Cutless bearing replacement questions

[AXEL]

I am planning to replace the cutless bearing this season on my 2000 Catalina 30 MKIII. I have started trying to loosen the coupling and shaft. The coupling screws are starting to turn but the shaft screws are in there pretty good. As I look up alternatives I see I could cut the coupling in half. A replacement coupling is about $220. I read that a new one should be faced or fitted to the shaft ($50).
I have seen a tool made by Strut Pro that can remove the old bearing without removing the shaft. The cost for the tool is around $350. It looks like either way I'm in it for $300 - $400. Buying this tool would make the job easier (maybe) assuming the bearing coming out ok and doesn't bind.
What to do?

 

[Charles Erwin]

This might work. It is a little bit of work to make but you might find it agreeable.

Maybe contact the fellow and see if he will loan?

http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/cutlass-bearing-extractor.182779/#post-1343904

Charles

 

[Gunni]

Me, I paid an engine tech service at the boatyard to replace my cutlass bearing which including pulling and replacing my MaxProp - $375 complete. As I remember he ran a corkscrew into the cutlass bearing and pulled it out.

 

[31seahorse]

Hello AXEL, I believe you must be using some type of penetrating fluid on the coupling and the screws. If not, start flooding the parts now. Some heat later on might help too, but probably not in close succession. Read the labels, because the fluid might be flammable. Some tapping with a small hammer would be OK too. There will be shaft keys in there too which will complicate removal. Once the coupling is separated I have tapped out those keys prior to getting the coupling off the shaft. After the shaft is out then the work on the cutlass bearing can begin if you do not use the method Charles posted. The bearing will not likely come out easily and is perhaps held by set screws that might be difficult to find under bottom paint. Best Wishes

 

[whatfiero]

+1 on pay some one unless you plan to Change cutless often owning the tool will not be beneficial

 

[Tally Ho]

I replaced my cutlass bearing without pulling the shaft, using a tool my brother-in-law fabricated for me.

I read something recently about someon who made something similar out of wood instead of metal. Not sure what he did for the collets. Search the forum.

I am planning to replace my shaft over the winter, but am not looking forward to separating the coupling from the shaft. Since I plan to replace the shaft, I can cut it to remove it, but I am going to try to press the coupling off (using parts of my strut bearing removal tool.

Good luck.

Greg

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Do a search for "cutlass removal" in the archives. I remember someone did a write up on making your own puller from various parts and at the time I thought it had promise. Of course I can't find it now.

 

[AXEL]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. Yes I have flooded the parts with PB Blaster. I have applied heat. I managed to get the coupler bolts lose but the ones holding the shaft aren't budging yet. I have talked with the boatyard and they told me they would cut the shaft. It is cheaper for them and me rather than spending (and paying) by the hour to get the hardware off the shaft. A new shaft will cost around $250 - $350. The coupling should be replaced and fitted (faced) to the new shaft (another $300+). The yard will charge $1000+ (labor and parts). I'm hoping to do this myself. I am thinking about building a tool to remove the cutless bearing without removing the shaft. But perhaps buying one for $300+ could be an investment. I could always sell it or rent it out and get some money back.

 

[capta]

Heat is your friend in this case! Heat the coupling and not the screws and the expansion of the coupling should allow the screws to easily come out.
I've already got enough expensive tools on board I bought for one job that I'll most likely never use again. Of course, you could start a tool rental business.

 

[dziedzicmj]

There is a current post on the cutless bearing removal tool (http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/cutlass-bearing-extractor.182779/). When you search, search for both proper spelling (cutless) and the wrong one (cutlass).

 

[AXEL]

Thanks for the heat suggestion. I had heated the coupling at the shaft screws. I was hopping the expansion and contraction would allow the screws to break loose. I will hold the torch on the coupling only and give that a try.
Dziedzicmj, I saw that thread, thx. Making the tool, even from wood could be tricky. The guy in that thread has a wood working shop. The tool really should be precision. I would be using hand tools. Getting this job done is not that bad, trying to save a few bucks is the challenge!

 

[njlarry]

Why do you have to remove the coupling? I worry that you can open up a whole new can of worms. I would either make a cutless bearing removing tool, rent one maybe from a prop shop, or more likely pay the yard. They should last many years so you may never need to do it again.
Good luck, let us know how you make out.

 

[AXEL]

Yes the more the job gets involved the bigger the can of worms. If all the parts would just come off easy and go back together it would be simple. If I can save a few bucks I would prefer to do the work myself. Lucky I have all winter to think about it, take my time, soak (PB Blaster), heat, soak more, etc. think and research.

 

[njlarry]

I'm with you there. I do 99% of the work on my boat, not only to save some money but also to learn and know that it was done right. However I think that it is probably cheaper to have a yard replace a cutless than invest money and time on it. Rather than remove or more likely replace the shaft, coupling and other parts, another option is to remove the strut and press out the bearing. It will of course present it's own can of worms.

 

[seadaddler]

Check out Mainsail's web site and really helped when I did my cutless bearing.
Nick

 

[AXEL]

Besides my passion for sailing, I am also a musician. I met a drummer last night who is also a machinist (has his own shop). I discussed the popular cutless bearing tool (Strut Pro design) and he said he could make one for me for a fraction of the cost. That makes this option much more accessible to me now. I am going to start to draw up the plans to have one made. I am still going to continue to try and loosen the hardware on the coupler. In addition now I will need to try and get the prop off. I'll be off to Harbor Freight for a gear puller and more PB Blaster.

 

[seadaddler]

About 3 years ago I did take my shaft out and when disconnecting the coupling I did need to use heat but only with one of those small bernz amatic torch and I followed what Mainsail instructions and had never done this before.
It was so very helpful to see as Mainsail had photo's and instructions and it was not easy but I did it with out anything breaking and no bleeding from me,some heat made the difference and Blaster alone did not do it it
and my boat is a 2007.
Nick

 

[DougM]

I would like to know more about the corkscrew method. The prop shaft on my boat is in a skeg so the cutlass bearing is inaccessible from the forward end. Since I sail in fresh water, corrosion is a minor concern so the setscrews holding the cutlass bearing sleeve should be easily removable. For that reason, I am thinking that I could just pull the prop, forget about removing the shaft, and just extract the old bearing. Then all I would need to do is slide a new one into place.
The only reason I could think of for pulling the prop shaft would be to replace the dripless seal.

 

[AXEL]

About 3 years ago I did take my shaft out and when disconnecting the coupling I did need to use heat but only with one of those small bernz amatic torch and I followed what Mainsail instructions and had never done this before.
It was so very helpful to see as Mainsail had photo's and instructions and it was not easy but I did it with out anything breaking and no bleeding from me,some heat made the difference and Blaster alone did not do it it
and my boat is a 2007.
Nick

All good advice. I have reviewed Mainesails instructions and do plan to use heat. A couple of years ago it took me 5 nights of heat and PB Blaster to get an exhaust elbow off. In the end, heat and PB prevailed.

 

[31seahorse]

Doug, I believe the "corkscrew method" that was mentioned was referring to opening a bottle of wine after the bearing replacement was complete!

Second option: Open the bottle of wine first and consume a goodly portion of it. After that the bearing vibration will be much less noticeable.