it back in.But here are some photos of the progress!
Dean
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I picked up the new tank yesterday. I had the tank dimension changed some so I can get it into the forward cabin. The door to the cabin is only 17 1/2" wide without the frame and the original tank is 19" tall so that was one size I had changed. I also found that the top of the tank did not get close to the hull. Like 3 1/2" on each side. So I had that number changed by adding 2" to each side. Also you will see the original tank had a angled corner on top. We think it was just there to angle the fill and vent fittings. So with screw in fittings now I can add them when the tank is in place. I hope that with the changes the capacity is still 65 gallons. I will find out when I fill it up.
It will be a few days before I get it in. The platform that it sits on needs to be rebuilt first. The plywood under it is gone! And the bottom of the bulkhead is rotten also. So today is a run to the lumber yard and to pickup fiberglass and resin.
Dean
Also in the one photo you can see thru the tank and see the two baffles.
It will be a few days before I get it in. The platform that it sits on needs to be rebuilt first. The plywood under it is gone! And the bottom of the bulkhead is rotten also. So today is a run to the lumber yard and to pickup fiberglass and resin.
Dean
Also in the one photo you can see thru the tank and see the two baffles.
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P42 forward tank photos
Dean,
AWESOME JOB! Thanks so much for the photos and taking the time to share your process with the rest of us. I suspect that I won't be the only one to follow in your footsteps.
A couple questions (so far).
1. If the height of the tank was 2" greater than the forepeak doorway, how did you get the tank out intact?
2. What is the name and contact info on your new tank fabricator? Do you (or the fabricator) have the exact dimensions or drawing for the new tank?
Again, thanks for sharing,
Paul
Dean,
AWESOME JOB! Thanks so much for the photos and taking the time to share your process with the rest of us. I suspect that I won't be the only one to follow in your footsteps.
A couple questions (so far).
1. If the height of the tank was 2" greater than the forepeak doorway, how did you get the tank out intact?
2. What is the name and contact info on your new tank fabricator? Do you (or the fabricator) have the exact dimensions or drawing for the new tank?
Again, thanks for sharing,
Paul
Hi Paul. I did not take the tank out in one piece. I think in the photo you can see I cut it about 18" from the stern end that way both parts would make it out the hatch. And I'm sorry I did not say that I had the tank made by Dura-weld in Lk Worth FL. I had given them the factory print and then we changed it to my specs. I also gave them a deposit to start a mid ship tank. I mite as well get it all done and not worry!
Dean
http://www.dura-weld.com/index.htm
Dean
http://www.dura-weld.com/index.htm
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Dean, Thanks for the great info. I currently don't have any water tanks issues, but it's time to inspect them. I've already replace my waste tank.