Diesel Engine Removal

Plymouth Sailor

Plymouth Sailor

.
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
Dear Fellow Sailors,

I need some wisdom in removing my inboard engine. The engine itself works well but the oil pan leaks and the transmission is shot. I need to disconnect the propeller shaft, pull the engine forward then lift it up to get to the pan and then remove the transmission to match to a new one. Never worked on a diesel so your wisdom appreciated!
 
jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,906
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Lots of processes. Involved. My experience it is very dependent, what steps to take are based on the structure you are facing ( i.e. steps for removal based on your transmission and engine configuration ).

My engine/transmission weighs in at about 1000 lb. The project was disassembled into Three parts. We used an A-frame lift, block and tackle To remove the engine while at the dock in the water. Some can use a crane. Reinstall is planned for use of a boom crane while the boat is in the yard.

Take lots of pictures from all angles of the engine/transmission before you begin. Organize the images as you take your engine apart. It will help with putting it back together.

Took two of us to disassemble and remove the transmission and the engine head. The block required three.

Post some images of your project here so we can get perspective as to what you are facing.
 
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Plymouth Sailor

Plymouth Sailor

.
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
jssailem said:
Lots of processes. Involved. My experience it is very dependent, what steps to take are based on the structure you are facing ( i.e. steps for removal based on your transmission and engine configuration ).

My engine/transmission weighs in at about 1000 lb. The project was disassembled into Three parts. We used an A-frame lift, block and tackle To remove the engine while at the dock in the water. Some can use a crane. Reinstall is planned for use of a boom crane while the boat is in the yard.

Take lots of pictures from all angles of the engine/transmission before you begin. Organize the images as you take your engine apart. It will help with putting it back together.

Took two of us to disassemble and remove the transmission and the engine head. The block required three.

Post some images of your project here so we can get perspective as to what you are facing.
Click to expand
Thank you, luckily my engine is not so heavy (smaller boat). I’ll ratchet it forward first then ratchet it up after taking many pics!
 
jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,906
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I used a 4x4 across the Companion way to attach the block and tackle. I had to the move the engine about 4ft forward to be able to life vertically.

Once I had detached the transmission from the shaft coupling the shaft no longer was holding the engine down. Then I was able to remove the engine from the mounting blocks.

I found plastic bins handy to put all the parts into. Numbered them so I could remember the sequence used to remove them. The attachments to the engine were plentiful. Wires, hoses, coolers/filters, manifolds. Marking the various adjustment fittings will help with the alignment when you go to reinstall.
 
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D

dlochner

.
Jan 11, 2014
12,799
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
it may be possible to remove the transmission without removing or moving the engine. Disconnect the flange and slide the shaft back as far as it will go, remove the shift cable and undo the bolts, there are probably 6 or 8 bolts. Once the bolts are removed, slide the transmission aft and lift it out. There will be a splined shaft that enters the engine. The transmission will be fairly light, probably about 50 lbs. most of the transmission housing is empty. Unless you are certain the transmission is toast, it can probably be rebuilt for about half the cost of a new one. Find a good marine transmission shop nearby. If you want to travel, I've used East Coast Marine Transmissions in NJ and highly recommend him. You can also ship the transmission to him. Replace the damper plate when you change the transmission. You will most likely need to change the flange too, replace it with a split coupling, a little more expensive but worth every penny.

A 4x4 across the companion way and a come-a-long or block and tackle can be used to lift the transmission engine. It really depends on where the engine is located relative to to the companionway. Have lots of cardboard or cheap luan plywood on the cabin sole to protect it. Do not move the bottom nut on the engine mounts, this will make engine alignment much easier when you put it back together.

I have also used Fred Warner for transmission parts, they are a good firm and easy to work with. Richie at East Coast Marine Transmissions recommended them.

IMG_0162.jpeg

The block and tackle is attached to the boom. The aft end of the boom is supported by the main halyard. I only needed to lift the engine a few inches to access 2 bolts holding the transmission on. This is a 33hp Yanmar 3JH2E.

IMG_0472.jpeg

The inside of a toasted transmission. This transmission failed when the fluid leaked out and seized.

IMG_0491.jpeg

The forward side of the new transmission that attaches to the engine. The red cap is protecting the spline that fits into the engine.

IMG_0492.jpeg

The aft side of the new transmission.

IMG_1038.jpeg

And this is what happens when some incompetent mechanic uses 7/16" bolts instead of the 10 mm bolts. :huh:
 
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S

sesmith

.
Jul 1, 2010
990
Catalina 350 Port Huron
Probably easiest to remove the transmission and send it out for rebuilding and just lift the engine high enough to do the pan. How's your cutlass bearing and dripless seal or packing? Time to do all that now if you need to. If you do pull the engine or raise it enough you could pull the shaft into the boat, so no need to deal with the coupling, and you'd just have to pull the prop.
 
FastOlson

FastOlson

.
Apr 8, 2010
2,095
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
I removed our old (approx) 265# three cylinder diesel, with trans, by winching it up thru the hatch with the main halyard. A housetop 30ST winch (with ten inch handle) worked fine. A second loop of line went from one cockpit primary winch around the hoisting line and then to the other primary. This allowed me to position the hoist for fore n aft position. Next we used the boom to swing it out and over the side to the dock to wheel it away. When using the boom, the main halyard has to be tied to the boom inline with the lift point for the engine.

I did remove the starter and alternator and HE first to lighten the load a bit. Transmission was left attached since it was also being replaced and because it was a minor part of the whole load.
The new engine, complete, was moved from dock to interior of boat, reversing the process.
 
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