DS II: Painting Questions (Detailed)

[nick_ander]

I am getting ready to start painting the hull of my boat. I have taken to the forums and to youtube to find the best method of doing this. I have learned that it is not going to be cheap.

1. Has anyone here used interlux perfection? Is there something cheaper that works as well? Did this not work for you, and if so what would you recommend? Pettit seems to be cheaper than the rest, but I have heard nothing about how it goes on, how long it lasts, or how it looks.

2. I used to do FG repair years ago. Gelcoat was easy to get a great smooth shine through sanding and buffing. Can you do the same with the 2 parts like interlux perfection. I will be rolling and tipping and I don't want to have brush streaks in the paint. Is sanding even needed to get that smooth look?

3. Most of these paints are considered topside paints. I plan on painting the entire hull. I don't want to use anti fouling unless I have to as I will be trailering my boat and it will never be in the water (salt) more than a couple of days. Have you used the topside paint for the entire hull or do I need to find another paint for under the water line.

Thank you.

Nicholas

 

[Ed Schenck]

Done right with shade, right temperature, free of dust, and a properly prepared surface it should look great. It will take two people in order to keep a wet edge since you have so much surface. I think you will need to do the sides separate from the bottom. I don't know that you could keep a wet edge with that much vertical, not with 2-part.

I used a one-part, Toplac, on my cabin trunk and deck. I don't think anyone can see brushstrokes. I look forward to pictures of yours. That will have to be my next step, my topsides gelcoat is getting thin after thirty-one years.

P.S. Almost forgot that I also painted the entire hull sans bottom of my Highlander. Another cheaper one-part, Brightside, that I had left over from previous projects. And no, you cannot wet sand and buff out like gelcoat. But the paint does not mark up like gelcoat. Just clean and wax.

 

[Sunbird22358]

The only problem with ANY Polyurethane paint (even expensive Awlgrip!) is it will bubble (lots and lots of tiny little bumps) anytime it gets wet for an extended time period. The bubbles all flatten out and disappear as the surface dries out, but the paint WILL blister. So, I'm not sure what will happen below hte waterline if you use a Polyurethane. I would not bother with an antifoulant if you will never have the boat in saltwater (or even fresh) for more than a few days at a time, but you may wish to use a "traditional" (ie: good old-fashioned enamel) marine paint at least below waterline. However, above hte waterline Petit's EASYPOXYor Interlux's BRIGHTSIDE, are both good paints and I've had great luck with both. The gloss lasts for at least 5-6 years in my experience, however like any paint job, preparation is important! And apply at least 2-coats. Below the waterline, it actually might be best to apply a coat or two of an inexpensive hard (epoxy-base) antifoulant, you will not need to repaint it for several years (except maybe cosmetic touch-ups, like where boat rubs on trailer bunks). I know you are trying to avoid the antifoulant...... but it is worth considering. The other option would be to sand the below waterline areas to clean off all that "yuck" that you mentioned elsewhere, and using finer and finer grades of abrasives ,polish the bottom and coat with a few coats of a good paste wax. Easier to maintain than any paint?

 

[nick_ander]

I will probably use the Pettit after studying several projects where it was used. I may go with the epoxy based antifoulant. Do you have suggestions as to which one I should use? Any good luck with a certain one? I know this sounds like a stupid question, but which would I paint on first? Is overlapping an issue? Thank you.

Nicholas