Edson Drive Wheel Replacement

[nfg2u]

I pulled the Edson Drive Wheel off my 35.5 Legend today. There was corrosion around the block on aft portion of the wheel where the cables attach to the wheel. There was more corrosion in the bolts holding the drive wheel together. In the process of removing the wheel there were cracks in the wheel casing itself. I am in the process of talking to Edson now to get a new wheel.

Here are pictures of the rudder post where it enters the cockpit. There seems to be a missing cover that goes on top of the yellow gasket. I do not know what it looks like but you can make out the outline in the sealant on the deck. I have an email into Hunter Owners to see if they know anything.

Also the rudder shaft/post is hollow and seems to be holding water. Is that normal?

Thanks
Steve
I will be replacing the chain and cables as well as the throttle and shifting cables.

 

[kappykaplan]

Can't answer your specific questions, but that is a steering quadrant. I know mine was in pretty rough shape last summer when I had my cockpit sole replaced. The boatyard cleaned it up pretty well before re-installing.

 

[kloudie1]

Drive wheel = http://www.edsonmarine.com/ecatalogs/sail/00023.htm
Steering Quadrant = http://www.edsonmarine.com/ecatalogs/sail/00024.htm
Steve, is the level of the water above the waterline? if so, water is getting in from the top.. get it out and cover the top of the tube.. if the level in the tube is at the waterline, it is likely getting in from the outside or through the rudder and needs investigation

 

[nfg2u]

So it seems after sucking the water out of the rudder shaft, the shaft has been filled at some time with something. anyway, I will try to cap the rudder post when I reassemble .

 

[kappykaplan]

Drive wheel = http://www.edsonmarine.com/ecatalogs/sail/00023.htm
Steering Quadrant = http://www.edsonmarine.com/ecatalogs/sail/00024.htm

Tks, kloudie1.

 

[woodster]

from the looks of that pic of the quadrant i may clean up very well ....find a mechanic shop that has a glass bead blaster and have it cleaned ...that is a lot cheaper than purchasing a new one

 

[nfg2u]

It's cracked at the bolt holes :-(

 

[Dave Groshong]

Here's a sketch from Hunter, it shows a 2 inch plastic spacer in that area; a co-worker who worked at Hunter for 23 years doesn't recognize that yellow piece.

 

[nfg2u]

Thanks, the drawing matches what I am looking at.

 

[Barnacle Bill]

A quadrant for steering is shaped like 1/4 of a round pie. A quadrant for steering is like the whole pizza pie that is round. I am pretty sure you have a quadrant and not a radial.

 

[JamesG161]

from the looks of that pic of the quadrant i may clean up very well ....find a mechanic shop that has a glass bead blaster and have it cleaned ...that is a lot cheaper than purchasing a new one

It looks good to me!
That is standard look as the galvanization thins. All of your pictures of corrosion are not severe enough to do anything IMHO. Blasting it will also remove the zinc. Rust is a good thing if it is not disturbed. Rust is NOT a virus. If it really bothers you, put on a rust neutralizer, then use a spay on galvanizer or Rustoleum.

Make sure the PO has not changed Edson original design material selection. These rudder materials are not normally effected by galvanic corrosion.
At least the galvanizes cable in pict#2 looks good too. The only minor corrosion notable is in the valleys of the wheel. It appears like rain water has been captured there in the past. Standing water on galvanized parts is not good.
Here is a recent picture of mine.

It passed my inspection, as did the 316 SS rudder post that is passive or galvanically isolated. Good Hunter design.
If you have a close up of the helm wheel crack, it might be informative as to the cause.
Jim....

 

[njlarry]

Given the expense and need to custom bore the drive wheel have you considered welding those cracks if they are bad. Also check the idler wheels bracket as the dissimilar metals often rust thru around the bolts. Now would be the best time to repair it if necessary.

 

[nfg2u]

I have not, I will take it to the machine shop today and see if it's repairable. Thanks for the advice.

 

[nfg2u]

The machine shop would not weld the old drive wheel. So some asked about why this one failed. The short answer. I believe that I cracked in taking it apart. The deck cover over the drive wheel had been rotten for some time, I believe that there was excessive corrosion due to the constant moisture in the area just above the wheel. Here are some pics of the wheel and the cover. Also the newly installed wheel.

 

[nfg2u]

The bolts were so corroded that it took a 6 foot pry bar to get them to break loose. Lots of anti-seize was used installing the new wheel.

 

[Broadman]

Not sure if its correct to revive this thread or start anew:

Removed my drive wheel (36 Hunter Vision) this winter and in process of replacing it. Also cracked - almost exactly same condition as above. Interesting on measuring the drive wheel it was significantly (I consider 0.15" to be so anyway) smaller diameter bore than the shaft! I concluded forcing this misfit and tightening this had caused the cracking around the retaining bolt hole; the replacement is bored to several 00's larger and fits snugly.

Now I'm curious - what holds the shaft in place? As it dropped an inch or so when the retaining bolt was removed (before I was able to support the rudder underneath) it seems to me it's entirely held in place only by this bolt? If this is the case it could explain why the drive wheel stop has been digging into the fibreglass - the wheel movement seems to have worn away the UMHW spacer and it has been gradually working lower?

Wondering if I should add 2 (stainless?) washers between the spacer and wheel to eliminate further wear? Or should I simply try to replace the spacer?