Cutlass strut re-bolt

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Jun 25, 2009
19
Moorman Annapolis 26 #62 Cherry Point, NC
After a bout with the nor'easter we had here in Norfolk in November, I'm forced to make a few extra repairs while the boat is on the hard. Painting the damaged and repaired transom is in order once the temperatures climb again, as is the repair to the bow cleat which pulled free and allowed the damage to occur in the first place (Insert criticism here for not backing it as project #1 when I got the old boat years ago). I've always had a very small weeping from one of the cutlass strut bolts. Pulling the bolts (and keeping the strut in place and not breaking the 5200 seal) revealed a rotted plywood backing. The backing has been replaced and re-glassed. I now need to install the bolts. Choices: 1) Drill the holes oversized, epoxy, drill smaller holes, countersink top (per Maine Sail's advice) and seal holes to bolt with 5200, or 2) Drill holes slightly oversized, install bolts (without the washers/nuts), epoxy bolts in place, then install bolt/washer per WestSystem guidance for through-bolted fasters. As a lurker here for years, any advice is appreciated!
 
Oct 2, 2006
1,517
Jboat J24 commack
My hull is solid in that area with a plywood backing plate inside

Is your hull solid Or cored as the drill large and epoxy is to protect areas with a core ?
 
Jun 25, 2009
19
Moorman Annapolis 26 #62 Cherry Point, NC
The hull is solid at that point, but the plywood backing is encapsulated in roving. Drilling larger, filling with more epoxy, then drilling smaller (and sealing with epoxy or 5200) would be to keep the integrity of the backing. I'm treating the problem as if the hull was cored in this area...wrong approach? Thanks again!
 
Oct 12, 2009
63
beneteau 321 digby
backing plates

im not sure what kind of a setup you have there but normally as far as I know you have a solid fiberglass hull below the waterline at least that is the case with the two hunters I have owned and the backing plate for the strut bolts would be made of solid aluminum or stainless and bedded in 5200 on the inside of the hull where the bolts come through and nyloc stainless nuts on the bolts.I would prefer this method as opposed to any wood below the waterline around a through hull fastener.as a recap you would bed the strut in 5200 insert the bolts have someone on the inside slide the stainless backing plates over the bolts with a bit of 5200 around where the bolts come through the hull then secure everything with nyloc stainless nuts or stainless nuts and lock washers that will make everything secure.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
If you are following Mainesail protocol you know to use butyl tape and by lurking to avoid 5200 as a bedding compound, due to its lack of flexibility. Drilling the holes oversized and potting them with epoxy and redrilling is always a good idea if wood is involved. I don't know about butyl tape underwater though.
 
Oct 2, 2006
1,517
Jboat J24 commack
This is underwater and a place were tape would NOT be the correct material it should be treated more like a keel
 
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