Epoxy resin as a wood ahesive?

emergpa1 · May 18, 2014

dixiedawg said:
I started removing the trim edge from a rotten bulkhead today. Sadly (and contrary to what I've read) the trim broke into quite a few pieces, despite my best efforts to keep it as whole as possible. Fortunately, I was able to glue the pieces back together relatively well, and I think with a little sanding and refinishing it will be hard to see the damage. Question is, how to reattach the trim to the new bulkhead, when the time comes? It was stapled and glued from the factory, but I don't want to risk using any staples/brads/etc for fear of damaging it again. What I'm considering is, using thickened epoxy resin as an adhesive. Lay a bead of it in the hollow of the trim, then "clamp" the trim pieces to the bulkhead with bungees while they cure. Anybody see a problem with this? Trim reconstruction in progress ...

well, Dixie dog, and I know you have thought of this, but what if you need to take it off again? What about using a less aggressive adhesive.
But better, the woodworker solution is to just be sure you drill your holes in the trim for your brads before you drive them in. Using a small and sharp bit you will not damage the wood.

woodster · May 18, 2014

dixiedawg said:
I started removing the trim edge from a rotten bulkhead today. Sadly (and contrary to what I've read) the trim broke into quite a few pieces, despite my best efforts to keep it as whole as possible.

Fortunately, I was able to glue the pieces back together relatively well, and I think with a little sanding and refinishing it will be hard to see the damage. Question is, how to reattach the trim to the new bulkhead, when the time comes? It was stapled and glued from the factory, but I don't want to risk using any staples/brads/etc for fear of damaging it again.

What I'm considering is, using thickened epoxy resin as an adhesive. Lay a bead of it in the hollow of the trim, then "clamp" the trim pieces to the bulkhead with bungees while they cure.

Anybody see a problem with this?

Trim reconstruction in progress ...

use gorilla glue to repair that and use clamps and you can use the same to install it...the stuff sands very well and wont show as bad the titebond will...and make sure you have so wd-40 around for when you gt it on you skin
spray wd-40 on a rag and wipe it off your skin asap or you will have a new birth make for about 10 days ....you can also use clear silicone to glue it back on the new plywood but i prefer gorilla glue and it is a marine based product it was developed in belgium for the marine wood boat industry

woodster · May 18, 2014

dixiedawg said:
To be honest, I had NOT thought about that. But I'm pretty confident I'll never need to take it off again. Unlike previous owners of this boat, I WILL keep the chainplates bedded.

Also, I'm thinking a very thorough adhesion of the trim to the bulkhead will lend strength to the repaired trim. Maybe keep it from breaking again if it takes a hard whack from something, which I could definitely see happening.

Good tip about pre-drilling for brads! I would not have thought of that.

to add to that advice...if you cut the head of one of the brad nails and put it in the drill and drill the holes with the brad nail you will have the exact size you need with out splitting the wood...this is and old picture framers trick...ya might say old school but it works great

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani · May 18, 2014

woodster said:
to add to that advice...if you cut the head of one of the brad nails and put it in the drill and drill the holes with the brad nail you will have the exact size you need with out splitting the wood...this is and old picture framers trick...ya might say old school but it works great

Old furniture repair man's trick too

But the thought of silicone makes me cringe. I HATE the stuff. Don't allow it on board.. After 30 some years in the furniture repair and refinshing business, and having fought silicone residue all that time, I hate the stuff. Get it on bare wood and you'll never get paint or varnish to stick there again

woodster · May 19, 2014

TSBB 2 said:
Old furniture repair man's trick too

But the thought of silicone makes me cringe. I HATE the stuff. Don't allow it on board.. After 30 some years in the furniture repair and refinshing business, and having fought silicone residue all that time, I hate the stuff. Get it on bare wood and you'll never get paint or varnish to stick there again

you are correct on the silicone thing but i found out when taking my s2 apart that they had use a lot of it in the teak trim in side my boat and was surprised to see it ...it did hold quite well go figure...but as you say it will kill the surface for any thing else

Ken Cross · May 19, 2014

This was all epoxy resin. Used for the finish and for connecting surfaces. Even the fillets are thickened epoxy resin. The final outside coat was polyurethane for UV protection. It seems to hold up to river rocks.
Ken

woodster · May 19, 2014

dixiedawg said:
Woodster, is that Gorilla wood glue any less runny than Titebond? That's the main reason I was looking for another adhesive. Titebond works like a champ, but it'd be pretty messy in this application.

