Direct fresh water feed into the boat when at the dock

[ArkadiyS]

We are looking to spend a lot of our next summer time on the boat at the dock, and want to know how one can connect fresh water hose into the boat plumbing. I assume that I would be bypassing the water pump before the hot water tank, and use the water pressure at the dock to create the pressure for all faucets and shower? This would be instead of constantly monitoring fresh water tanks and filling them as we use fresh water, and also does not activate water pump every time a faucet is used. Is there a different way to do this? Thanks!

 

[Project_Mayhem]

As you're aware, you can turn off your pump at your electrical panel so it's not trying to pump from the tank. You'll want your city water feed Tee'd into the same line as the pump. However, the city's water pressure is likely much higher than your onboard pump so you'll want to add a regulator. A quick search on amazon showed many in the $10-30 range. I'm not terribly familiar with them but I wouldn't want to try this without as it could lead to leaks or possibly a damaged component

 

[JoeWhite]

It may also sink your boat if a pipe breaks when you are not on the boat.

 

[ArkadiyS]

As you're aware, you can turn off your pump at your electrical panel so it's not trying to pump from the tank. You'll want your city water feed Tee'd into the same line as the pump. However, the city's water pressure is likely much higher than your onboard pump so you'll want to add a regulator. A quick search on amazon showed many in the $10-30 range. I'm not terribly familiar with them but I wouldn't want to try this without as it could lead to leaks or possibly a damaged component

Having a regulator makes sense and there are many options for in-line controllers! We are looking to try a seasonal ‘live-aboard’ option and are trying to solve a few problems such as air conditioning, direct water feed and constantly turned on water heater. We are now on a Catalina 42, and having a bit more room helps. I thought that the idea is to bypass the pump altogether. In other words to connect AFTER the pump and before the hot water tank. Thank you!

 

[dLj]

The setup you are describing is common on RV's but not so common on sail boats. RV's don't sink if a water line breaks. RV's also typically have a pressure regulator on the pressurized fresh water feed system, as mentioned above.

Your boat may or may not have that system in place. Likely it does not.

As described above, you would run a separate water line from a hose connection on the outside of your boat tee'd into a location just past your existing pump in order to feed your water system. I would want to put in a ball valve on the pump side of the tee to isolate the pump and tanks and a ball valve on the pressure water system side of that tee that you would close when you aren't using it. There are pressure regulators that you can put on the external hose connection that the hose from the marina would connect to that you can simply remove when the system in not hooked up. On my RV, I simply kept it connected to the hose where I connected to the pressure system I used for the connection. You'll also want to have a way to winterize that line for winter storage.

dj

 

[marcham]

I`ve had this setup on an RV, it failed once... luckily i caught it before the floors got ruined. After that, we always shut off the water tap when we left the trailer. I can't image how badly this could go for a small pleasure craft. A hose can deliver 800-1000 gallons per hour, how much can your bilge pump pump?

It is common on larger vessels (60 feet +) that consume a lot of water with several guests onboard.

You'll need a pressure regulating/reducing coupler such as this (to avoid blowing out your plumbing, which may only have been designed for 40 psi).

SHURflo Wall Mount Pressure Reducing Water Connection - 183-029-14

Shurlfo's exclusive diaphragm design prevents high-pressure damage often caused by city water systems. These high performance water entries limit water pressure and include a check valve. 3/4" GHT - Female Swivel Inlet. 1/2" NPSM - Male Outlet. Features:

defender.ca

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I would try using your tanks first. I'm guessing you'd refill them once per week and you have water at your slip?

If I was to implement a fail safe on my own boat, I'd use a normally closed solenoid attached to a bilge switch. If the water in the bilge gets too high, the supply line would be shut off. If power to the solenoid becomes disconnected, it will shut off. This system assumes that you don't run your bilge pump at the dock as a failure would result in constant fill/empty cycles with unknown water levels.

Another approach, which is more common for plant watering and other applications is a tank switch or valve. When the water level drops, the valve or switch is activated to allow more water in. I would still want the solenoid in place with this approach

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

This is a crude diagram but shows where the connection is made. Note the check value to ensure no backflow into stuff which doesn’t like pressure.
while caution is always wise, virtually every boat at our marina has a pressure water connection.

 

[Rick Webb]

I always thought this was a fairly common practice for folks that spend many nights on their boat. It would be very similar to leaving your boat plugged into shore power. It's a risk and reward decision that has some options to maximize the reward and minimize the risk. There are two things I see done to minimize the chances of flooding the boat. First is obviously to turn the water off when leaving the boat. Make it a routine or even a ritual to lock the boat up and shut the water off. Second is to add a water timer. I have a simple mechanical one that I use when adding water to the pool because too often I get busy with something else and forget the water is running overfilling the pool.

