Dodger Windshield Cleaning

Rick486 · Nov 18, 2013

Yeah amazing. My dodger is 6 years old and the canvas guy told me to clean eisenglass only with fresh water and a soft cloth. Well, just before hauling I bought some Star Brite stuff and did the whole enclosure eisenglass. It was amazing. Looked like the day it was installed. Clear and glossy. Maybe the canvas guy is a little out of date.

Dan Johnson · Nov 19, 2013

First I would clean the windows with dish detergent in a mild soapy water solution. Don't use a product like "Windex" to do the initial cleaning as the alcohol base will deteriorate the plastic.

When dry, I originally used convertible top window cleaner from my old sports car days. When it ran out, I started using the headlight lens cleaner stuff over the winter a few seasons ago. Lightly applied and followed up with a good light waxing (not "cleaner wax") and my dodger windows would stay clear for the almost the full season.

windwagon · Nov 27, 2013

Many years ago Grady White (a power boat company) recommended using acetone. It worked very well and I kept my eisenglass very clear for over 15 years. If it were not for the company's recommendation I would never have otherwise tried it because I know it will cloud some types of plastics.

Maine Sail · Nov 27, 2013

windwagon said:
Many years ago Grady White (a power boat company) recommended using acetone. It worked very well and I kept my eisenglass very clear for over 15 years. If it were not for the company's recommendation I would never have otherwise tried it because I know it will cloud some types of plastics.

Are you sure it was Acetone and not Denatured Alcohol?

I know for a fact that Acetone will damage, cloud & distort Eisenglass, AKA clear vinyl, AKA clear polyvinylchloride, AKA clear PVC.... Ask me how I know.........

:cussing::cussing:

Acetone will 100% void the warranty on Strataglass and will physically melt it. Strataglass is also clear vinyl...

BTW Acetone is used as one of the major ingredient the "PVC cleaner" that pre-melts/cleans PVC pipe before the cement is applied. PVC is polyvinylchloride......

windwagon · Nov 27, 2013

I am positive sure. I used it hundreds of times. Strataglas may be different. I tried it on hard plastics and on some it did not work well. I know it seems wrong but it is not. I used to get black marks where the stainless rubbed against the eisenglass and the marks wiped right off. The eisenglass out lasted the canvass and stayed clear and pliable.

thinwater · Nov 27, 2013

Maine Sail said:
Are you sure it was Acetone and not Denatured Alcohol?

I know for a fact that Acetone will damage, cloud & distort Eisenglass, AKA clear vinyl, AKA clear polyvinylchloride, AKA clear PVC.... Ask me how I know.........:cussing::cussing:

Acetone will 100% void the warranty on Strataglass and will physically melt it. Strataglass is also clear vinyl...

BTW Acetone is used as one of the major ingredient the "PVC cleaner" that pre-melts/cleans PVC pipe before the cement is applied. PVC is polyvinylchloride......

I am up to about 40 panels test panels. Some testing cleaning rituals, some polishes, some scratch removers, some protectants. I've learned a few things for certain and will learn more before we finish in ~ 3-5 years.

a. Mainesail is right. Just for laughs I went downstairs and dunked some Strataglass in acetone. While it doesn't melt it right away, it softens sufficiently that any cloth will leave tracks. Additionally, commercial acetone often contains traces of other solvents. In time it will also remove the polyurethane coating which, among other things, prevents humidity induced hazing. While it is possible to get away with under certain circumstances, it's Russian roulette with 3 bullets. Perhaps the poster had just the right window, just the right solvent, light application and good luck, but I don't see it.

b. Alcohols present a similar risk one of the big gambles is whether they have added a little denaturant or MEK for increased solvency. A big gamble. Hardware store solvents are a crap shoot at best.

c. Cleaning with any abrasive containing polish reduces vinyl life and increases humidity haze. They cause million of micro scratches, and while a wax can hide them, the waxed test panels still haze, just a bit less. Don't do it. Instead, either use Imar products like the manufacture tells you (they are very good and very safe) or at least use a non-abrasive product and elbow grease (with only VERY clean cloths). I have the screwed-up panels to prove this. Yes, cleaner products are faster and look good in the short term. Perhaps for old damaged vinyl it doesn't matter so much. Perhaps for folks in climates without nor'easters won't notice so much.

d. The best way to ruin vinyl fast is to spray them with bug juice, sunscreen, or water repellant. Some of the solvents literally melt the vinyl and many can ruin the window in a single application.

