Diesel Problem Smorgasbord...
- Thread starter Jtcf78911
- Start date
Excellent idea. You are right, most of us don't think much about that......Is there a premium grade that is worth some extra $?
A thumb width is probably a good "rule of thumb" (sorry!) so to speak, but I used to do that and found that there was too much belt wear and soot throw so now I run mine looser. I still get a good charge so figure it is ok.
Belt wear can also come from corrosion in the v groove of your pulleys and misalignment of the pulleys. Take some emery cloth and clean up the grooves, and use a straight edge to check your alignment. The belt also runs your cooling pump so you don't want slippage.
Re: premium fuel hose...don't know. I just asked at the NAPA store since it is a lot closer than a trip to WM and sure enough they had a big spool of it for a very reasonable price.
Re: premium fuel hose...don't know. I just asked at the NAPA store since it is a lot closer than a trip to WM and sure enough they had a big spool of it for a very reasonable price.
The fuel line I used 15 years ago was 1/4" Gates XL SAE 30R7. Looks like all rubber, no braid/weave/ Anyone know of something better? Been in there 15 years so changing out makes sense and will use smooth clamps this time I think.
May I ask how you dealt with the first line from tank to pump? On my boat the tank has a special fitting for a special piece of hose, I imagine an OE part. Did you replace that as well?
If I recall correctly, the new pump had same size screw in fittings for fuel-in and fuel-out lines, while my fuel-in line required something smaller. The prior pump actually had a fuel-in fitting that was part of pump body. I ended up in an auto store and found a fitting that screwed into the new fuel pump and had a much smaller diameter capable of fitting my fuel-in line. Sorry if I've answered what you were not asking... 
Sorry, my question regards the fitting at the fuel tank end, not at the pump. Doubt that is a NAPA item.
I replaced my tank at the time so I didn't have a problem, Can you post a picture of your fitting? It should just screw into the tank pickup tube and you can likely get a barbed fitting with the thread to match? Also you should change your schematic so the first line goes to your primary filter, then to the pump, and then to the secondary filter. The pump has a coarse screen inside but you don't want all kinds of crud from the tank gunking up the pump, better to let the primary filter deal with that. Most Racor filters specify they should be on the suction side of the system so fuel is being sucked into them. If it is on the pressure side of the pump it is not to manufacturers specifications. You may have a different filter arrangement. When I pulled my pump apart it was a real mess after years of OEM arrangement.
Will try to get a photo of my fitting in next days. The factory set up was tank to Facet pump with 74 micron screen/magnet which I maintained when I changed out the pump some years ago. I clean this screen once a year in the Spring and it does not pick up that much. When I bought the boat used, the dealer added (downstream) an fuel/water separator, Racor 225R which I run with a 2 micron R26S filter. This set up, though perhaps not the most modern standard, has been perfect for me. One benefit of going tank to Facet with cleanable screen is the fact that you can see how much crap you are picking up from the tank. Might be worthwhile to track on these older tanks as they age. If you go from tank to Racor you will never be able to tell really. Like anything else. pluses and minuses I guess.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,179
The 225R is a nice familiar style twist on filter, similar to your car filter. Problem I see is that it does not let you see the condition of the filter when your change it. You have to drain the fuel from the filter prior to spinning the filter off and it exposes you to potential fuel spills in your bilge. I prefer the CG approved Racor 500MA. You can see the condition of the fuel through the site glass. You remove the top of the filter housing and pull the filter up out of the filter housing and into a container. Do this without emptying the fuel in the lines. With the addition of a Vacuum Gauge you can tell when the filter needs changing. And maybe most importantly you limit the amount of air you introduce into the fuel system reducing the challenge of having to bleed the fuel system just to change the filter.
An example of this system can be seen in this image. (Not a picture of my set up)
Here is a photo of my fitting, actually two of them, one being for the return line. I guess both should be replaced but cannot see these parts on the Universal M12 schematics.
Attachments
Mine looks like this so I don't see too much difference. I spin the whole thing off and do not spill.The 225R is a nice familiar style twist on filter, similar to your car filter. Problem I see is that it does not let you see the condition of the filter when your change it. You have to drain the fuel from the filter prior to spinning the filter off and it exposes you to potential fuel spills in your bilge. I prefer the CG approved Racor 500MA. You can see the condition of the fuel through the site glass. You remove the top of the filter housing and pull the filter up out of the filter housing and into a container. Do this without emptying the fuel in the lines. With the addition of a Vacuum Gauge you can tell when the filter needs changing. And maybe most importantly you limit the amount of air you introduce into the fuel system reducing the challenge of having to bleed the fuel system just to change the filter.
An example of this system can be seen in this image. (Not a picture of my set up)
Your tank set up looks just like the one I replaced same crimp style hoses, valve, etc. See if you can unscrew the hoses from the pick up tube fittings. Then get barbed fittings to replace them, same on the filter end. Then you can use regular fuel hose and hose clamps. You'll find those hoses are hard and brittle after 30 years most likely. Just bring the hose ends to a marine or hardware store to match the threaded end
What is the difference between diesel fuel hose for a truck or what you refer to as "marine grade" fuel hose? I'd submit the boat engine is likely a less severe environment than a truck with rain, slush, road sand and salt blasting it for years. Most of the hardware stores near boating centers carry marine products often at lower prices than marine stores in my experience.