Engine Oil Drain

Stu Jackson · Oct 12, 2016

If the hose goes to the bottom of the oil pan underneath the engine, then YES! Not so hard. Easier to suck it out than drain into a pan, 'cuz it's hard to make the pan work without getting the outside of the hose all covered with oil. I cobbled together a hose fitting on the end of the hose from my hand pump that fits into that oil drain hose, works great.

markwbird · Oct 12, 2016

If you suck it out run the engine first so that the oil is hot and less viscous. Also, be sure not to swallow any of it and a breath mint afterwards helps a lot.

Stu Jackson · Oct 12, 2016

markwbird said:
If you suck it out run the engine first so that the oil is hot and less viscous.

Good advice, but don't run the engine more than about ten minutes or else the oil is scalding hot. I use a pot holder on the hand pump we use so I don't burn my hand. There are also many different brands of oil removal kits. Check Maine Sail's website, he touts one particular one.

JK_Boston_Catalina310 · Oct 12, 2016

marchem said:
I feel a little silly asking this, but is draining the engine oil on the M25XPB really as easy as uncapping the tube at the front starboard side of the engine and not making a mess? Either draining into a pan or sucking out of the tube should work. Seems too easy.
View attachment 129074

Yup, I used to have an vacuum extractor like the one you get from West Marine or Defender. Worked great but just too big for cruising. So now I just use cheap drill pumps I buy on eBay for about $2 each. I get about 3 oil changes out of each pump.

I run the engine for 10 minutes. Pump out the oil, then put the end of the tube in a zip lock baggie with an oil pad or paper towel in the bag then put the bag with the tube down as low as you can get it in the bilge to gravity drain the rest of the oil.

Good luck

Jesse

Alansails · Oct 13, 2016

We use a vacuum extractor that after we run the engine a few minutes, we stick into the oil dip stick hole and our extractor shows how much oil we have taken out. Easy process and saves cash.

jssailem · Oct 13, 2016

Well your thread motivated me to change the oil on my 4107 Perkins. Sucked the sludge up the dip stick tube. Still messy project. Biggest challenge was the filter. Difficult place to get a container under the filter housing to capure the oil that spilled as I loosened the bolt holding the filter container.
Success was had. Old oil was recycled. New oil was poured into engine. When I started the engine she seemed to purr a little sweeter.

alexco38 · Oct 13, 2016

Loosen the oil filter and then put a ziplock bag over it before spinning it out. "Most" of the oil goes into the ziplock bag. Only Work for spin on oil filter.

Alansails · Oct 13, 2016

Good idea with the ziplock bag or plastic grocery store bag or cut a plastic EMPTY gallon milk jug apart and stick the bottom part underneath. I also use that trick for putting around winches After cutting a hole in the bottom to put over the wince to contain parts and drips of oil/grease etc.

Alansails · Oct 15, 2016

We had no idea how many hours were on the trans when we got the boat so we changed it this year.
I followed someones advice and got the Hopkins tool to prevent spills. Our old fluid looked clean also-just re-assuring!
I agree with the contortions and Beer!

Stu Jackson · Oct 15, 2016

marchem said:
it only took 3 quarts to fill it (spec is 4) even with adding a bit after running for a few minutes. Not sure if there's a quart left behind somewhere, or what. I'll check it again soon and be sure it's ok.

Always like that for me and hundreds if not thousands before you.

marchem said:
Next time I'll just suck it out the top.

Yes, our experience as well.

Try not to reinvent the wheel. That's why we recommend what we do 'cuz we've BTDT.

Good work on your part. Isn't it easier than you thought it would be?

Alansails · Oct 15, 2016

Stu, Thanks as always for your GUIDANCE, We appreciate yours as well as Jesses'.
Our boat only took 3 quarts of oil as well.
Yes, it is easier than what I thought! and dam glad of it!

Stu Jackson · Oct 15, 2016

marchem said:
I've got a long skinny funnel that worked well, but I'm open to better ways of doing the tranny oil.

I just use a funnel, big plastic one from the dollar store with a plastic hose stuck on the bottom of it. Lots a flexibility from above that way and easier to avoid moving the funnel over the dreaded hole while pouring.

Here's some more pointers:

Transmission Fluid 101

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html

There are soooo many similarities in our boats that you may find these helpful, too:

"101" Series - Quick Links to "Popular" Topics includes "Electrical Systems 101"

Alansails · Oct 16, 2016

I went to a chain auto parts store and bought one for less than $5, it screws onto the qt of trans fluid and has a cap on the tube that leads to the spout. It is also a turn on turn off nozzle.

2 OLD PIRATES · Nov 2, 2016

http://www.ezoildrain.ca/apps/store-locator ....... check out these little valves. There great. have one on my oil pan and transmission. Really makes a big difference doing these 2 tasks for winterizing.
Cheers
2 Old Pirates

Siamese · Nov 2, 2016

Yeah, it's a piece of cake changing the oil, particularly on the 310 where you have good access.

Tips (stuff that works for me)
1. Don't just run the engine before sucking the oil out the tube, run it until it comes up to full operating temperature. Hot. That hot, thinner oil is a lot easier to remove. Getting it up to temp while sitting in the slip can take forever, and is annoying to neighbors. I prefer to go for a little boat ride and as soon as I get back to the slip, the engine cover comes off, and all my tools and supplies are at the ready.
2. Protect your interior. Roll up the carpet. Move the cushions. That used oil from a diesel is like liquid coal. The long plastic tube that connects to the vacuum pump can slip and fling oil just about anywhere. If the tube is two pieces, use some duct tape to reinforce the joint where they meet. Have a plan in advance to handle and store that plastic tube that still has oil in it. Coil it up and put it in something so it can't uncoil and fling or drip oil.
3. Plenty of paper towels on hand, and some spray cleaner. You'll need it to clean up any goofs, and drips from the oil filter. Oil change time is a good time to do a general cleaning of the fiberglass in the engine compartment.

Engine Oil Drain

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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