And I should probably leave it there. While we may discover some additional safe cleaners and protectants (in addition to Imar), so far I'm pretty certain that Mainesail's vinyl maintenance tips--basically manufacture guidance--will remain the gold standard; keep them clean, treat with protectant, don't scratch them, and use only approved products. I've met with the makers and they have some horror stories to tell. Don't be one.

Good luck!

Maine Sail · Nov 27, 2013

thinwater said:
I am up to about 40 panels test panels. Some testing cleaning rituals, some polishes, some scratch removers, some protectants. I've learned a few things for certain and will learn more before we finish in ~ 3-5 years.

a. Mainesail is right. Just for laughs I went downstairs and dunked some Strataglass in acetone. While it doesn't melt it right away, it softens sufficiently that any cloth will leave tracks. Additionally, commercial acetone often contains traces of other solvents. In time it will also remove the polyurethane coating which, among other things, prevents humidity induced hazing. While it is possible to get away with under certain circumstances, it's Russian roulette with 3 bullets. Perhaps the poster had just the right window, just the right solvent, light application and good luck, but I don't see it.

b. Alcohols present a similar risk one of the big gambles is whether they have added a little denaturant or MEK for increased solvency. A big gamble. Hardware store solvents are a crap shoot at best.

c. Cleaning with any abrasive containing polish reduces vinyl life and increases humidity haze. They cause million of micro scratches, and while a wax can hide them, the waxed test panels still haze, just a bit less. Don't do it. Instead, either use Imar products like the manufacture tells you (they are very good and very safe) or at least use a non-abrasive product and elbow grease (with only VERY clean cloths). I have the screwed-up panels to prove this. Yes, cleaner products are faster and look good in the short term. Perhaps for old damaged vinyl it doesn't matter so much. Perhaps for folks in climates without nor'easters won't notice so much.

d. The best way to ruin vinyl fast is to spray them with bug juice, sunscreen, or water repellant. Some of the solvents literally melt the vinyl and many can ruin the window in a single application.

And I should probably leave it there. While we may discover some additional safe cleaners and protectants (in addition to Imar), so far I'm pretty certain that Mainesail's vinyl maintenance tips--basically manufacture guidance--will remain the gold standard; keep them clean, treat with protectant, don't scratch them, and use only approved products. I've met with the makers and they have some horror stories to tell. Don't be one.

Good luck!

One word for dodger glass care..... IMAR

joker460 · Nov 27, 2013

The manufacturer of our Dodger which has 40 mil Lexan said to use a product called Klear to Sea.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=50218&subdeptNum=50268&classNum=50270#

Been using it and it seems to work well.

quadrille38 · Nov 28, 2013

I only use IMAR on recommendation from our canvas maker. He said warm soapy water with microfiber cloth followed by IMAR.
Nothing else EVER he said.
It's worked for me.

thinwater · Nov 28, 2013

The ironic thing is that zipping panels out and rolling generally increase wear rather than reduce it. Clear vinyl prefers to hang in place. Practical in Maine, difficult on the Chesapeake, and impossible in Florida.

I've had great luck covering windows, which may make god sense for you, with the UV, depending on the wind and how you do it. Covering windows has not worked in Maine, with less UV and more wind; polishing is obviously working well there.

http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2013/09/to-cover-or-not-to-cover.html

woodster · Nov 28, 2013

seadaddler said:
I guess I did not take care of my clear windshield as I should have but did use
IMAR products for cleaning and protection over the years but I guess it took
alot of wear and tare and had some real bad marks and this last year or so tried using Imar for cleaning it up but no luck and almost decided to replace it with new.
But before replacing it gave it one last shot and was very impressed with Meguiar's Plastic X and the Flitz both with the buffing ball but the Plastic X really did make it like new and can now see out the windshield much better and will use the Cleaners I have from IMAR.
Nick

they way i view this problem is that when they are new and in good repair treat them like the manufacture recommends to and when that no longer works(after several years of use and in the hot bright Florida sun light) its time to bring them back to life and do what you have done...only thing is when that happens it will more than likely have to be done more often as time goes on.... so when that gets tiering replace them and wait till that time when the cycle has to be started again......based on your description you have done the best you can and also a good job at that ....

regards

woody

thinwater · Nov 28, 2013

Anyone use a franchise called Eisenshine?

IH82BL8 · Nov 30, 2013

I just sold a 37-year-old sports car with its original convertible top. The plastic windows were crystal clear. Wash your windows gently and thoroughly and polish them with chrome polish.

I should point out that the car was garage-kept. So you will probably want to apply something to your windows for protection from the elements.

Dodger Windshield Cleaning

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