I see that the same viscosity oil at an auto supply store sells for about half of what Waste Marine sells it for. I bought some that says it is specifically for diesel motors. How about coolant? Is there any difference between the coolants that the marine supply stores sell and that at auto parts stores (aside from the fact that the auto parts stores sell it for about one-third or more less)?
coolant
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there is indeed a difference
not is terms of "auto" vs "marine" but in the glycol itself. Yanmarhelp.com has a good, concise description including pictures of the inside of a cooling system when using different types of coolant and has some pretty well-substantiated arguments in favor of using low silicate (orange) glycols which you can find at virtually any auto suply store that apply regardless of what mfg engine you have. There is nothing unique about lube oil either - just use what your engine mfg recommends for diesel rated oil viscosity
not is terms of "auto" vs "marine" but in the glycol itself. Yanmarhelp.com has a good, concise description including pictures of the inside of a cooling system when using different types of coolant and has some pretty well-substantiated arguments in favor of using low silicate (orange) glycols which you can find at virtually any auto suply store that apply regardless of what mfg engine you have. There is nothing unique about lube oil either - just use what your engine mfg recommends for diesel rated oil viscosity
Both green and orange coolants are okay, but you have to change the green more often (acording to Yanmar)...like every 300 hours. If you switch from green to orange be sure all the green is removed, they are not compatible. I use the green and change it every two years...about 50 to 60 hours.
change coolant
So, if I'm changing from green to orange, is it best to thoroughly flush the cooling system out with water first, or will draining it get rid of enough?
So, if I'm changing from green to orange, is it best to thoroughly flush the cooling system out with water first, or will draining it get rid of enough?
only one way to make sure
that the green stuff has been removed is to thoroughly flush with water and observe color carefully once you drain the water. Simply draining won't ensure it's all gone. What I would suggest is drain the green antifreeze, refill with water, run the engine up to temp, drain again and observe the color. Once clean and drained, you KNOW it's okay - otherwise, it's a guess.
that the green stuff has been removed is to thoroughly flush with water and observe color carefully once you drain the water. Simply draining won't ensure it's all gone. What I would suggest is drain the green antifreeze, refill with water, run the engine up to temp, drain again and observe the color. Once clean and drained, you KNOW it's okay - otherwise, it's a guess.
Don't screw around to save two bucks.
John: There is a big difference in Oil, Filters, & Coolants. Some of these guys will take a chance on saving $2 on a gallon of anti-freeze when Yanmar and the remainder of the marine & auto industry will tell you to use specific brands or types. If I change my oil every year and save two buck on the filters I will save $50 in 25 years. The same goes for the oil & anti-freeze. Oil costs about $10/gal & the anti-freeze is about $13/gal. You can save $3-4/gal by purchasing the cheap stuff. The cheap stuff is good for 1-2 years. The extended life is good for 5 years. $13/5=$2.50/gal/year $9/2=$4.50/gal/year. For the life of me I cannot figure out WHY someone would try to cheap out on the basic ingredients that keep that $8,000 alive and running. A "properly" maintained Yanmar engine can last for 10,000 - 12,000 hrs. This is longer than most of us will ever use an engine. Some cruisers may see these hours in 5 - 10 years but the economics are the same. Like the Pennzoil guy says, "pay me now or pay me later". You can purchase these products at an automotive stores or marine outlets. They are the same products. Yanmar no longer recommends the green antifreeze. If you decide to change to the extended life stuff you MUST be sure to completely flush the entire system (including the water heater and all the hoses). The Extended Life (orange) & the regular (green) will turn into a gel and could possibly clog up the entire system.
John: There is a big difference in Oil, Filters, & Coolants. Some of these guys will take a chance on saving $2 on a gallon of anti-freeze when Yanmar and the remainder of the marine & auto industry will tell you to use specific brands or types. If I change my oil every year and save two buck on the filters I will save $50 in 25 years. The same goes for the oil & anti-freeze. Oil costs about $10/gal & the anti-freeze is about $13/gal. You can save $3-4/gal by purchasing the cheap stuff. The cheap stuff is good for 1-2 years. The extended life is good for 5 years. $13/5=$2.50/gal/year $9/2=$4.50/gal/year. For the life of me I cannot figure out WHY someone would try to cheap out on the basic ingredients that keep that $8,000 alive and running. A "properly" maintained Yanmar engine can last for 10,000 - 12,000 hrs. This is longer than most of us will ever use an engine. Some cruisers may see these hours in 5 - 10 years but the economics are the same. Like the Pennzoil guy says, "pay me now or pay me later". You can purchase these products at an automotive stores or marine outlets. They are the same products. Yanmar no longer recommends the green antifreeze. If you decide to change to the extended life stuff you MUST be sure to completely flush the entire system (including the water heater and all the hoses). The Extended Life (orange) & the regular (green) will turn into a gel and could possibly clog up the entire system.
