Dropping the rudder on a Hunter 34

Aug 10, 2015
22
Hunter 34 Charleston
Anyone have any tips on dropping the rudder on a Hunter 34? I have to replace the cutlass bearing and either have to pull the prop shaft or pull off the strut. The bearing is to corroded to press out (have tried with Strut Pro and hydraulic press). I am worried that the strut itself might be bad, but it isn't pink. Seems like pulling the shaft would be better than having to replace the strut and go through all of the alignment and re-bedding issues. Any advice/comments appreciated.
 
Sep 8, 2014
2,551
Catalina 22 Swing Keel San Diego
Sounds like by trying to avoid one cost you are setting yourself up to have a much bigger problem & cost later. I couldn't say without knowing the maintenance history on your boat, but if that cutlass bearing is frozen in place there might be other issues that need attention... At the end of the day you will still remove the strut and you'd need the realignment anyway.
This is only my opinion based on a best educated guess, because I haven't personally seen many bronze struts that were 'gone', but I'm willing to throw it out there that you can't really tell that the bronze is 'pink' until you get it super clean. Someone might call BS on that and I'm willing to say I could be wrong.
 
Aug 10, 2015
22
Hunter 34 Charleston
I have the new prop shaft and need to drop the rudder to get it in. Strut looks ok after cleaning it off. Any tips on disconnecting the rudder anyone?
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,885
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Kind of a big job because of the removal of the pulley wheel and steering gear. If you can get all that loose, then either a hole in the ground or a little time on the lift to get it clear. Some folks have lifted the engine and pulled the shaft that way. A job for sure, but then you don't have to pull the coupling to get the shaft out, or can easily re-fit a new one before the shaft is in the boat. I think one of us H-34 owners on the forum has done the lift to pull shaft and thought it was not as bad a job as he'd envisioned because of the good engine access. IIRC, the engine was lifted just off mounts and moved to one side (maybe port?) to let the shaft go forward. I think there is enough slack in wires and controls to accommodate.. anyway, something to think about.
EDIT: OH and it is pretty heavy so be sure to block it before pulling the support bearings in the lazarette.. Good Luck and take pictures!
 
Aug 10, 2015
22
Hunter 34 Charleston
removal of the pulley wheel and steering gear
That's the kind of information I needed to know. I didn't want to start disconnecting things I didn't need to, to get the rudder out. The shaft is already out. The boat had the original bronze one so I just cut it out. I could not for the life of me get the coupling undone. After the removing the shaft I cut the bearing out no problem. Compared to some of the other cutlass bearings I have seen I was pretty surprised how thin the sleeve was on the Hunter. The new stainless steel shaft and a new split coupling was only $400 including shipping. Dropping the rudder is not a problem because of the yard I am in. Just dig a hole (its pretty sandy soil) and the boatyard owner has already given me the go ahead to do that.
 
Sep 19, 2019
25
Hunter 34 Kemah
Hi guys. I want to change the rudder bearings on my ‘86 Hunter 34. I’ve been reading about how to do it since the original bearing is no longer available. Does anyone have drawings or photos of how they got it done. I’d like to see it being done before I start the project.
Thanks!
 
Jun 3, 2004
890
Hunter 34 Toronto, Ontario Canada
I have replaced the cutlass bearing twice in mine- both time while on the hard. I lifted the engine- fairly easy to do even alone. I put a 4x4 piece across the top of the entrance, tied a rope around it and made a loop. Used my mainsail block ( 8:1) to fasten to the loop and to a short chain with snap ends fastened to the two attachments on the 3GMF. Lifted high enough to remove the shaft with the coupling still on the end. Yes do put a block under it. I then attached the coupling to the new shaft, inserted it.
I was going to dig the hole but found there was too much fill of concrete pieces just under the sand surface in our lot. I think the motor lift was easier.