Did a Oday 192 dry run on my driveway. I have LOTS of questions!

[EnamrdSalr21]

Hey All!

I put my mast up today to get a feel for my boat. It was quite difficult. Need some help with questions that arose from this experience... I'll ask them in multiple threads to try and keep everything straight.

To start off... What do I do with my boom? It appears there is no topping lift. Do I just let the sail hold up the boom once it's raised? My Cal 21 had a topping lift so I'm just used to that. I looked at some photos of other peoples boats and it looks like they have some kind of mechanism used as a topping lift, but none of the photos showed the whole thing. Help!

Adding an example of what looks like a topping lift on someones boat from a YouTube video.

 

[EnamrdSalr21]

Top of my mast for reference… there’s a pulley up top but it’s facing the bow not the stern. Not sure the point of that?

 

[Tally Ho]

Just guessing, but that pulley (better called a block) is probably for your jib. Or a spinnaker, but I doubt your boat flies a spinnaker.

it looks like there is another halyard under the mast, which I assume you’ll be for your mai sail halyard.

Aren’t these puzzles fun?

 

[EnamrdSalr21]

Just guessing, but that pulley (better called a block) is probably for your jib. Or a spinnaker, but I doubt your boat flies a spinnaker.

it looks like there is another halyard under the mast, which I assume you’ll be for your mai sail halyard.

Aren’t these puzzles fun?

Thank you for the correction- still working the equipment lingo. There is another block lower on the mast where the jib halyard is already attached. It does look odd though. Wondering if maybe it is attached to the wrong block and I should actually have it attached higher up? I'll attach a pic so you know what I'm talking about. Or perhaps it actually is for a halyard?

Fun puzzles!

 

[Tally Ho]

I don’t know much about the 192… so, maybe the top one is a spinnaker halyard…and the lower one is the jib halyard.

i found this manual, and on page 4, figure 8 seems to show the jib below the top of the mast.

O'Day 192 Operating And Rigging Instructions (Page 4 of 4) | ManualsLib

www.manualslib.com

Greg

 

[Will Gilmore]

The block is for a spinnaker. Probable an asymmetrical spinnaker. It was installed by a pervious owner who did a little class racing.

In your photograph, that is a topping lift. It also was installed by a previous owner. Iknow this because on the backstay, you will see a loop of cable splice into the stay with a clip on the end. Your photo shows it clipped back on the backstay. That is called a pigtail. It is the original boom support when not sailing. The same on my O'Day Mariner 19. Otherwise, the sail will supports the boom. No topping lift was used. I'm not a fan of pigtails because you have to drop the boom into the cockpit before raising the sail. Otherwise, a wind could catch the sail before you've unclipped the pigtail, and that's no fun.

Congratulations on your new 192. I have heard excellent things about them. A lot of fun and excellent sailers.

-Will

 

[Will Gilmore]

The 192, like the Mariner 19, is a fractional sloop rig. That means the forestay attaches below the masthead. That will be where the jib halyard is also attached because the jib was designed to use the forestay for luff support.

Your "asym", or asymmetric spinnaker will also have a tack point installed at the bow. It will be a plate with a hole, often on a short bowsprit, outside, or ahead of the bow plate for the forestay. That is where the tack of the asym will attach. Spinnakers on these little boats are not normally factory installed. But they were often designed to work with one.

-Will

 

[EnamrdSalr21]

The block is for a spinnaker. Probable an asymmetrical spinnaker. It was installed by a pervious owner who did a little class racing.

In your photograph, that is a topping lift. It also was installed by a previous owner. Iknow this because on the backstay, you will see a loop of cable splice into the stay with a clip on the end. Your photo shows it clipped back on the backstay. That is called a pigtail. It is the original boom support when not sailing. The same on my O'Day Mariner 19. Otherwise, the sail will supports the boom. No topping lift was used. I'm not a fan of pigtails because you have to drop the boom into the cockpit before raising the sail. Otherwise, a wind could catch the sail before you've unclipped the pigtail, and that's no fun.

Congratulations on your new 192. I have heard excellent things about them. A lot of fun and excellent sailers.

-Will

Hey Will!

Thanks for the reply! That photo that I posted was an example from another boat I saw on YouTube. My boat does not have that topping lift unfortunately. Just the pigtail. I'm thinking maybe I can install one because it seems like it would be useful based on my past experience and other people's comments as well. Here's a photo of my pigtail attached to the boom. I've used a pigtail before, but only as a secondary hold on the boom. I am very excited about this boat, just want to equip it as efficiently as possible.

