coolant

[John]

installing bleeder screw

yes, I thought about this. However, the housing for the thermostat, where such a petcock should be, already has two threaded holes - one for the sending unit for the temp gauge and one for the sending unit for the hot water alarm. The face of the housing is aluminum and pretty thin, so I think I'd have to have a nut brazed to the inside of it to attach the petcock -- IF I could find room to do so. I'm not sure it's worth all that hassle. As it is, what I do is simply loosen the sending unit and this acts like a petcock. Thanks for the suggestion, though.Incidentally, how are you supposed to dispose of the coolant?

 

[Stu Jackson]

John's right, we did have this discussion earlier

and I also made a suggestion as to how to burp the hot water heater leg without a petcock and without even taking any of your attachments off the housing, John. See this from the archives: http://archives.sailboatowners.com/pviewarch.htm?fno=20&sku=2007332212652.1&id=505818&ptl=#2007333111819.12It said (edited): The airlock is in the freshwater system from the hoses from and back to the thermostat from the hot water heater. It's called "burping" and there are two ways to do this: run the engine, experience extremely high temperature and crack open the little valve on the top of the thermostat while revving the engine (not recommended); or, either disconnect the hose from the base of the thermostat and use a Jabsco Par hand pump to assure that the water line from the thermostat to the heater is full OR just disconnect the hose at the thermostat and pour water (distilled) into it to assure that the air "bubble" is gone. I do that latter, it's the easiest. You can use our C34 message board and do a search on "burp."

 

[rardiH36]

When/If is it OK to Final Flush Coolant System Using Fresh Water Hose?

My coolant flushes in the past (all one of them since I've had my first boat in the water for only eight months) have been like most posts refer. Drain. Then fill/run. Then Drain. Repeat Several times. I save each drain and bring to the local recycling center.The next time I do want to change from the green glycol to the newer extended life coolants which from the posts seems to suggest require several drain/fill/run/drain cycles, then add a flush chemical, then several more fill/run/drains.It would seem to me that after a couple of capturing the drains after the chemical flush, the system is pretty darn clean but more flushes are recommended to further remove all traces of sludge and previous coolant residues. I'm all for not introducing pollution into our waterways. But at this point, logically it would seem that introducing clean water into the coolant system ex a hose (like the Prestone automobile flush procedure many years ago) and flushing overboard for several minutes while the engine is running shouldn't be an environmental no-no.Anybody know the answer on this? If hose flushing can be done in an environmentally acceptable manner, does anybody have instructions on the hose fitting point and overboard flush point?regards,rardi

 

[s sauer]

Water Temperature?

If you did find a convenient 'fill' point and 'outlet' point with some kind of hose couplings, you would also need to remove the thermostat so the hose water could run thru the system at roughly 65-75 degrees instead of 175-185 degrees? I'd question if all this is as adequate as multiple conventional fill - run- drain & re-fill of what's obviously designed as a closed higher temperature system under pressure.