whats the latest and greatest to apply to electrical terminals to prevent corrosion but not interfere with conductivity
electrical terminals/corrosion
- Thread starter CYQK
- Start date
Silicone grease... it is cheaper than "dielectric" grease, but exactly the same stuff. Dow 111 is silicone grease, which is waterproof and is a great product for many uses.
Used to think dielectric was the answer but dielectric grease is actually an insulator
The theory is to make a connection and then put it over the top of the connection
Im looking for a product that i can put on a terminal and then mate it together that will aid in conductivity
Thanks
The theory is to make a connection and then put it over the top of the connection
Im looking for a product that i can put on a terminal and then mate it together that will aid in conductivity
Thanks
Well you could use a product called Noalox. You can get it at HD. It's an anti-oxidant paste used when connecting aluminum wires. Should be what you are looking for.
Attachments
Doc
Yeah your on the right track
Will have to phone the company to see if the product is compatable with the tinned copper and such connections on our boats
The word aluminum when talking about electrical connections is like stepping on a land mine such the need to check
Thanks
Yeah your on the right track
Will have to phone the company to see if the product is compatable with the tinned copper and such connections on our boats
The word aluminum when talking about electrical connections is like stepping on a land mine such the need to check
Thanks
You put clean terminals together with clean wire using the proper tools, assembled dry, then apply a terminal grease if there will be any exposed metal parts...
I rarely use dielectric grease. This is a fair explanation of how these particular conductive greases work. http://sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm In theory if you remove air or water from the mix you won't have oxidation. I have used dielectric grease to water proof ignition systems but never applied it to the electrical connections, only on the boots after the connection was made.
Do you have a favorite?
Thanks,
Sumner
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Tried a lot of them over the years and it depends upon where the terminations are. I like NO-OX-ID for real heavy duty stuff, but it is very messy. I use Silicone dielectric grease, but it NEVER comes off and can make any future labeling very difficult to near impossible, and DeoxIT Shield for small terminal strips, busbars etc.... De-Ox-It Shield is a good product stays clear, not messy and works pretty well..
I do not use anything inside terminals as there is no terminal manufacturer who recommends this.
I do not use anything inside terminals as there is no terminal manufacturer who recommends this.
I Guess I'm From Missouri .............
I've always assembled connectors dry first and then covered all metal (particularly the contact surfaces) with a film of dielectric and finally, assembled. I want the grease between the contacting surfaces where any corrosion may cause problems.
I first started this practice after having the overhead lights on the boat (Frilight Sweden #8777) with the wimpy little switches, fail repeatedly. The switch mechanism is so lightweight that even the most microscopic trace corrosion on the contacts will prevent it from making good contact. I found a little dab of grease on the contacting surfaces meant never failing again (12 years and counting). At the other end of the electrical scale, I also do this with the battery terminal connectors.
Doubtful
................. take any mating terminal connectors, press them together and measure the resistance. Separate the connectors, coat the contacting surfaces with dielectric grease, jam the connectors together again and read the resistance. Repeat this numerous times and note the resistance each time. If you really want to be crude, just coat a couple of wires with dielectric grease and press together .............. no resistance.
I tried this numerous times at the battery terminals at first to ensure I wasn't getting into problems with elevated resistance. There's no change in the resistance. Original terminals still look like new.
Right now, my dielectric grease of choice is SuperLube because it does such a good job of lubricating the head piston/cylinder. If it stands up to this crap , it's not about to slough off of electrical connectors.
................. because when I see absolutes like this, I've just got to see for myself.
I've always assembled connectors dry first and then covered all metal (particularly the contact surfaces) with a film of dielectric and finally, assembled. I want the grease between the contacting surfaces where any corrosion may cause problems.
I first started this practice after having the overhead lights on the boat (Frilight Sweden #8777) with the wimpy little switches, fail repeatedly. The switch mechanism is so lightweight that even the most microscopic trace corrosion on the contacts will prevent it from making good contact. I found a little dab of grease on the contacting surfaces meant never failing again (12 years and counting). At the other end of the electrical scale, I also do this with the battery terminal connectors.
Doubtful
................. take any mating terminal connectors, press them together and measure the resistance. Separate the connectors, coat the contacting surfaces with dielectric grease, jam the connectors together again and read the resistance. Repeat this numerous times and note the resistance each time. If you really want to be crude, just coat a couple of wires with dielectric grease and press together .............. no resistance.I tried this numerous times at the battery terminals at first to ensure I wasn't getting into problems with elevated resistance. There's no change in the resistance. Original terminals still look like new.
Right now, my dielectric grease of choice is SuperLube because it does such a good job of lubricating the head piston/cylinder. If it stands up to this crap , it's not about to slough off of electrical connectors.
Attachments
Ralph,................. because when I see absolutes like this, I've just got to see for myself.
I've always assembled connectors dry first and then covered all metal (particularly the contact surfaces) with a film of dielectric and finally, assembled. I want the grease between the contacting surfaces where any corrosion may cause problems.
I first started this practice after having the overhead lights on the boat (Frilight Sweden #8777) with the wimpy little switches, fail repeatedly. The switch mechanism is so lightweight that even the most microscopic trace corrosion on the contacts will prevent it from making good contact. I found a little dab of grease on the contacting surfaces meant never failing again (12 years and counting). At the other end of the electrical scale, I also do this with the battery terminal connectors.
Doubtful
I tried this numerous times at the battery terminals at first to ensure I wasn't getting into problems with elevated resistance. There's no change in the resistance. Original terminals still look like new.
Right now, my dielectric grease of choice is SuperLube because it does such a good job of lubricating the head piston/cylinder. If it stands up to this crap , it's not about to slough off of electrical connectors.
I am talking about the terminals crimped to the wire not switches or battery lugs etc... I also use Superlube products but their terminal grease (Anti-Corrosion Gel) tends to turn brown.... AMP, Molex and other manufacturers of crimp terminals I know of specifically advise against putting any sort of grease inside the crimp.
Maine, I assume this is because the grease would act as a lubricant between wire and connector reducing friction within the crimp thereby reducing its holding power?
What is the general feeling about those paint on "rubberized" or plasticized or whatever they are coatings vs. dielectric grease as a corrosion preventer?
I have always used GB OX Gard. I brush it on the wire before crimping, wire nuts, or bolting down on to anything. On crimps on the boat I clean off the excess and use liquid electrical tape to seal out air and moisture.
http://www.gardnerbender.com/en/ox-100b
download the spec PDF also.
http://www.gardnerbender.com/en/ox-100b
download the spec PDF also.
Yeah, Dom, liquid tape is what I meant. I was concerned that it might trap ambient moisture and promote corrosion rather than prevent it. Also I haven't seen any that's clear so you can periodically check what's going on under it.
I have never seen it clear either. After using the ox gard I'm very confident about no moisture.