Cotter Pins vs Cotter Rings...

Davidasailor26 · May 12, 2026

I haven’t had a swing keel like that, but in many years of sailing I’ve never had a cotter pin on standing rigging turnbuckles fail. I’d probably use one on a swing keel clevis pin without a second thought if that were the original equipment.

Carl Wonderful said:
And just to stir things up... are you a only 15% bend one sort of sailor or a bend em both around to hug the pin kinda guy (or gal)?

The usual argument I’ve heard for only partially bending cotter pins in standing rigging is to allow easy removal in an emergency. I wouldn’t expect that to be a big need for a swing keel pin, so I’d probably bend that one around as far and tight as possible.

Project_Mayhem · May 12, 2026

Rings often fail due to damage. Pins rarely do.

colemj · May 12, 2026

Trust the cotter pin. Bend it 20* or so. The reason not to bend more is because the work hardening weakens it. And there just isn't any need to do so unless the ends are catching on something and you can't cut them any shorter. Cutting them shorter is the proper way to deal with this. A 20* separation of the pin legs will be enough to keep the pin in tight.

Your intuition on rings vs pins for strength or reliability is leading you wrong.

Rings are useful if the clevis pin needs to be removed somewhat regularly. We have some in that use. Otherwise cotter pins.

Mark

cephius (Dave) · May 13, 2026

Cotter pins are not usually load bearing. If you have 600 lbs bearing on it, I would be nervous too. It should be preventing the load bearing hardware from shifting.

sailme88 · May 13, 2026

Our club steps the membership masts. WE require ring pins. Given the frugality of sailors, rings are easily used and re-used. Cotter pins are a one and done and should never be straightened to re-use as that action leads to unseen stress fractures. Rings that have been subjected to incorrect strain will tend to lose their roundness and start to open, an action that cn easily spotted and corrected.

Project_Mayhem · May 13, 2026

Carl Wonderful said:
So are rings made from a different material which causes them to fail, or are they just more susceptible to damage somehow because of their shape?

I would think pins would be the ones damaged due to things catching on their sharp-ish ends sticking out?

Shape, material, and thickness I would assume. They get caught and deform or are bashed and then deform. Once they deform, they are able to work themselves loose. I've found them completely missing on my rigging.

Pins, if done correctly, are low profile and have no sharp edges to catch on anything and can only be removed with pliers or by cutting them. The upper ball joint on your car likely use castle nuts secured with pins. It's a pretty crucial component that will surely cause damage and/or an accident if it fails.

Project_Mayhem · May 13, 2026

Curl them over on to themselves. You bend them more than 20 degrees but the part that's closest to the hole, is a gradual bend

Project_Mayhem · May 14, 2026

I try to when reasonably possible and it makes sense

...3TacksontheWater · May 16, 2026

Carl Wonderful said:
Few questions I had after replacing the cotter pin and clevis pin on my C22 swing keel (eye bolt). I got catalina directs keel hardware lifting kit and while putting the new cotter pin in, I really started thinking about how this whole 600lb cast iron keel is basically counting on this tiny cotter pin to not bend out and fall out or break somehow. Seems like a possible weak link here...Does this make anyone else a little nervous, or am I just a paranoid freak? I am new to sailing so I don't have the experience of knowing what works and what doesn't so I'm just double checking with you guys here from your experiences.

To my inexperienced mind....I feel like the cotter ring would help me sleep better at night, but not sure if there are reasons or applications that need a cotter pin opposed to a cotter ring? As long as there is clearance for both....Can cotter rings basically always be interchangeable with cotter pins on a clevis pin?

Are all cotter pins & cotter rings you'd buy from a reliable marine store stainless steel and basically the same strength?

And just to stir things up... are you a only 15% bend one sort of sailor or a bend em both around to hug the pin kinda guy (or gal)?

I've heard both sides to the argument...but to me it seems to make more sense to bend them around so they don't get snagged by stuff which can stress them and also cut you up.....

Love to hear your opinions

So this whole

There is no argument. You are mixing applications. Cotter rings only make sense in applications where you need to remove cotter pins frequently. IE Mast Raising. Outside of this application, cotter keys are King. If its below the waterline or at the top of the mast, use a cotter pin, if it is at the turnbuckle that attaches to the deck for stepping the mast, use a ring. Easy Peasy.

Project_Mayhem · May 16, 2026

I've had cotter pins at deck level get caught on shoes, clothing and skin. I prefer pins but for a small trailer sailor, I'd be a bit more lenient towards rings. If the boat lives in the water then pins

...3TacksontheWater · May 17, 2026

I should follow up and confess that on WH, I've ditched the rings in favor of quick release turnbuckles on the lower forward shrouds and forestay. lol

George

ambler · May 18, 2026

when I went to replace the keel cable on mine there was nothing in the clevis pin - no ring, no cotter pin. Not sure how it got that way or what the previous owner had done. I have 12 ft at the dock so I'd never lifted the keel. I used the cotter pin in the Catalina Direct kit.

Project_Mayhem · May 20, 2026

If there's a constantly load on a clevis pin, then it's likely to stay in place without a cotter pin/ring. If that load is removed, even for a split second, it can easily come out.

You asked about how to keep cotter pins from snagging. One trick I often use is to wrap self amalgamating tape around it. The rubbery stuff for electrical work doesn't hold up well in the sun. The silicone "repair tape", which is sold in the electrical and/or plumbing aisles, holds up very well. Rigging tape is also self amalgamating and is specifically made for this purpose. Do these tapes cause crevice corrosion? Maybe. I've yet to receive a straight answer from anyone on it. I've been using both for years but rigging can form cracks that aren't visible to the naked eye. That's why it's best to replace at recommended intervals.

...3TacksontheWater · May 20, 2026

Carl Wonderful said:
Are you saying that your keel cable wasn't even connected... that the keel was just hanging down only supported by the 4 bolts in front?

Was there any damage to the keel truck?

Once the keel is lowered the only purpose of the wire is to raise the keel when needed. The keel itself if fully supported by the keel bolts.

George

Project_Mayhem · May 20, 2026

...3TacksontheWater said:
Once the keel is lowered the only purpose of the wire is to raise the keel when needed. The keel itself if fully supported by the keel bolts.

George

It's actually a good thing to keep a small amount of tension on the cable. It helps keep it wound on the spool properly. At least that's what I've been told by riggers when dealing with crank lifts and stands