Don't want to remove sea hood on my 1983 H31

[SFS]

I have some companionway hatch slider issues/leaks. Been reading threads on the topic for 24 hours (advanced search is the bomb). The most helpful threads were all related to H34 models, not much on H31, though I'm not finished reading.

A minute ago, I found this quote from a John Kirkland, in Sandusky OH, specifically about an H31. It is post #3 in this thread:

http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...g-hatch-replacement.127170/&highlight=seahood

"Thanks Steve...I have removed the sliding hatch before. I have modified it so I don't have to remove the hood every time I want to take it out. (emphasis added)

Has anyone figured out a way to get a companionway hatch out of an H31 without removing the seahood? Anyone seen an example of this mod? Anyone know how to get in touch with this poster? He hasn't logged on since 2013.

 

[pateco]

I too would like any info available.

 

[kloudie1]

The only things holding the slider in on the 34 and I think the 31 also are a wooden stop screwed to the underside of the forward end of the slider and the closed ends of the fiberglass covers on each side of the companionway tracks. To make the slider removable, the stop has to be removed and the (cosmetic) slide covers have to be modified so that the aft closed end could be opened. The seahood probably has to come off to remove the stop, unless like mine, it has broken off.. Modified covers could be made of teak or even fiberglass ?? maybe a locking hinge on the aft end cover? I dunno.

 

[kloudie1]

didn't now if you had these pictures.. these are of the H-31 without the sea hood on.

 

[SFS]

I'm not on the boat, but regarding the wooden stop on the forward end of the slider - why do you think the seahood would have to come off to take off the (unbroken) stop? Isn't it screwed in from the underside (the cabin side) of the plexiglass?

I never thought of removing fiberglass to open up the aft ends of the slider tracks. I would certainly do that before going through a seahood removal. It would also effectively let the aluminum tracks become "pourover" points that shouldn't clog, like the semicircular molded-into-the-fiberglass drain points there now. You wouldn't need to take much fiberglass off in the fore-and-aft dimension. Why would the section that is removed need to be recovered at all?

Thanks for the pictures, which I had seen in a previous thread. I'm now back to 2010 threads, with more to read. Just like in the Owner Modifications section of this site, there is a LOT more information on 34's than 31's.

 

[kloudie1]

The wooden stop is forward of the lip on the inner forward part of the opening.. the place where the cleaning lines are in the left picture. It hits the front edge of the lip inside the pocket, stopping rearward movement.. you can't see it unless you open the seahood.. Interesting thoughts on the aft ends of the slider covers.. without the wood stop forward, something has to stop the slider from coming out aft. You may be able to remove enough of the aft cover to allow removal of the slider, but you'd have to cover the opening maybe with a piece of teak or Starboard to stop the slider from coming out when underway.

 

[SFS]

Good point about the aft fiberglass being the aft stop. Relative to the forward stops, I hope it will be more clear when I look again. I'll try to take more pictures.

I've run through all the previous threads on this topic, and have noted the comments about the forward ends of the aluminum channels for the slider being open, and that plugging those forward ends while the seahood is off stops some leaks. I'm not sure I understand how the plug would stop a leak. A plug would only prevent water from entering from the front of the channel (say rainwater sheeting across the coach roof). Water will still be getting in the channel from elsewhere (I know to keep the channels clean and the aft channel opening clear). Is it that the plug actually prevents water that is already in the channel from moving FORWARD, spilling into an area where it pools, and the rising pooled water comes in over the forward portion of the slider (the part that runs athwartships).

 

[kloudie1]

On my 34, the gap above the slider (lower aft edge of seahood) was insufficient to let the wood chock stop clear the lip in the cabin ceiling .. ya just couldn't lift the slider high enough at the forward edge to get the block clear of the lower lip. ya couldn't disengage the stop..
Again, on the 34 (I think the 31 is very similar) the boat sits slightly bow down when unloaded (in slip) .. That tilt, even though a very small amount, causes all the water that gets on the top of a closed slider to preferentially go forward into that dirty pocket in the picture.. it cannot easily get into the drain channels. The water that runs off the sides of the slider go into the channel which would be a fine drain if they were tilted toward aft. They are if folks are in the cockpit.. plugging the fronts of the channels would make the water running off the sides of the slider go into the channel under the slider in the guide and hopefully aft, depending on folks positions in the boat. In my 34, in a heavy rainstorm, both folks sitting at settee, no leaks .. but when we walk aft, ya have to be ready to catch about a pint of water that will cascade out of the aft edge of the companionway.. a small piece of line with a knot in one end can be inserted under the slide at the lip and the other end put into the sink. The water will follow the line into the sink mostly..