Cheers!

 

[EnamrdSalr21]

The 192, like the Mariner 19, is a fractional sloop rig. That means the forestay attaches below the masthead. That will be where the jib halyard is also attached because the jib was designed to use the forestay for luff support.

Your "asym", or asymmetric spinnaker will also have a tack point installed at the bow. It will be a plate with a hole, often on a short bowsprit, outside, or ahead of the bow plate for the forestay. That is where the tack of the asym will attach. Spinnakers on these little boats are not normally factory installed. But they were often designed to work with one.

-Will

Did you see the photo I posted of the block for the jib. It just seems sideways to me. I'll repost the pic for reference:

 

[Will Gilmore]

I saw the pic. It looks pretty standard. It will depend on how the jib is cut.

-Will

 

[shemandr]

I think the jib halyard block is OK in that configuration. It doesn't have to be fore - aft. It could be argued that it is better that way. If I were the OP I would make the jib halyard internal by installing an exit block to replace that block and the external halyard and put some properly sized modern cordage for the jib halyard. It isn't a difficult job when the mast is down. It will be cleaner. It looks to me like that rig could be simplified overall.
The pig tail would be down the list a bit for me.

 

[EnamrdSalr21]

I think the jib halyard block is OK in that configuration. It doesn't have to be fore - aft. It could be argued that it is better that way. If I were the OP I would make the jib halyard internal by installing an exit block to replace that block and the external halyard and put some properly sized modern cordage for the jib halyard. It isn't a difficult job when the mast is down. It will be cleaner. It looks to me like that rig could be simplified overall.
The pig tail would be down the list a bit for me.

Thank you! The cordage was a definite upgrade on my checklist. Would the exit block require me to cut into the mast and weld back together?

 

[jssailem]

There is another block lower on the mast where the jib halyard is already attached.

It just seems sideways to me.

Doing a dry run and setting up your boat is a smart move. It will give you time to make sure the lines are running free.

As @Will Gilmore shares, the 192 is a fractional rig. The sail plan below confirms that.

One thing to consider is the diameter of the running rigging (halyards). The blocks are designed to allow the lines to run freely through them. If the line is too large, it can chafe and add friction to your handling of the line.

Selecting running rigging. Boat builders of modern designs tend to give owners manuals ("Cheat Sheets") about their rigging. When you don't have a cheat sheet, it helps to learn the thinking associated with their development.

Line: I like to start with the line diameter. There are two types of running rigging, Halyards and sheets.
When looking at halyards, small is better (less weight aloft), but it needs to be large enough for you to get a grip. This is often described as "Feel."

This rope maker provides some sizes to match various boat sizes.

Rope diameter advice - how thick should your sailing ropes be?

Rope diameter advice: check out our guidelines for the diameter of mooring ropes, sheets and halyards for your boat.

www.premiumropes.com

Based on boat size, your 192 would use a halyard size of 8 to 10 mm in diameter. The line size would have an approximate circumference of 25 to 30mm.

I learned the basic rule of thumb for block size: it should be two times the circumference of the line.
This would equate to a 50 -70mm block for the above line size.

Blocks: They come in a variety of sizes. Harken makes good blocks for daysailing or coastal cruising.

https://www.harken.com/en/shop/small-boat-classic-292/

You can also find good hardware at reasonable price points from Garhauer Marine.

https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/

For your jib halyard, I would source a single swivel block. This would address the issue you questioned.

Examine the block. There may be dirt in the swivel, stopping it from moving.

 

[shemandr]

No Welding. You would have to cut a hole in the mast but it is relatively small. A jig saw with a blade for metal will make short work of it. Note that an exit plate is different than an exit block. You may need one of those too to bring the halyard out of the mast at the bottom depending on how your deck is configured.
Harken is good but other brands will do fine and cost less.

Search Products | West Marine

Search West Marine's massive catalog of products ranging from boat parts & supplies, fishing gear & equipment, apparel, paddling and much more!

www.westmarine.com

 

[jssailem]

Would the exit block require me to cut into the mast and wells weld back together?

When you have a big enough mast, you can run your halyards inside the mast at the top and have them exit it near the base. Large boats are often rigged in this fashion. Selden makes single and double fittings like these.

