Damper plate noise

[Witzend]

I posted this in the "ALL", but not getting much response. I'm getting some rattling noises when in idle or low RPM. The manual indicates worn damper plate. I re-aligned the shaft this spring after raising the motor due to the mounts settling over the years. This miss-alignment has caused some wear on the cutlass bearing, that I will eventually need to deal with (no play at this time). My point being the rattling is not caused by the shaft hitting the boat exit hole as before. I'm guessing it is the damper plate. Has anyone ever changed it on a 310? It would seem from the exploded drawing attached that the bell housing will need to come aft considerably to allow for clearance. When I disconnect the coupling I only have a few inches of clearance max, so then I would need to pull the motor! yuck!!

 

[rpwillia]

Not sure about the damper plate

In fact you are stretching my mechanical abilities. But, in the manual the minimum rpm is 1000. At 1000 or above any vibration I have is considerably reduced. I still have a little rattle at very low idle when in gear that a new cutless bearing and a flexible coupling have not completely eliminated.

 

[Witzend]

Mine idle is set to 1K also, but I found a comment on one of the work orders that the PO provided that indicates that it was increased to help with the vibration issue. I talked with the fellow that I just purchased a damper plate from and he indicated the biggest thing that takes these plates out was idle vibration. The idea that sailing in FWD is wearing out the plate was absurd to him as well. The problem with not replacing the plate after the springs become compressed and start rattling around (this is what you are hearing) is that the tranny input spline starts to wear and could eventually strip out. Also the springs could fall out and then the plate separates.

 

[rpwillia]

I will have to RTFM on this ...

as it sounds like a simple preventative thing, but a major pain/problem if you let it go too long.

 

[Witzend]

Hey RP, where did you purchase your Flex Coupling?

 

[Witzend]

Here is what I have found so far:
http://www.pyiinc.com/images/pdf/rd/RD Flexible Shaft Couplings TX.pdf
Manufactured by R&D 910-014 is spec-ed for the 2:1 ratio, I will check my ratio.
$173.00

 

[Witzend]

910-014 Flex-coupling cheeper @getaprop.com
http://www.getaprop.com/content-product_info/product_id-7953/r_d_flex_coupling_910_014.html
$147.00

 

[paulj]

Witzend
How many engine hours do you have?

paulj :troll:

 

[Witzend]

525hrs, and I know that is low for these kinds of problems, but I really need engine mounts too. They have settled significantly during the POs possession and as a result the drive system is been stressed. I corrected for the gross miss-alignment, but want to prevent further damage to the tranny. I plan to do the engine mounts, cutlass bearing and damper plate when I'm on the hard next, but can add the flex coupling immediately.

 

[Tom J]

I suspect I have the same problem. 895 hrs. on the engine now, but the rattle has been there since about 50 hrs. The surveyor told me engine RPM should be 900RPM, but I encountered severe vibration problems, so I reset it to manual recommended 1200 RPM. Not much vibration now. By the way, I had the cutlass bearing replaced without removing the shaft. The local marine service came to the yard with a machine that pulled out the old bearing and pushed in the new one. Cost $175 and was well worth it.
You've got me thinking it might be time to pull the trannny!

 

[Witzend]

BTW, MS has indicated in a private email about this that it is not so much the spline that wears from a worn damper plate, but more likely the edges of the plate where the springs contact it, causing the springs to become loose. I would agree with him here, but he also did not think the noise we are hearing could be the damper plate, but more likely from the tranny. I'm not sure, but I can tell you the longer it is left in place the harder it is going to get the bell housing separated and the bolts connecting it to the fly wheel out. I'm hoping someone here has done this job before and pipes in about it.