Orbit 1 Output Port Adjustable Mechanical Hose End Timer 27704 at Lowes.com

 

[ArkadiyS]

I always thought this was a fairly common practice for folks that spend many nights on their boat. It would be very similar to leaving your boat plugged into shore power. It's a risk and reward decision that has some options to maximize the reward and minimize the risk. There are two things I see done to minimize the chances of flooding the boat. First is obviously to turn the water off when leaving the boat. Make it a routine or even a ritual to lock the boat up and shut the water off. Second is to add a water timer. I have a simple mechanical one that I use when adding water to the pool because too often I get busy with something else and forget the water is running overfilling the pool.

Orbit 1 Output Port Adjustable Mechanical Hose End Timer 27704 at Lowes.com

That is an awesome idea!! The simplest answer is often the best one!

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

A pressure reducer valve is absolutely necessary because the dock water pressure is higher than any boat plumbing can stand. Just keep in mind that, regardless of price, there are only two kinds of pressure reducers--those that have failed and those that will. So NEVER leave the boat or turn in for the night with dock water connected to the boat...you need to be aboard and awake to hear the FIRST sound of gushing water in the bilge. Don't just turn off the water on the dock or disconnect it from the faucet, disconnect it from the boat. Some well meaning fool will reconnect it or turn it back on. Dock water has sunk many a boat in its slip. There was a member here several years ago who was wakened in the middle of the night by the need to pee...he stepped out of his v-berth into calf deep water. Someone in my marina just took his dog out for a run for an hour on a Sunday morning and came back to find his deck shoes afloat in the cabin of his sailboat.

--Peggie

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Dock water has sunk many a boat in its slip. There was a member here several years ago who was wakened in the middle of the night by the need to pee...he stepped out of his v-berth into calf deep water.

Although the chances of sinking are slim, the oucome of failure is the destruction of your electrical wiring for sure and most mechanical/elecrical components of the boat.

It's hard to believe the chances people take with their boats.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Inexpensive, battery powered water alarms have saved me a few times. I launched a boat for the first time and it alerted us to a hose that had broken off and was letting a medium stream of water into the boat. The first time I tested one the sound scared the crap out of me event though I was expecting it. What an awful sound it made!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Inexpensive, battery powered water alarms have saved me a few times.

Alarms are the greatest ....................... when you're on the boat.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

I always wondered about those who think it’s too risky but think nothing of leaving water on in their home when away. And yea, I know houses don’t sink but even a little water in a house can destroy everything of far greater value.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

but think nothing of leaving water on in their home when away.

Domestic water piping doesn't get the bejabbers beaten out of it the way boat piping does each time the boat is taken out. Household piping will retain its integrity much longer than boat piping.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Domestic water piping doesn't get the bejabbers beaten out of it the way boat piping does each time the boat is taken out. Household piping will retain its integrity much longer than boat piping.

Ralph
if you have any empirical data showing that, it might be of interest to others on which to make an informed judgment.
While certainly not statistically valid, we have a ubiquitous problem here with older home underground pipe corrosion as well as the common failure of even the reinforced flex piping feeding every home clothes washer. Our daughter had one on her second floor washer fail and the damage was catastrophic. There is far less piping on a boat than any home.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I agree with @Don S/V ILLusion about the risk, but if boat plumbing is really inferior to house plumbing, then why not simply improve the boat plumbing to the same standard? There is no reason for plumbing on a boat to be inferior to house plumbing or to be abnormally stressed when it is secured properly. That said, I like the idea of installing a solenoid switch at the electrical panel (same as done for propane feed) that you would switch off when leaving the boat. Simple and easy to remember. I would have no more worry sleeping on my boat with water pressure than I do sleeping at home with that time bomb of a water heater in my basement. BTW, I have a pressure reducer on the feed to my house because of the high pressure in the street. As I have recently learned, that pressure reducer can fail silently and without warning, which led to my water heater pressure relief valve releasing and subsequently failing. Fortunately, the leak from the relief valve was slow and we noticed it before any real damage could occur. Security is never 100% !!

 

[BCsailor-skier]

Is it really such a pain to fill your tanks, say, 1x week? (A benefit: keeps your tanks fresh and clean.)

Our boat actually has the pressure-reducing valve and hoses all installed. We tried them once. Decided it was too risky so never used again. Simple to refill tanks and keep them fresh.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Is it really such a pain to fill your tanks, say, 1x week? (A benefit: keeps your tanks fresh and clean.)

Our boat actually has the pressure-reducing valve and hoses all installed. We tried them once. Decided it was too risky so never used again. Simple to refill tanks and keep them fresh.

It’s not so much the inconvenience (which it certainly is to have to constantly refill as in my case it would be more frequent than once a week) as it is the risk of contamination, bacterial growth and critters accumulating in the water we consume, cook with, shower with and wash with when dependent solely on tank stored water. Remember that disinfection, even if dependably effective, doesn’t remove all contaminants.

Everything is a risk. Pick which you prefer.