From Yanmar, FYI
Coolant Change – Yanmar 3GM30FC (Japan, circa 1999)Coolant Change – Yanmar 3GM30FC (Japan, circa 1999) Background: Yanmar accepts the following antifreeze applications in their products, present and past models: 1. Ethylene glycol-Changed annually regardless of hours of operation. 2. Extended Life Antifreeze or Coolant (Meets or exceeds ASTM D3306 & D4985) Changed every two years or 250 hours whichever comes first. -Yanmar Ultralife YG30 -(Dex-Cool Long Lfe Coolant) (Sauer says not to use this product) -Havoline Extended Life Antifreeze Benefits of extended life coolants: 1. reduces hard scale build up 2. better heat transfer 3. no phosphate or silicate formation 4. long term corrosion protection for aluminum, bronze and cast iron 5. improved water pump life Thomas J. Watts Technical Support, Mack Boring & Parts Company 908-964-0700 ext. 286 tomw@mackboring.com Equipment List: 0.5 gal Dexcool-type Extended Life Antifreeze (ex. Prestone 5yr/150000mi) Or 1 gal of pre-mix version of above Coolant system flush (must be safe for aluminum) (ex. Prestone Super Flush)-Optional Pliers Funnel Bucket or catch-basin Water (Makeup water should be soft water or distilled water) Instructions: 1/ On a cool engine, loosen the filler cap and drain old coolant into container. On my engine, there are 3 drain points. Most volume came out of the block drain fitting on the port side just aft of the oil filter. Approx. 16 oz came out of the 2 drains on the heat exchanger, starboard side. 2/ After draining the engine, remove one of the hot water tank hoses from the top front of the engine. Keep the 2 coolant drains on the engine open. Put on the radiator cap and put your finger over the opening on the engine where the hot water heater hose was connected. Clean off the hot water heater hose and then blow on the hose and the hot water heater loop is emptied (about 1/2 gallon). 3/ Remove and clean the overflow tank. It pulls straight up off of its mounting bracket. 4/ Close all drains and fill with water. Replace filler cap. Run engine until thermostat opens and temperature stabilizes. Then shutdown and allow to cool. 5/ Drain (ie. Repeat step 1) Refill with coolant system flush chemical (optional) plus water as required to fill. Run engine until thermostat opens. Shutdown and allow to cool. 7/ Drain (ie. Repeat step 1) Refill with water to flush out the cleaning chemical (ie. Repeat step 3). Do this 3 or 4 times until drained water is clean and free from ethylene glycol (green) antifreeze. Note: if you are staying with the EG antifreeze or did not use the flush chemical, 1 or 2 water flushes should be sufficient. 8/ Drain for the last time. Refill with the 50/50 mix of Dexcool-type extended life antifreeze. Fill overflow tank slightly above the “min” mark. 9/ Start engine, check for leaks and proper temperature. After shutdown, recheck level in overflow tank.
