Drying Out an Iron Keel - Hunter 23'

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Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
I have removed all of the growth and the first real nasty layer of rust. I ground down to not the shiny iron, but got it to black up by where it meets the hull.

I painted some POR-15 on to see how it would adhere. On humid days, I can see some moisture weeping through the POR-15 and creating little bubbles. On dry days it's good, as it was to day with 50% humidity.

Is the keel saturated?

Thanks!!!
 

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Last edited:
Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
Hmm, can't picture how the solid iron could absorb water, if you really got to bare metal. Did you use the POR cleaner and metal prep? I wonder if the POR doesn't adhere as well without that. I used it, and mine is pretty good, with only some minor rust blisters after about a summer and a half, in fresh water though.
 

MrUnix

.
Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
I'm with Peter.. Can't imagine solid iron absorbing moisture, and POR-15 is non-porous so how it could 'weep' is a mystery to me. However, improper application can cause bubbling. Here is a snippit from their info sheet:

por-15 application info sheet said:
POR-15 is cured and strengthened by exposure to moisture and will dry faster under extreme humidity, but moderate to dry atmospheric conditions are most desirable when applying this product. That's because extreme humidity may cause an immediate surface cure, trapping carbon dioxide gas below the surface. When this happens, bubbling may occur. Extreme humidity at the time of application may also interfere with proper adhesion of the POR-15 coating to bare metal because it is almost impossible to keep the metal dry under such conditions.
Source: POR-15 Application Info Sheet

Could this be what you are seeing?

Cheers,
Brad
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
I would guess that there are holes in the keel and were covered with rust and they are weeping when the liquid expands.

If you would take the keel down to bare metal I would guess that you could see the imperfections.

I don't know if I would worry about it. The keel will rust off of the boat in about 2135.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
I never used POR 15;therefore, I am not as knowledgable.

so often I had customers who brought in boats where they repaired but ithe boats were not repaired and I had to redo the repairs.

lookin briefly at the poop on POR 15, it pretty much is the same as all other instructions on prepping the keel. First lets start off, the keel is metal and cannot become water logged which is a fact. The first thing that must be done is to get back to a clean metal surface getting rid of the rust, dirt, old paint and so forth. Then clean off with acetone to get rid of grease, dust residue, etc....

I then coated the metal with zinc chromate which helped to keep the metal from rusting. The next was to fill in any holes or depressions with a two part epoxy filler and then sanded smooth. Then I applied 4 to 5 layers of Interprotect 2000 series barrier coat epoxy paint. When dry, I lightly sanded the epoxy paint and then applied anti fouling paint if that was reqired. This process worked every time.

Like I said, everything is in the prep work and that may have been the problem. Yes I did screw up once in a blue moon and it was my prep work. Once, I had an employee to bottom paint over non priming paint which called for the first coat of anti fouling paint within a certain specific time on a 29 footer. I left specfic instructions with the employee as I had gone to a meeting at Hunter. Several months later, the paint was flaking off. I found out my instructions were not followed to include other things that had gone on to include drinking while driving with a company vehicle. Needless to say, I pulled the boat out of the water and redid the job correctly.. I fired the employee over many things but DWI in my vehicle was the last straw.

crazy
 
Dec 1, 1999
2,391
Hunter 28.5 Chesapeake Bay
I used to use, and recommend, the use of POR-15 on the iron keel of my H28.5. While I had some success with this product for a few seasons, it began to deteriorate and I have since removed all of it. In some long conversations with techs at Interlux, they convinced me that POR-15 was not the right product to protect a submerged iron keel for very long (and my experience bears this out). They recommend 3-4 coats of Interlux Primocon on a properly prepared and sanded iron keel before applying bottom paint.
 
Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
Interesting. I was told that the zinc anode would not really do much, but I was not beleiving the advice, since as you, that it would help to some degree. Are you in salt or fresh water? Thanks for the advice, I will put two on.

Thanks!

Dave
 
Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
Thanks for the info! I painted my trailer with the por-15 and it came out decent. I am having some rust spots showing up in a few minor spots. I was reluctant to put it below the water line so I am holding off. I have heard very good feedback on Interlux products and will check out your advice.

Thaanks!!!

Dave
 
Last edited:
Dec 1, 2007
74
-Hunter -23 Kenora, Ontario, Canada
Are you in salt or fresh water?
Dave
Hi Dave, fresh water, and only a 6 month season. We have 3 feet of ice right now:cry:.