The trim will no longer be a perfect fit to the edge of the new bulkhead, so there will be a lot of voids in there I'd ideally like to fill, especially if I can do so without taking a bath in the adhesive.

Hence the resin idea; I can make that as viscous as I want.

the glue is about the consistency of molasses....just spread some on one side of the glue joint and take a wet sponge and wipe it on the opposing part...place parts together and clamp for about 4 to 6 hrs ...you will get some foaming action in the joint...when it is set up there will be some ooze out ...you can clean that off with a scraper or knife and then scuff the clean up with 150 or 180 sand paper...the stuff takes stain very well if you need to use some for color matching and also take finishing oil or varnish very well ...but again keep some wd40 close for cleaning it off your hands this stuff has replace resorcinol 2 part glue which used to be the wooden boat standard ...very good stuff

hewebb · May 19, 2014

When I bought my Catalina 25 it had the same problem. I used waterproof tight bond. Clean the adhesive interface areas with acetone. I filled the damaged area with tight bond mixed with teak sawdust. I used adhesive silicone to install them. I use teak oil for finish. That was four years ago, they still look good. I have had great success with silicone. Tape all the adjacent surfaces to the adhesive area with masking tape in case the silicone gets pushed out. This will keep exposed areas clear of the silicone. Yes, I know silicone is frowned upon by some sailboat owners, although, several of my sailing friends also use it.

kito · May 19, 2014

It's just trim. Epoxy resin seems overkill. I just reinstalled some trim on my project boat using Osi Quad I bought at Lowes. No need to fill in voids. I applied a small bead on the edge and pressed it on. Very thick and sticky stuff. Remains flexible but can be removed if needed.....with some elbow grease.

Gunni · May 19, 2014

Working with any of the marine epoxies (MAS, West, Raka) is easy. I would want it in the standard water-consistency for ease of assembly. Paint it on with a disposable brush. Assemble the glued sections on waxed paper and secure in place until set. If you need flexibility, West G-Flex is an amazing epoxy. I have not had good luck with the foaming adhesives like gorilla glue. The foaming action expanded the glue joint. Perhaps my clamping skills are wanting.

kito · May 19, 2014

It's just me I reck'n but I have no need for epoxies in places where they are not required. If trim can get damaged then use something that it can be replaced easily. I have pretty much gutted my H30 project boat and thank heaven every piece of trim etc. wasn't epoxied

Brian S · May 19, 2014

Be careful of the Gorilla Glue. It is a requirement that the surfaces to be glued with a polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue be perfectly smooth and mated, and clamped tightly. Otherwise, the GG will foam up, and foamy GG has no strength whatsoever. Gluing trim together like that, I'd probably use a waterproof carpenter's glue. It's thick enough to fill voids in the cracks.

Is epoxy necessary for that? Probably not. Note that epoxy thickened with colloidal silica will have a whitish hue, not transparent. And thickened with wood flour may not be the right color either.

Ken Cross · May 19, 2014

A safety warning for Gorilla Glue

This may seem odd, but if you talk to your local veterinary clinic they will warn you to keep it away from dogs. Dogs will lap it up and then it expands then sets up in their stomach. Expensive surgery if they survive.

A lesson from my daughter's profession.

capta · May 19, 2014

Resorcinol glue is the preferred wood glue for use on boats by any knowledgeable boat builder. Period.

Sailvayu · May 19, 2014

This one made me smile. Every time someone asks about fiberglass repair many say use WEST epoxy yet when asked about using it for wood work few seem to think it is the right thing. WEST= Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique. The stuff was designed for Wood not fiberglass. Just sayin.

BobT · May 19, 2014

Epoxy is great stuff, very adaptable with various fillers & hardener. If you want those trim crumbs to stay there forever, go for it.
I'm not very confident in the Gorilla/polyurethane variants as a wood glue. Brittle stuff. I've had sample blocks shear cleanly with a sharp tap that wouldn't phase an aliphatic (titebond). Resorcinol was the waterproof choice for a couple of generations but its working temperature range is much narrower than epoxy and it is not a gap filler. I use at least 5 gallons of West System every year, 90% as adhesive for wood joints and laminations.
I also like System 3 brand of 5 minute epoxy. It's clear and great for small repairs.

Epoxy resin as a wood ahesive?

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