Coolant Change – Yanmar 3GM30FC (Japan, circa 1999)Coolant Change – Yanmar 3GM30FC (Japan, circa 1999) Background: Yanmar accepts the following antifreeze applications in their products, present and past models: 1. Ethylene glycol-Changed annually regardless of hours of operation. 2. Extended Life Antifreeze or Coolant (Meets or exceeds ASTM D3306 & D4985) Changed every two years or 250 hours whichever comes first. -Yanmar Ultralife YG30 -(Dex-Cool Long Lfe Coolant) (Sauer says not to use this product) -Havoline Extended Life Antifreeze Benefits of extended life coolants: 1. reduces hard scale build up 2. better heat transfer 3. no phosphate or silicate formation 4. long term corrosion protection for aluminum, bronze and cast iron 5. improved water pump life Thomas J. Watts Technical Support, Mack Boring & Parts Company 908-964-0700 ext. 286 tomw@mackboring.com Equipment List: 0.5 gal Dexcool-type Extended Life Antifreeze (ex. Prestone 5yr/150000mi) Or 1 gal of pre-mix version of above Coolant system flush (must be safe for aluminum) (ex. Prestone Super Flush)-Optional Pliers Funnel Bucket or catch-basin Water (Makeup water should be soft water or distilled water) Instructions: 1/ On a cool engine, loosen the filler cap and drain old coolant into container. On my engine, there are 3 drain points. Most volume came out of the block drain fitting on the port side just aft of the oil filter. Approx. 16 oz came out of the 2 drains on the heat exchanger, starboard side. 2/ After draining the engine, remove one of the hot water tank hoses from the top front of the engine. Keep the 2 coolant drains on the engine open. Put on the radiator cap and put your finger over the opening on the engine where the hot water heater hose was connected. Clean off the hot water heater hose and then blow on the hose and the hot water heater loop is emptied (about 1/2 gallon). 3/ Remove and clean the overflow tank. It pulls straight up off of its mounting bracket. 4/ Close all drains and fill with water. Replace filler cap. Run engine until thermostat opens and temperature stabilizes. Then shutdown and allow to cool. 5/ Drain (ie. Repeat step 1) Refill with coolant system flush chemical (optional) plus water as required to fill. Run engine until thermostat opens. Shutdown and allow to cool. 7/ Drain (ie. Repeat step 1) Refill with water to flush out the cleaning chemical (ie. Repeat step 3). Do this 3 or 4 times until drained water is clean and free from ethylene glycol (green) antifreeze. Note: if you are staying with the EG antifreeze or did not use the flush chemical, 1 or 2 water flushes should be sufficient. 8/ Drain for the last time. Refill with the 50/50 mix of Dexcool-type extended life antifreeze. Fill overflow tank slightly above the “min” mark. 9/ Start engine, check for leaks and proper temperature. After shutdown, recheck level in overflow tank.
Common Sense...
...must prevail in here somewhere. My boat is a 1997...the green coolant was recommended then because there was no "extended life" coolant. Even tho the extended life coolant is now recommended, that does not mean the green is all of a sudden no good. I still use the green...I don't want to flush my engine 10 times to get all the green out before putting the extended life in...and, the green has worked fine and continues to work fine. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
...must prevail in here somewhere. My boat is a 1997...the green coolant was recommended then because there was no "extended life" coolant. Even tho the extended life coolant is now recommended, that does not mean the green is all of a sudden no good. I still use the green...I don't want to flush my engine 10 times to get all the green out before putting the extended life in...and, the green has worked fine and continues to work fine. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Dex-Cool vs Yanmar's Coolant
I'd suggest if you want to consider switching to an extended life coolant you use Yanmar's own extended life coolant in a Yanmar Diesel per their recommendations. HOWEVER, I'd also suggest you Google DEX-Cool and read up on what that product has done to various GM vehicles and that varoious other truck and auto manufactures will NOT recommend using DEX-Cool. BOTH are Orange... They are not the same product. If changing from Green to Yanmar's Orange use a recommended antifreeze flushing product and a couple or three rinses after filling and running with clean water heated to full operating temperature. If you begin having cooling system problems with GM's recommended Dex-Cool in your (automotive) cooling system, it's very dificult to clean it out and switch to 'Green'. Dex-Cool's acid based compounds EAT OEM automotive intake manifold gaskets and can result in serious damage and expensive repairs not covered by GM's warranties and there has been no recalls associated with this problem. I would certainly NOT risk using Dex-Cool in any Marine Diesel unless the manufacturer delivered their engine with Dex-Cool in the system.
I'd suggest if you want to consider switching to an extended life coolant you use Yanmar's own extended life coolant in a Yanmar Diesel per their recommendations. HOWEVER, I'd also suggest you Google DEX-Cool and read up on what that product has done to various GM vehicles and that varoious other truck and auto manufactures will NOT recommend using DEX-Cool. BOTH are Orange... They are not the same product. If changing from Green to Yanmar's Orange use a recommended antifreeze flushing product and a couple or three rinses after filling and running with clean water heated to full operating temperature. If you begin having cooling system problems with GM's recommended Dex-Cool in your (automotive) cooling system, it's very dificult to clean it out and switch to 'Green'. Dex-Cool's acid based compounds EAT OEM automotive intake manifold gaskets and can result in serious damage and expensive repairs not covered by GM's warranties and there has been no recalls associated with this problem. I would certainly NOT risk using Dex-Cool in any Marine Diesel unless the manufacturer delivered their engine with Dex-Cool in the system.
