More info re: mast steps and stuff.
Joe's 222 had a Z-spar mast, which had a casting that looked like heat exchange fins. This was so that internally routed halyards could exit the base and go to a sheave in the casting. This is the same casting as for the 192.
A friend dropped his 192 Z-spar mast rigging for launch this year, and broke the casting and the deck plate. I got him in touch with Rigrite.com, and the new casting and deck plate look entirely different. It scared him. But I had a look at it, and determined that some changes would be made. The casting itself no longer is as tall, because the sheave is gone. The deck plate has wings along the sides with holes, such that you bolt stud blocks so it is more like a halyard organizer plate. So now we have to cut a hole in the side of the mast above the base to exit the halyard because it will turn upwards through this stud block, external of the base. We will also have to do some figuring for the masthead steaming/anchor light. Because the casting itself isn't as tall, they include a 1 3/4" thick UHDPE block drilled to accept the 4 through deck bolts. So we had to order longer bolts to go through the deck.
Again, this is all applicable to a 222-192 Z-spars mast. These two boats also shipped with a Dwyer mast, which uses a completely different casting and deck hinge. Both these 2 masts are different than DHaranSailor (Michael) shows from his boat.
Joe's 222 had a Z-spar mast, which had a casting that looked like heat exchange fins. This was so that internally routed halyards could exit the base and go to a sheave in the casting. This is the same casting as for the 192.
A friend dropped his 192 Z-spar mast rigging for launch this year, and broke the casting and the deck plate. I got him in touch with Rigrite.com, and the new casting and deck plate look entirely different. It scared him. But I had a look at it, and determined that some changes would be made. The casting itself no longer is as tall, because the sheave is gone. The deck plate has wings along the sides with holes, such that you bolt stud blocks so it is more like a halyard organizer plate. So now we have to cut a hole in the side of the mast above the base to exit the halyard because it will turn upwards through this stud block, external of the base. We will also have to do some figuring for the masthead steaming/anchor light. Because the casting itself isn't as tall, they include a 1 3/4" thick UHDPE block drilled to accept the 4 through deck bolts. So we had to order longer bolts to go through the deck.
Again, this is all applicable to a 222-192 Z-spars mast. These two boats also shipped with a Dwyer mast, which uses a completely different casting and deck hinge. Both these 2 masts are different than DHaranSailor (Michael) shows from his boat.