Cutlass bering replacement/shaft not removed

[sailaway78]

Going to get the boat out of the water next week, and repair the damage I did to the rudder during my recent grounding incident. The rudder itself is broken loose from the rudder post. From what I have learned, I think I can repair this without having to pull the rudder. Pulling the rudder on this boat (S37) will be a total nightmare, requiring Spider Man and his little brother, as nothing is even remotely accesable. It would be necessary to hire Spider Man, as I know I am no longer limber enough to get into that little hole, let alone do anything once I'm in there. Plus it will take two more pickups with the travel lift, ( one to remove, one to install) or to dig a hell of a big hole in the marina's yard. I would like to replace the cutlass bearing while the boat is out of the water, and am wondering how big of a hassle this is going to be, without being able to pull the shaft. I have changed cutlass bearings in the past, but never without pulling the shaft. Is it possible to split a piece of pipe the proper diameter, rig up a puller and get that puppy out without tearing something up. All ideas and opinions appreciated, and it is OK to tell me I am an idiot for even thinking about doing it this way.

 

[kenn]

There are some commercial products for cutless bearing removing, and some people have machined up their own shaft-on jigs, often from old cutless bearings... but my boss usually won't remove a cutless bearing without first taking out the shaft, then two careful cuts with a sawzall, tap out the segment with a small chisel etc etc. He also insists on freezing the new cutless bearing overnight and bring it to the job in a thermal bag, and it usually taps or pushes in easily.

If it's easy to get the coupling off of the shaft, and since you're hauling out, shaft removal might be the least hassle overall.

I hope the rudder repair isn't too much of a hassle.

 

[sailaway78]

Thanks for an idea

I had thought splitting a piece of pipe, but an old cutlass bearing makes more sense if I can find one. I think the existing bearing is OK, but since the boat will be out of the water, why not make sure. But if I am going to have to remove the rudder to replace it, will leave it be till it goes bad.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Phil, I take it you have a standard strut. If so, the C36 Association has a cutlass bearing tool. http://www.c36ia.com/node/447 You may need to sign up to the website (not necessarily join) to see the picture. I searched on the word tool and clicked on the cutlass bearing tool, third find result. Our C34 Chesapeake Bay Fleet has one too. I'm sure others will chime in here with their ideas, but it is doable. Many have posted "How To" articles for using the tool, I'll see if I can find some. Most of the issues have to deal with set screws, and freezing the new bearing while heating the old when inserting the new one.

 

[Stu Jackson]

http://www.c36ia.com/node/450

 

[Stu Jackson]

And didn't Maine Sail's website have something on this, too?

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass

 

[thereisabelle]

ok.. you know the rudder shaft is bent. I can't think of a way to staighten it with the rudder on unless you apply the same force that bent it in the opposite direction. not a good idea. your probably not the first person to come in the yard with a need to remove the rudder. there should be an area where the boat can be put on stands and the rudder over removable earth. replace the earth when finished. if the rudder shaft is bent it needs to come out. gravity is on your side now. as far as the prop shaft goes if the rudder will pass by, remove the coupling bolts and turn by hand.the friction or force needed should reflect the wear in the cutless. it would indicate wether the prop shaft it bent also. last i checked it cost $250.00 to lift our boat and bring it to rest in slings. more to put it on stands. then a daily rate to stay. with that in mind i think i would have all the ducks in a row. tools, help, material and parts. transportation to and from the shop where they keep the aligators. keep in mind things heatup faster than they cool down. a cutless bearing in a bucket with dry ice and acetone will take at least 45 min. to shrink .0015 - .002" and spiderman better be ready. check the hole diam. vs bearing diam. before freezeing, and with the bearing at cold diam. does anyone ther have a thru hole jack. the're expensive but maby you could rent one. good luck.. jimbob

 

[RAD]

I had my marina replace mine and he did it with shaft in for 150 New York dollars........ parts and labor

 

[Surveyor]

You could get the rudder ready to drop while the boat is still in the water waiting to be lifted. Drop the rudder on the first lift, the rudder shaft is only about 3' longer than the rudder on the Seidelmann 37. I'm 6'4 and in my younger days I could get back there to the quadrant bolts.
The rudder repair will be a lot easier horizontally on horses then trying to work on it vertically. The rudder bearings probably need attention too. Reinstall the rudder on the launch lift.

The strut bearing is a separate issue. If you have the tools no need to remove the prop shaft.

 

[rpwillia]

Make your own

As long as the cutless bearing has not been in there 20 years it should come out fairly easy.

I replaced the Cutless bearing on my 310 with a tool I made myself. I cut two pieces of 3/4" copper pipe (same length) and then cut them down the length in half and laid them over the shaft offset so they filled it out and met the cutless bearing on the outer edge. The puller portion was made of wood with a 1" hole saw and the cut down the middle and pieced back together with threaded rod and bolts. Back end had a 1-1/4 hole. These two pieces were joined together with threaded rod. Tightened down, tapped a little and it popped out.

 

[Don12364]

You Need One of These.

I made mine from an old bearing - found in the yard's dumpster.
Lust saw a 1" wide slot out of one side, slip over the shaft, remove the existing coupling's grub screws and tap the sleeve along gently.
Note:- Only works if existing bearing has decent thickness of metal sleeve. Cheapo tuphnol sleeve types don't have enough strength to be pushed out!

Pic below shows before and after cutting.
Good luck.

 

[greg17887]

I have a question? I have a ringing sounding sound coming from my ( I think) cuttless bearing. I have pulled the engine swaped out the tranmistion and replaced the packing in the stoffing box. Have any of you had a similiar experience?
Thanks for any help you give.