Dex-Cool vs Yanmar Coolant
I think S. Sauer has it right: if you happen to have a GM engine in your boat, don't use Dex-Cool. Otherwise, I'd follow the Yanmar Mack Boring Tech's advice... FWIW, generalizing about what Dex-Cool may do to a GM engine and suggesting that it may do the same thing to a Yanmar is quite a stretch. This is but one reason I buy Japanese cars and not GM cars....
I think S. Sauer has it right: if you happen to have a GM engine in your boat, don't use Dex-Cool. Otherwise, I'd follow the Yanmar Mack Boring Tech's advice... FWIW, generalizing about what Dex-Cool may do to a GM engine and suggesting that it may do the same thing to a Yanmar is quite a stretch. This is but one reason I buy Japanese cars and not GM cars....
I even use...
manufacturers oil filters. I've even been called "stupid" on here for doing so? My 2003 Westerbeke has almost 2800 (numerous trips from Maine to the Carib) hours, runs like a top and has had almost zero failures. It's always used Westerbeke components with very few exceptions. My antifreeze is changed every two years and it has been since new. What I can see of the inside of the system looks like new. One thing I never see mentioned is the water that is mixed in with the antifreeze? Unless you buy pre-mixed 50/50 you need to add H20. I was always taught, growing up around antique cars, to always use distilled water so no other minerals got into the engine yet I have never once seen this mentioned. A gallon of distilled these days is less than a gallon of Poland Spring! Since I turned 16, and got my first car, I have never once had a cooling system issue yet I maintain them and change the fluid to manufacturer specs just more frequently than they recommend as I do with oil and tranny. Considering I have been driving between 50 & 70k per year for about 20+ years that's not a bad record. My wifes Honda ONLY gets Honda radiator fluid (120k one blown headlight one jammed seatbelt)... Most of those vehicles with the exception of some of the newer ones all used green antifreeze. My boat uses green too. If Yanmar uses a proprietary formula I'd personally use it. Westebeke only says do not mix brands or types they do not specify Dex Cool or regular. Green has worked for 2800 hours which is a lot more than most sailboats will see in an entire life time.. I think we might possibly be over thinking this. Do not mix types, use distilled and you'll be fine. Heck, you'll probably be fine without distilled but for the price ($1.09 gal) I've never taken the chance.. P.S. John I buy my anti-freeze, tranny fluid and Rotella T 15-40 diesel oil at Wal*Mart. The Rotella T at Wal*Mart is the same Rotella T as West Marine has, as is the tranny fluid and the Anti-Freeze only it cost less.. Unless your engine uses a proprietary anti-freeze or transmission fluid any auto parts store or big box like Wal*Mart is fine. With oil do be sure to buy diesel rated oil!
manufacturers oil filters. I've even been called "stupid" on here for doing so? My 2003 Westerbeke has almost 2800 (numerous trips from Maine to the Carib) hours, runs like a top and has had almost zero failures. It's always used Westerbeke components with very few exceptions. My antifreeze is changed every two years and it has been since new. What I can see of the inside of the system looks like new. One thing I never see mentioned is the water that is mixed in with the antifreeze? Unless you buy pre-mixed 50/50 you need to add H20. I was always taught, growing up around antique cars, to always use distilled water so no other minerals got into the engine yet I have never once seen this mentioned. A gallon of distilled these days is less than a gallon of Poland Spring! Since I turned 16, and got my first car, I have never once had a cooling system issue yet I maintain them and change the fluid to manufacturer specs just more frequently than they recommend as I do with oil and tranny. Considering I have been driving between 50 & 70k per year for about 20+ years that's not a bad record. My wifes Honda ONLY gets Honda radiator fluid (120k one blown headlight one jammed seatbelt)... Most of those vehicles with the exception of some of the newer ones all used green antifreeze. My boat uses green too. If Yanmar uses a proprietary formula I'd personally use it. Westebeke only says do not mix brands or types they do not specify Dex Cool or regular. Green has worked for 2800 hours which is a lot more than most sailboats will see in an entire life time.. I think we might possibly be over thinking this. Do not mix types, use distilled and you'll be fine. Heck, you'll probably be fine without distilled but for the price ($1.09 gal) I've never taken the chance.. P.S. John I buy my anti-freeze, tranny fluid and Rotella T 15-40 diesel oil at Wal*Mart. The Rotella T at Wal*Mart is the same Rotella T as West Marine has, as is the tranny fluid and the Anti-Freeze only it cost less.. Unless your engine uses a proprietary anti-freeze or transmission fluid any auto parts store or big box like Wal*Mart is fine. With oil do be sure to buy diesel rated oil!
