I have a 1988 Legend 37 which has a 1" bronze drive shaft. When I have the engine in gear and traveling at low RPMs I find that the drive shaft is shaking quite a bit between the strut and the stuffing box. My guess is that the shaft might be bent. I have made sure the alignment of the shaft connecting to the transmition is correct. There is only 225 hours on the engine so the engine usage is low. Two questions: 1. I can't remove the coupler end from the shaft which connects to the engine. I have used a puller which doesn't make any movement in the coupler. Is there a trick in removing the coupler from the shaft? 2. Once I get the coupler off and find the shaft is not bent, where can a get a stainless steel replacement shaft without getting ripped off from the marina? Thanks for your help.
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shaft replacement
Mickey, I had a similar problem and had to use a puller to remove the shaft from the coupler.If it is truely "frozen" on and you are going to replace the shaft anyway go ahead and cut the shaft to remove it.Hunter sells new shafts (with coupler,at least for my boat when I talked with them)If not a good machine shop can remove it with a press or drill it out.Shaft are common place and availabe any where. Hunter being one source as well as most prop shops (I know there are several in you area) If not Essex Marine machine shop in New London CT, can make one for you.Not sure of the lenght shaft you need but I priced a 48 inch shaft/1 inch diameter,it as appx $275.Good time to replace the cutlass bearing and repack the stuffing box (everthing is apart) Good Luck !
Mickey, I had a similar problem and had to use a puller to remove the shaft from the coupler.If it is truely "frozen" on and you are going to replace the shaft anyway go ahead and cut the shaft to remove it.Hunter sells new shafts (with coupler,at least for my boat when I talked with them)If not a good machine shop can remove it with a press or drill it out.Shaft are common place and availabe any where. Hunter being one source as well as most prop shops (I know there are several in you area) If not Essex Marine machine shop in New London CT, can make one for you.Not sure of the lenght shaft you need but I priced a 48 inch shaft/1 inch diameter,it as appx $275.Good time to replace the cutlass bearing and repack the stuffing box (everthing is apart) Good Luck !
removing coupling
An easy way for removing the coupling is to place a spacer between the prop shaft and the engine shaft and reattach the coupling with the bolts using longer bolts if necessary. Then tighten the bolts evenly. The spacer will push the shaft out. Some wd-40 will also help. If the boat is in the water, be careful that you dont have the shaft slide out completly!
An easy way for removing the coupling is to place a spacer between the prop shaft and the engine shaft and reattach the coupling with the bolts using longer bolts if necessary. Then tighten the bolts evenly. The spacer will push the shaft out. Some wd-40 will also help. If the boat is in the water, be careful that you dont have the shaft slide out completly!
Mickey, One other thing to check is the 8 bolts that fasten down the 4 engine mounts to the 'Glassed over' wood engine mount stringers. If some are loose, that can cause vibration at the shaft because it causes the engine itself to vibrate. It's worth checking out those lag bolts to be sure that they are tight. Dick Carey S/V Puffin 1990 H-33.5
straighten shaft
Most machine shops can straighten the shaft if that is indeed the problem. Check the cutlass bearing in the strut and see if it needs to be replaced. I would replace it anyway if you have the shaft pulled.
Most machine shops can straighten the shaft if that is indeed the problem. Check the cutlass bearing in the strut and see if it needs to be replaced. I would replace it anyway if you have the shaft pulled.
To keep your shaft from sliding out (adding to Ben
install a hose clamp on the shaft. Pick a spot that will let you do what you want to do. Even better, when done with your shaft work, install TWO hose clamps on the shaft as a permanent safety device. The clamps will keep the shaft from backing out of the hull or hitting the rudder, should the worse happen. Be sure to use two. Set the worm gears opposite of each other to maintain balance. It's also a old shade tree, hotrod trick to balance car drive shafts. Move the clamps around until she smoothens out.
Oh, my H34 rebuild web site grew again yesterday.
install a hose clamp on the shaft. Pick a spot that will let you do what you want to do. Even better, when done with your shaft work, install TWO hose clamps on the shaft as a permanent safety device. The clamps will keep the shaft from backing out of the hull or hitting the rudder, should the worse happen. Be sure to use two. Set the worm gears opposite of each other to maintain balance. It's also a old shade tree, hotrod trick to balance car drive shafts. Move the clamps around until she smoothens out.
Oh, my H34 rebuild web site grew again yesterday.set screws
there are screws or bolts that hold the shaft to the coupler. If these are removed (or at least backed-off) and the shaft still won't come out then the key may have rolled and be jammed in the key-way. If it is bad enough, you may need to remove the coupler from the engine and cut the shaft - a saws-all will do - and take the both pieces to a prop/shaft shop for refabrication. They should be able to drill out the key from the back of the coupler, and save the coupler. Look in the white and yellow pages/ask around for a propeller company. They will be who the yard contracts with anyway. You will need to bring the shaft and the coupler to the shop for accurate fabrication. They should also recondition the coupler. Ask for new set screws! Take the prop and have it checked too, as a bent prop will cause vibration, but I am not sure it will be the type you describe.
there are screws or bolts that hold the shaft to the coupler. If these are removed (or at least backed-off) and the shaft still won't come out then the key may have rolled and be jammed in the key-way. If it is bad enough, you may need to remove the coupler from the engine and cut the shaft - a saws-all will do - and take the both pieces to a prop/shaft shop for refabrication. They should be able to drill out the key from the back of the coupler, and save the coupler. Look in the white and yellow pages/ask around for a propeller company. They will be who the yard contracts with anyway. You will need to bring the shaft and the coupler to the shop for accurate fabrication. They should also recondition the coupler. Ask for new set screws! Take the prop and have it checked too, as a bent prop will cause vibration, but I am not sure it will be the type you describe.
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