Easylock

Steve Dion · Mar 23, 2010

Rope Clutches?

Jorge: Check out Garhauer Marine. The make this stuff at reasonable prices.

If there are machine screws holding your hardware down, then there is an alum. plate embedded in the fiberglass. This would require drill and tapping to secure any new hardware. You can probably use one of the screw holes and just fill the other with caulking. There is no need to epoxy the hole if the new hardware is going to cover up the existing hole.

The triple is $155

www.garhauermarine.com

rardiH36 · Mar 23, 2010

Agree with Steve most likely you've got an aluminum plate under the area where the rope clutches and cabin top winches are. Shouldn't be a problem using a tripple clutch as long as you've got enough space. Important though that you mount/orient so that the halyard still has a straight shot without a bend. Also give consideration if there are other lines that you might want to lead to the clutch. Determine the screw diameter and thread pitch that already mounts the exiting clutch. Then any hardware store will have a matching tap for new SS screws. Cut threads in the top fiberglass and into/through the aluminum plate after first drilling with the matching drill bit for the tap size. On my 1980 Cherubini H36, below the aluminum is a appx 1/2" air gap, then the interior liner. When you drill through the aluminum, the bit will fall suddenly and hit the liner. DON'T drill any further unless you want to see a hole in your ceiling. Go slow and steady when tapping, backing off the tap frequently to clear the cuttings. Once, I was distracted when tapping for a new rope clutch and twisted the tap off center. It broke off in the hole. The tap metal is very hard, but also very brittle. Also use some oil to keep the tapping process lubricated. It really helps. Caulking should be used for all the holes. It helps to put in a bit of a bevel into the cabin top gelcoat at the top of each hole. (Running a larger size drill bit backwards works OK). When you tighten the screw and the bottom clutch face tightens against the cabin top, the caulk compresses into the bevel.

So where do you find $50 self tailing winches? Even beat up used ones are expensive in my area.

sandpiper10471 · Mar 26, 2010

I mounted clutches on my H33 several years ago. I do not recall there being any plate material in the deck anywhere - and I recored just about the whole damn thing. There are raised up rings molded in and they are for mounting things like winches. The have a think piece of plywood molded in over the balsa. I would follow generally accepted procedures for mounting this stuff. i.e. drill out mounting holes then use a bent nail in a drill to route out a cavity in the balsa. Fill with thickened epoxy. Redrill and go through the liner. Drill a one inch hole in the liner. Now you can mount your gear on deck, bedded in compound, and apply backing washers and nuts between the liner and bottom of the deck. You can get little round white "buttons" to fill the holes in the liner and the whole result will be unobtrusive.

BreakingWind2 · Mar 27, 2010

Got the same boat

jorgefife, sent you a private message.

Honeyman · Mar 29, 2010

Jorge, I'm interested in the "salvage yard" you mention. Where exactly is it and how many boats are still available to scavenge? I'd be interested in larger winches, Lewmar and Maxwell 33 or larger, and possible Yanmar engine parts, whisker poles, cleats, ladders, or who knows what. I may call you in the next day or so if no response.

Ed Schenck · Mar 30, 2010

Jorge, it is as Sandpiper describes. You need to bolt through the headliner. You can do as he suggests and countersink the washers and nuts on the inside and then cover. Or as I did with my two deck organizers, just big stainless fender washers and nuts exposed. I am ready to add a starboard side winch and clutch and will do it that way. The look might be offensive to some but to my eye it is fine.

The one winch on my cabin top is bolted through and then has a round teak block glued over the bolts. Came from the factory that way.

Ed Schenck · Mar 31, 2010

Looked for a picture Jorge, no luck. Boat is in Florida, me in Ohio. The caps that "Sand' mentioned can be found in those parts drawers at Lowes I think. Maybe 3/4 to 1 inch, have a slotted ridge to snap into a hole, something like you would use to decorate the end of a metal tube. Ah, here's a company: http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SCP-06100D-KIT/25-White-68-Snap-Caps .

David in Sandusky · Apr 2, 2010

Similar work on an h27

Here is my project on our h27:

http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...7&cat_id=16&aid=7355&page=article&mn=27_75-84

There are no aluminum backing plates on our boat, so I drill-fill-drilled all of the holes and mounted through the liner with fender washers. Then I covered all the ends with a piece of cherry with a teak grab-rail mounted on it.

The liner on our boat is flexible enough to be tightened against the deck without cracking or other issues.

By the way, I got the winch, cheek blocks, and organizer for free from a friendly rigger who kept a grab box of stuff he had taken off other boats.

Ed Schenck · Apr 2, 2010

I remember that David, nicely done. I assume that is your main halyard. I have all the hardware ready to do the same. Just wondering how much extra effort that you notice compared to working at the mast.

sandpiper10471 · Apr 2, 2010

Well my earlier comments have drummed up some questions! I always like shaking things up. First, the answer is yes. A small hole through the deck for the fastener bolt. A larger hole, like 1", through the liner to provide access to the nut and washer end of the bolt. Very difficult getting a washer and nut onto the bolt while someone on deck holds it down. The trick is to put a little caulking on your index finger then stick the washer to that. By feel, the owner (the one down below - you wouldn't give this job to a friend) slides the washer onto the bolt then removes finger. The washer usually remains in position, being held by the caulking stuck to the bolt threads. Repeat the process with the nut while the helper on deck slowly turns the fastener. You can just get a socket or box wrench into the hole to tighten the nut. Better turning the nut than rotating the bolt on deck as the latter may auger out some of the caulking which is supposed to waterproof the whole deal.

On the H33 it was necessary to use this method rather than bolting through the liner and making a double decker (pun) sandwich because the space between the liner and deck is MUCH greater than on the H37C. The bigger boat seems to have the liner almost bonded to the deck. Be sure to have lots of spare fasteners. I am sure that if the current owner of my H33 were to cut the liner completely out he would recoup the purchase price in stainless washers, nuts and lost wrenches! And keep lots of rags around and a garbage bag very handy. The owner will end up with more adhesive goop on him than the boat will hold.

Ed S - good try on those plugs but they are not the ones that will work on the 33 liner. CS yachts and C&C used to use these to cover screw heads and they worked well. However, they won't fill a hole. I get mine from The Rigging Shoppe in Toronto and haven't seen them elsewhere. Too bad. They consist of a disc larger than the hole to be filled and a perpendicular cylinder which grips the liner hole. Unfortunately I do not have access to any right now so can't attach a photo but if I am at that chandelry this spring I will get at least one, just so I can more effectively share with you.