Personal Experience
Pete, I take offense at the tone of your flippant response. My statements are based on over 23 years of hands on experience with Yanmar and Westerbeake diesels and many more years with automotive repairs, including cooling systems. As I suggested,interested persons may Google Dex-Cool Contaminants (to be more specific) and then decide if it's worth the risk to use Dex-Cool in any engine. If you intend to lend weight to your opinion FWIW, what's your specific experience with diesel cooling systems, Yanmar engines and/or Dex-Cool?
Pete, I take offense at the tone of your flippant response. My statements are based on over 23 years of hands on experience with Yanmar and Westerbeake diesels and many more years with automotive repairs, including cooling systems. As I suggested,interested persons may Google Dex-Cool Contaminants (to be more specific) and then decide if it's worth the risk to use Dex-Cool in any engine. If you intend to lend weight to your opinion FWIW, what's your specific experience with diesel cooling systems, Yanmar engines and/or Dex-Cool?
Always amazed
I'm always amazed at how many different opinions there are on such basic topics... and also how critical it can be. Just look at Nice M Easy's experience on his cruise. For the simple failure of a little cotter pin he could have been dismasted, run aground or even worse. Same with coolant. If I hadn't asked about flushing the engine, I could have just switched types and really screwed things up. I think I'll stick with the green. It's a real hassle filling my engine with coolant since I have no petcock to bleed the air out of the system. So the idea of flushing it ten times doesn't really appeal to me. (By the way, I have a Universal diesel.) As for the oil - last time I changed oil, I got the oil from a marine supply store (not WM). They recommended simple Chevron 40 weight. Said nothing about diesel rated oil. I only found that at the auto parts store. Anyway, as always, thanks for all the input.
I'm always amazed at how many different opinions there are on such basic topics... and also how critical it can be. Just look at Nice M Easy's experience on his cruise. For the simple failure of a little cotter pin he could have been dismasted, run aground or even worse. Same with coolant. If I hadn't asked about flushing the engine, I could have just switched types and really screwed things up. I think I'll stick with the green. It's a real hassle filling my engine with coolant since I have no petcock to bleed the air out of the system. So the idea of flushing it ten times doesn't really appeal to me. (By the way, I have a Universal diesel.) As for the oil - last time I changed oil, I got the oil from a marine supply store (not WM). They recommended simple Chevron 40 weight. Said nothing about diesel rated oil. I only found that at the auto parts store. Anyway, as always, thanks for all the input.
John..
Don't worry to much about the oil you used now and next time just be sure to change it with a diesel rated oil. Chevron's diesel rated oil is called Delo. Diesel rated oils with have a "C" rating as follows (in order of newest standard to oldest): CJ-4,CI-4 PLUS, CI-4,CH-4 CG-4, CF-4 & CF Rotella T (shell) Delo 400 (Chevron) Delo is available in SAE 15W-40 (CJ-4). It's also available in monogrades SAE 30, 40, and 50, which meet API CF-2 requirements but not the newer API standard. It is possible that you got Chevron Delo but the Delo is more prominent than the Chevron on those bottles so it sounds like you may not have been sold a diesel rated.. These are the two most widely available diesel rated oils. Your Kubota/Universal can run a 15-40 and the new Universal/Kubota's do.
Don't worry to much about the oil you used now and next time just be sure to change it with a diesel rated oil. Chevron's diesel rated oil is called Delo. Diesel rated oils with have a "C" rating as follows (in order of newest standard to oldest): CJ-4,CI-4 PLUS, CI-4,CH-4 CG-4, CF-4 & CF Rotella T (shell) Delo 400 (Chevron) Delo is available in SAE 15W-40 (CJ-4). It's also available in monogrades SAE 30, 40, and 50, which meet API CF-2 requirements but not the newer API standard. It is possible that you got Chevron Delo but the Delo is more prominent than the Chevron on those bottles so it sounds like you may not have been sold a diesel rated.. These are the two most widely available diesel rated oils. Your Kubota/Universal can run a 15-40 and the new Universal/Kubota's do.
