Difficulty raising mainsail on Hunter 33.5
- Thread starter turk397
- Start date
Same question came up on these threads and there are some good tips:
difficulty raising mainsail | SailNet Community
difficulty raising mainsail the last few feet | SailNet Community
Consider replac
difficulty raising mainsail | SailNet Community
difficulty raising mainsail the last few feet | SailNet Community
Consider replac
I recently replaced all of the slugs on the main due to breakage and age. Have found that the slugs and track still require frequent lubrication. I can generally hoist the main to within the last 3 to 4 feet by hand before using the winch. I have accepted the fact it will require frequent inspection and lubrication.
A few years ago Practical Sailor ran an article or two on cleaning the mast track. Especially on freshwater, spiders can set up house keeping in the track and that will gum things up.
Also, consider replacing the track with a Tides track. Makes a world of difference. We did and now we have to wear a hard hat when letting the sail down.
www.tidesmarine.com
Also, consider replacing the track with a Tides track. Makes a world of difference. We did and now we have to wear a hard hat when letting the sail down.
Track & Slide Systems | Tides Marine
Tides Marine, providing essential marine components to the marine industry since 1991
There are only so many elements involved in the raising of a sail. Friction is the enemy. Eliminating it is the key. That is why StrongTrack has such a following.
- Mast track. The luff grove or the track material can attract dirt and contmination. Maintaining it in a clean state reduces friction.
- Sail Luff. The sail material is clean and smooth, if it is a luff rope. Slides either slugs or cars are tightly - securely attached to sail (if they are loose or poorly attached they can turn and bind). Proper lubrication such as SailKote can reduce friction.
- Halyard. Ropes age and chafe. They no longer run smoothly over the sheaves or they leave strands that catch and bind causing friction. Inspect and replace your halyards as needed. Use a halyard diameter that matches the width of your sleeves and exit blocks.
- Turning blocks. This tool is another great place for friction. Reduce friction by assuring that the blocks are aligned to turn the halyard in the proper direction. Use blocks with bearings not just a plastic wheel on a spindle. Keep the bearings clean by regularly rinsing the block with water and a mild soap.
Another solution. Works for me. 
www.ewincher.com
EWINCHER | Electric Winch & Winch Handle for Sailing Boats
Smart Electric Sailing: we design electric winches and electric winch handles packed with advanced technology for sailing boats.
There is also technique... on masts with halyard exits above shoulder height hoisting by hand at the mast while a crew tails gives you much more result for your effort.. a big pull, tailer takes up slack, repeat... WAY faster too, an advantage again if you have lazy jacks..
Unfortunately this won't work nearly as well for you as I believe the hunter halyards exit at the deck level...
For solo sailors the same technique can be applied but you need to add a cam cleat on the mast to temporarily hold the halyard while you gather up the slack from the cockpit (assuming lines led aft).
Unfortunately this won't work nearly as well for you as I believe the hunter halyards exit at the deck level...
For solo sailors the same technique can be applied but you need to add a cam cleat on the mast to temporarily hold the halyard while you gather up the slack from the cockpit (assuming lines led aft).
+1 for the Tides track. I installed one on my 40.5 and the difference was amazing.Also, consider replacing the track with a Tides track. Makes a world of difference. We did and now we have to wear a hard hat when letting the sail down.
Track & Slide Systems | Tides Marine
Tides Marine, providing essential marine components to the marine industry since 1991
On our '92 Hunter 33.5 the halyard does exit the mast about 6' or more above the deck, and the main raising method you describe is exactly how we do it.
I have a roller furling main -- what I have noted on raising it once a year - SAILCOAT! for lube.
Next, I do need to ease the boom vang and sheet when rolling the main out. The boom rises a little bit when I set sail.
So.... possible on yours you have the vang and sheets too tight and you're fighting them raising the sail.
Others also mentioned cleaning the track - not a bad idea. See practical sailor on some cleaning options and jigs.
And make sure your main sheet is released because the boom will rise as the sail gets to the top.
My Tartan 30 had the main halyard sheave wear out. The aluminum sheave had a bronze oilite bushing in it. Over time the bushing had deformed and extruded out the sides of the sheave, binding the sheave in the masthead. After removing the pin, I had to use two screwdrivers to extract the old bushing. As I recall, the new bushing was $0.50 at the local bearing shop. I made up a suitable tool to press it into place.
I installed a mast track system from Tides Marine ~2 years ago when I got a new main and jib. It's much easier to raise the main now.. I do have two reef lines installed and it's still important to feed slack through those while raising the main. When we get down to the 3rd reef I just use a couple of sail ties to secure the fore and aft reef points. Fortunately we've only had to use the 3rd reef for ~1/2 day over the last few thousand miles. After that 1/2 day we dropped the main completely and continued on under storm staysail alone for the next 2 days.