I feel it helps, I have had the zincs on for almost 20 years and they are more than half disappeared, so they must do something:
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/picture.php?albumid=1534&pictureid=10603

In salt they would probably dissolve much quicker. I simply drilled and tapped the keel, and used SS bolts. I'm not sure that's the right metal for bolts, but they haven't fallen off yet. I wire brush them every spring before launch. Outboards and I/O's still use zinc for trim tabs, so they must work.
-Chris
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Since you are in fresh water and for a period of 5 to 6 months, zincs on keels do not really help on small boats as most do not have electrical on them nor brass/bronze thru seacocks. But if you feel the need, by all rightsl, put them on. If boat is moored in a marina and are deteroriating fast, then you may be expereincign electroylisis and you need to move quickly to find that source and fix it.

Crzazy dave
 
Jun 16, 2010
495
In search of my next boat Palm Harbor, FL
Carbo, I live in Palm Harbor, so pm me if you need an extra set of hands.
 
Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
dave,

What did you use to get the keel down to shiny iron? I have been using 29 or 36 grit discs on my angle grinder, but am having a hard time getting past the black layer just before getting to shiny iron. Is getting to the black enough?

Thanks!
 

MrUnix

.
Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
The black layer might be the remains of a previous owner using phosphoric acid to de-rust the keel in a past life. Can be some tough stuff to remove. I have had success in the past using one of these things in my angle grinder. Much more aggressive than sanding discs.



Cheers,
Brad
 
Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
Brad,

Thanks!!! I saw these in the store last weekend but thought they looked weaker than discs. Something new learned today. Cool. I bought a gallon of Fozz, phosphoric acid, a few months ago and have been looking at alternatives. I wonder if the previous owner used something like this and if I can use it, then do the interlux primocon. I'll have to check.

Thanks!
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Brad hit it on the nail head which is what I used when cleaning keels. Please use a zinc chromate to coat the metal with first.
 
Dec 24, 2011
81
Hunter 33C Chesapeake
Brad hit it on the nail head which is what I used when cleaning keels. Please use a zinc chromate to coat the metal with first.
I'm looking at some of the zinc chromate primers and most say they are for aluminum. Is that the same stuff you are using on Iron ?

Cheers

Warren.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Warren;

In my younger days when repairing boats, I use to go to the old timers who had the experience which helped me. I recall one asked me to pass on his experience which is one reason why I am on the forum.

In the 1920's into the 1930's, zinc chromate was developed to prevent metal corrosion and used primarily in the aircraft industry starting in the mid 1930's. I learned this from my dad who was a forward artillery observer flying an 01 Bird dog in WWII and Korea as well as Gus Grissom who raised me as his third son when my father was killed.

I owned an old swing keel cast iron sailboat which I learned alot on. It was rusty and I was looking for a way to prevent corrision and several mentioned applying zinc chromate. I tried and it worked.

When ever I use to clean a cast iron keel, I would spray zinc chromate under several brands as a corrision preventer. In all my years, I never had a failure using this approach and even had some customers demand I do so when I told them it was standard procedure. When I do a repair, I do whatever I can to fix it right the first time so it will not happen again.

Ok, some may disagree with this but it worked for me to help preventing corrision.

Crazy dave condon
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
We really should not refer to him as "crazy".:)

http://www.colorserver.net/history/history-zinc-chromate.htm


Warren;

In my younger days when repairing boats, I use to go to the old timers who had the experience which helped me. I recall one asked me to pass on his experience which is one reason why I am on the forum.

In the 1920's into the 1930's, zinc chromate was developed to prevent metal corrosion and used primarily in the aircraft industry starting in the mid 1930's. I learned this from my dad who was a forward artillery observer flying an 01 Bird dog in WWII and Korea as well as Gus Grissom who raised me as his third son when my father was killed.

I owned an old swing keel cast iron sailboat which I learned alot on. It was rusty and I was looking for a way to prevent corrision and several mentioned applying zinc chromate. I tried and it worked.

When ever I use to clean a cast iron keel, I would spray zinc chromate under several brands as a corrision preventer. In all my years, I never had a failure using this approach and even had some customers demand I do so when I told them it was standard procedure. When I do a repair, I do whatever I can to fix it right the first time so it will not happen again.

Ok, some may disagree with this but it worked for me to help preventing corrision.

Crazy dave condon
 
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