 

[rpwillia]

Here is what I have found so far:
http://www.pyiinc.com/images/pdf/rd/RD Flexible Shaft Couplings TX.pdf
Manufactured by R&D 910-014 is spec-ed for the 2:1 ratio, I will check my ratio.
$173.00

Witzend, I have the PYI [FONT=&quot]R&D Part 103-307 [/FONT]coupling. I think I only paid about $130 for it direct from the PYI web site. Been pretty happy with it and the install was pretty easy. Also, there is one bolt on the whole gizmo that you can use to check shaft alignment which makes it very very easy. Very worthwhile upgrade.

 

[Witzend]

Well that confusing, PYI indicates that I need the 910-014. On thier web site I don't see a 103-307. The 103-037 is for the earthing connector used for grounding for the 910-014. Did you buy the grounding connector? Is it realy necessary? They now wanted $173.00. GetaProp $147 cheepest so far.

 

[paulj]

Try these guys for information .

http://www.foleyengines.com/FreeTechnicalInfo/DrDieselTechTips/MarineCoolersandCouplers.aspx

paulj :troll:

 

[Witzend]

Yea, I talked with these guys about the damper plate. They wanted almost $300 for it. I purchased the hurth part#H3306316001 for $125.00 from Federal Marine Co. but had to push him on the price. Apparently if you order the Universal #299156 it is twice as expensive.

Good info on the web site though.

 

[rpwillia]

Correction

Well that confusing, PYI indicates that I need the 910-014. On thier web site I don't see a 103-307. The 103-037 is for the earthing connector used for grounding for the 910-014. Did you buy the grounding connector? Is it realy necessary? They now wanted $173.00. GetaProp $147 cheepest so far.

Witzend, You are correct, that was the part number for the earthing connector. I did get the 910-014. The grounding connector is a waste of time and $$$. All it is a little piece of conductive rubber you roll up inside the whole thing. It works, but a piece of copper wire wrapped across both sides would be just as effective.

 

[Witzend]

Witzend, You are correct, that was the part number for the earthing connector. I did get the 910-014. The grounding connector is a waste of time and $$$. All it is a little piece of conductive rubber you roll up inside the whole thing. It works, but a piece of copper wire wrapped across both sides would be just as effective.

That's what I suspected. I guess I will order mine from getaprop, hope I can fit it in???

 

[Witzend]

You know the folks at Folly talk about the advantages of using a
Flex, "Flex couplings also prevent electrolysis and resulting corrosion" One must assume that the shaft becomes isolated from the motor electrically in order to have this stated benifit. Why then would you want to re-connect it??

 

[paulj]

Will you guys please figure this out so when I do mine I will not have to think to hard.

Maybe MAIN SAIL has a common sense solution?


"You know the folks at Folly talk about the advantages of using a
Flex, "Flex couplings also prevent electrolysis and resulting corrosion" One must assume that the shaft becomes isolated from the motor electrically in order to have this stated benifit. Why then would you want to re-connect it?? "


Page 167
http://books.google.com/books?id=KzfnP_2ys2UC&pg=PA167&lpg=PA167&dq=sail+boat+engine+grounding&source=bl&ots=PHx4LFzt0C&sig=OzKYEuLlXGKG2gQwfOKds9nSLb4&hl=en&ei=Tlk0SsTLJYT-tQP6tsSrDg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1#PPA164,M1



Who is this guy Don Casey lurking in the sadows anyway.

paulj :troll:

 

[Witzend]

From an electrical stand point it makes more sense to have a single point of ground. This minimizes the possibility of ground loops. The problem with out 310s is I don't think there is an exposed ground plate in the keel. Grounding to the keel bolts without one is useless. The real problem with lighting strikes is that you are dealing with so much current it becomes un-predictable. Sparky will find the path of least resistance, and this will change depending on how much current is being sinked. The approach this article takes is a good one, executing it in a complex boat such a the 310 is another problem entirely. The heavily rusted coupling I currently have is providing little low voltage ground, but would provide a path during a strike. Since my electrical systems seem to be running well regardless of have no low voltage ground to earth, I think I will take my chances and completely isolate the shaft. This should slow down the electrolysis, besides I'm more likely to get in an auto accident going to my boat that it getting struck by lighting.