"Manufacturer's Products"
I suggest caution in always using what one thinks to be a "manufacturer's part." I seriously doubt, for example, that manufacturer's like Yanmar and Westerbeke, even make oil or fuel filters themselves. Not long ago, the much maligned here "Practical Sailor" commented on using various aftermarket filters and found that many of them exceeded the "manufacturer's." I personally like and use Fram and Wix filters, which are being used daily and successfully in virtually every kind of vehicle engine. And while this is only a sample of one, I would never again use a Yanmar alternator or water pump belt on my Yanmar diesel (they seem to be made for Yanmar by Mitsubishi). I say this because after only a few hours of use, I had a near failure of a Yanmar water pump belt. I was lucky to catch it in time. I now use and recommend Gates belts, which are far superior products.
I suggest caution in always using what one thinks to be a "manufacturer's part." I seriously doubt, for example, that manufacturer's like Yanmar and Westerbeke, even make oil or fuel filters themselves. Not long ago, the much maligned here "Practical Sailor" commented on using various aftermarket filters and found that many of them exceeded the "manufacturer's." I personally like and use Fram and Wix filters, which are being used daily and successfully in virtually every kind of vehicle engine. And while this is only a sample of one, I would never again use a Yanmar alternator or water pump belt on my Yanmar diesel (they seem to be made for Yanmar by Mitsubishi). I say this because after only a few hours of use, I had a near failure of a Yanmar water pump belt. I was lucky to catch it in time. I now use and recommend Gates belts, which are far superior products.
John, you're eventually gonna have to change the coolant,
so why not learn how to do it? I do recall that your thermostat housing doesn't have a bleed plug. So, right there on your C36 Message Board, I posted this link, which explains exactly how to burp the hot water heater loop without using the thermostat bleed plug: http://catalina36.org/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6186056212/m/2591049772?r=5281041872#5281041872 (scroll down about halfway). It links to a C34 thread I started, too, with pictures of our old hot water heater hose loop replacement. We've also suggested Calder's "Boatowner's Manual for Mechanical and Electrical Systems," a book which covers the diesel engine rating for oil and the types of coolants used. To most easily drain the coolant, rather than using the petcock on the engine, I recommend loosening the L shaped hose below the freshwater pump where it connects to the 90 degree elbow to go back to the HX, and placing a funnel into a bucket below. Works better, easier to access and since it is lower than the petcock on the manifold gets more water out of the system.
so why not learn how to do it? I do recall that your thermostat housing doesn't have a bleed plug. So, right there on your C36 Message Board, I posted this link, which explains exactly how to burp the hot water heater loop without using the thermostat bleed plug: http://catalina36.org/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6186056212/m/2591049772?r=5281041872#5281041872 (scroll down about halfway). It links to a C34 thread I started, too, with pictures of our old hot water heater hose loop replacement. We've also suggested Calder's "Boatowner's Manual for Mechanical and Electrical Systems," a book which covers the diesel engine rating for oil and the types of coolants used. To most easily drain the coolant, rather than using the petcock on the engine, I recommend loosening the L shaped hose below the freshwater pump where it connects to the 90 degree elbow to go back to the HX, and placing a funnel into a bucket below. Works better, easier to access and since it is lower than the petcock on the manifold gets more water out of the system.
Already done it
Stu, Thanks for the tip. I've already changed the coolant once - when I removed and cleaned out the HX. (Incidentally, for those with the Universal 35 engines - I had to have one of the brackets welded or brazed back on. This wasn't noticeable until the HX was removed.) All I'm saying is that it's a hassle to burp this engine, so flushing it ten times or so isn't exactly my idea of fun. I'd rather just change coolant a little more often.
Stu, Thanks for the tip. I've already changed the coolant once - when I removed and cleaned out the HX. (Incidentally, for those with the Universal 35 engines - I had to have one of the brackets welded or brazed back on. This wasn't noticeable until the HX was removed.) All I'm saying is that it's a hassle to burp this engine, so flushing it ten times or so isn't exactly my idea of fun. I'd rather just change coolant a little more often.
John,
Maybe I am showing my ignorance here, but how hard would it be to add a bleeder screw at the high point on the cooling system, either in the thermostat housing or in the hose? Moroso makes several that might work, as a 20 year GM tech, I am not even going to get into the Dexcool thing. ;D Tim
Maybe I am showing my ignorance here, but how hard would it be to add a bleeder screw at the high point on the cooling system, either in the thermostat housing or in the hose? Moroso makes several that might work, as a 20 year GM tech, I am not even going to get into the Dexcool thing. ;D Tim
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