I don't see the bracket for the kill cable on the picture of the regulator lever. When I said a detent I was talking in general terms as I am not familiar with your exact installation. I was using the picture and the page from the maintenance manual as a reference. Maybe the system has been changed over time. It does not look like it is possible for that system to have any shutdown movement with a fixed pin in the clevis without moving the fuel control lever.
Yes, if you follow the stop pin up, the bracket is just out of the picture. I was there today rewiring the float switch, and bilge pump. The old wire was lamp cord that was old and brittle, practically crumbling in my hands. It's now marine grade, sheathed wire. Anyway, while I was there I carefully tested the throttle lever. It moved smoothly from stop to stop, without the slightest feel of a detent. This particular configuration is curious. If C&C modified the original design to a single cable operation, as the non slotted clevis suggests I would expect the detent you describe, and I would see no need for the stop pin and spring, which are useless in this configuration. I can look for a cable, or have one made that fits properly. Then, assuming I am successful, I will search for a slotted clevis, and reconfigure everything according to the 2 cable configuration. In the interim I have modified a hard rubber door stop that is exactly the correct width, and wedge it below the throttle lever to prevent accidentally pushing the throttle far enough to stall. Not pretty, but functional. Obviously that will have to go before I clean and repaint those pieces The throttle lever is going to need some stripping, cleaning, and dipping in red Neoprene sometime soon, and the surrounding cast metal will need cleaning and painting. Hopefully by then I will have fixed the throttle/engine stop situation properly (without the doorstop}
www.jwwinco.com
I downloaded the service manual for the 1989 2QM15, may see if there is a 1979 version somewhere, and will look for the parts manual. Bigger problem I seem to be having is finding someone who has those parts. Will remeasure the old frozen cable (even though it was connected to the decompression lever, not the stop pin) it is pretty close to the 10' "universal" cable that won't work. Not sure 9' is a problem if it allows me to route it safely away from hot engine parts.
Here is my less fancy two lever throttle and recently installed "stall inhibiting detent device" (formerly known as a modified hard rubber doorstop). It's embarrassing, but effective for now.
Interim update. The Yanmar parts people say the slotted clevis is no longer available, but the stop cable is. He also gave me a source he recommends for used parts. So the search for a slotted clevis begins. If this used parts guy can't find one, maybe one of the hundreds of clevis manufacturers will. I requested thread size and count info, but if it's not readily available it is not too difficult to remove the current clevis, and find a bolt matching the thread and diameter. I really don't want to modify a clevis, unless as a last resort.
That sounds exceptionally efficient if you ask me. You can do everything needed in only 2x the actual time on the water? I thought 10x was more likely!
They were one of the first places I looked. While they had clevis forks with #10-32 thread, and other critical measurements, their clevises were similar to the one I removed, and unsuitable for modification (changing pivot hole to a slot). Notice on the sketch of the one I ordered the "arms" are uniform in width from end to end so elongating the hole is possible. Now look at the original and imagine what would happen if I elongated the hole. I only wish I had a better feel for how much additional regulator lever movement is necessary to go from idle to stop. I'm hoping as little as 1/4" extra travel will do the trick (though this clevis fork will allow me up to 3/4").
Well, no one chastised me, corrected my spelling, told me to ask elsewhere, questioned my intelligence, or said that the question was inappropriate. They did however contribute, and help me tackle the issue, so I would say yes the test passed, but it was never a test of the forum, but of my understanding and following of the established forum etiquette.did the test pass????
dj