However, this may not be practical for a smaller boat with a smaller mast.

On a fractional rig (like yours), the block sits outside the mast below where the forestay connects. About 1 to 2 feet below the block, you can cut a hole for an "exit plate".

Exit Plates

You would do the same, about 7-8 feet above the deck, to have the halyard exit the mast.

It seems like a lot of work on a mast less than 30 ft.

Running your lines outside the mast is easy and economical—that is why your boat builder did it.

No welding is required, and the fittings are often riveted in place.

 

[pgandw]

On your photo of the masthead, the backstay attaches to a pin on the rear of the mast crane. On my Mariner, I simply tied my topping to the same pin, ran it through a block at the aft end of the boom and to a cam cleat I mounted at mid-boom. This gives me an adjustable topping lift that stays clear of the main sail when it is up.

Fred W
Stuart (ODay) Mariner #4133 Sweet P

 

[jssailem]

When you have raised the sail, the sail should hold the boom in place. This will give you your best sail form.

When the sail is lowered, a topping lift or a boom crutch can help you hold the boom above your head in the cockpit.

 

[EnamrdSalr21]

On your photo of the masthead, the backstay attaches to a pin on the rear of the mast crane. On my Mariner, I simply tied my topping to the same pin, ran it through a block at the aft end of the boom and to a cam cleat I mounted at mid-boom. This gives me an adjustable topping lift that stays clear of the main sail when it is up.

Fred W
Stuart (ODay) Mariner #4133 Sweet P

This is kinda what I was thinking.

Doing a dry run and setting up your boat is a smart move. It will give you time to make sure the lines are running free.

As @Will Gilmore shares, the 192 is a fractional rig. The sail plan below confirms that.
View attachment 230995

One thing to consider is the diameter of the running rigging (halyards). The blocks are designed to allow the lines to run freely through them. If the line is too large, it can chafe and add friction to your handling of the line.

Selecting running rigging. Boat builders of modern designs tend to give owners manuals ("Cheat Sheets") about their rigging. When you don't have a cheat sheet, it helps to learn the thinking associated with their development.

Line: I like to start with the line diameter. There are two types of running rigging, Halyards and sheets.
When looking at halyards, small is better (less weight aloft), but it needs to be large enough for you to get a grip. This is often described as "Feel."

This rope maker provides some sizes to match various boat sizes.

Rope diameter advice - how thick should your sailing ropes be?

Rope diameter advice: check out our guidelines for the diameter of mooring ropes, sheets and halyards for your boat.

www.premiumropes.com

Based on boat size, your 192 would use a halyard size of 8 to 10 mm in diameter. The line size would have an approximate circumference of 25 to 30mm.

I learned the basic rule of thumb for block size: it should be two times the circumference of the line.
This would equate to a 50 -70mm block for the above line size.

Blocks: They come in a variety of sizes. Harken makes good blocks for daysailing or coastal cruising.

https://www.harken.com/en/shop/small-boat-classic-292/

You can also find good hardware at reasonable price points from Garhauer Marine.

https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/

For your jib halyard, I would source a single swivel block. This would address the issue you questioned.

Examine the block. There may be dirt in the swivel, stopping it from moving.

This is really helpful info. I would feel much better about the boat with updated running rigging. Cost will certainly play into how quickly I'm able to get everything replaced. Will keep everyone updated as I make improvements. Glad to have this info to come back to as I make necessary adjustments!

 

[Will Gilmore]

I wouldn't get hung up around putting your halyards inside your mast. The 192 is a trailersailer. As such, the mast comes down often. Larger boats, moored in marinas or on mooring balls, have to worry about halyard slap and the annoying noise as well as wear on rigging from the constant winds and waves. Don't spend more sailing time than you need to making your boat perfect. That external jib halyard will serve you well.

-Will

 

[Will Gilmore]

I hadn't realized this about the 192, but it looks like you have roller boom furling/reefing. Most Mariner 19 owners don't realize it, but their original end boom sheeting and Crosby rig (the triangular pattern of sheet and blocks attached between port and starboard stern quarters and the end of the boom) were designed to work with a roller boom furler. Many owners switch to mid-boom sheeting without even realizing what they're giving up. Research what that roller furling means at the gooseneck and the boom end. It would be pretty convenient for reefing.

-Chill Will