While sailing under power there was a buzzing sound and a red light appeared on the panel. I shut off the motor and the sound stopped. I would like to know what all those indicator lights mean. Does anyone have a panel display with all the codes or do they know where I could obtain one.
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Tony, on the panel you got...
water temperature, oil pressure and battery charging. The buzzer is to draw your attention to the lights to figure out where yor problem might be. before you start your engine when you turn the key on two lights will go on and the buzzer will sound. Those oil pressure as there is none as the engine is off and battery charging as there is none as the engine is off. The water temperature is off as the water is still cold as the engine is off and this light will only go on when the engine overheats. There is a toggle switch which is used to turn the instrument light on at night but in the opposite direction is used to test the water temperature light and buzzer. When you are motoring and the buzzer goes of look at the panel and see which light is on; if it is temperature or oil pressure turn engine off. If it is battery charging you may continue to motor with the understanding that your batteries are on their own. When you shut off your engine you either raise your sails or drop the anchor unless you have plenty of room to drift. Open the engine compartment and take a look, check oil level, water leaks and feel engine temperature. If you are mechanically inclined you can run some diagnostics, if not call the tow boat service of your preference. If winds are favorable you may sail to your dock or mooring. If the problem was water temperature you can let the enine cool down and turn it on for a short time at near idle speed when it is critically needed. If it has oil and the problem is oil pressure leave it off.
water temperature, oil pressure and battery charging. The buzzer is to draw your attention to the lights to figure out where yor problem might be. before you start your engine when you turn the key on two lights will go on and the buzzer will sound. Those oil pressure as there is none as the engine is off and battery charging as there is none as the engine is off. The water temperature is off as the water is still cold as the engine is off and this light will only go on when the engine overheats. There is a toggle switch which is used to turn the instrument light on at night but in the opposite direction is used to test the water temperature light and buzzer. When you are motoring and the buzzer goes of look at the panel and see which light is on; if it is temperature or oil pressure turn engine off. If it is battery charging you may continue to motor with the understanding that your batteries are on their own. When you shut off your engine you either raise your sails or drop the anchor unless you have plenty of room to drift. Open the engine compartment and take a look, check oil level, water leaks and feel engine temperature. If you are mechanically inclined you can run some diagnostics, if not call the tow boat service of your preference. If winds are favorable you may sail to your dock or mooring. If the problem was water temperature you can let the enine cool down and turn it on for a short time at near idle speed when it is critically needed. If it has oil and the problem is oil pressure leave it off.
Nice Job Benny
one thing to add, if it is water temperature that set off the light/buzzer alarm, check your raw water filter. It could be clogged. Tony I'm just across the pond from you and all this rain we had this year, there has been alot of crap in the water. I clogged up my filter, the first time ever, this year.
one thing to add, if it is water temperature that set off the light/buzzer alarm, check your raw water filter. It could be clogged. Tony I'm just across the pond from you and all this rain we had this year, there has been alot of crap in the water. I clogged up my filter, the first time ever, this year.
Engine Alarms
depending on how far you were heeled over, the oil pump may not have been able to suck any oil out of the sump.... If you have a Yanmar, there is only one buzzer, but the individual lights should say what they are for. Oil Pressure, Water Temp, and charger. The Oil pressure light should come on when you turn the key, but go out when you start the engine. Find the sensors - if you don't have a shop manual get one from the engine manufacturer. If it is the charging light, indicating a problem with alternator, check the belts. Or replace them... take the alt. to any alternator shop for testing. If water temp search the archives... there have been many discussions on how to correct overheating.
depending on how far you were heeled over, the oil pump may not have been able to suck any oil out of the sump.... If you have a Yanmar, there is only one buzzer, but the individual lights should say what they are for. Oil Pressure, Water Temp, and charger. The Oil pressure light should come on when you turn the key, but go out when you start the engine. Find the sensors - if you don't have a shop manual get one from the engine manufacturer. If it is the charging light, indicating a problem with alternator, check the belts. Or replace them... take the alt. to any alternator shop for testing. If water temp search the archives... there have been many discussions on how to correct overheating.
Control Panel Buzzing/overheating
I cleaned out the water filter and found it clogged. I thought I found the solution. The filter was clogged with seaweed. I ran the engine for thirty minutes at the mooring with no buzzing/overheating. Then I motored out into the harbor and around fifteen minutes later the overheating buzzer and light came on. Then I was towed back to my mooring and ran the engine at 2000 revolutions for around ten minutes and there was no buzzing. What can this be??
I cleaned out the water filter and found it clogged. I thought I found the solution. The filter was clogged with seaweed. I ran the engine for thirty minutes at the mooring with no buzzing/overheating. Then I motored out into the harbor and around fifteen minutes later the overheating buzzer and light came on. Then I was towed back to my mooring and ran the engine at 2000 revolutions for around ten minutes and there was no buzzing. What can this be??
H31_83-87 Oveheating
Overheating and seawater filter clean? Happens on my H31 '87 2GM every so often, because the "mixing elbo" on the exahust water is stopped up with carbon. Take off the water hose that exits the heat exchanger, remove the 1/2 inch screwed in hose barb elbo, take a flat screw driver and break up the carbon that is restricting the flow of water through the hole. If that stops the overheating then you have identified the problem. If it continues to over heat you may need to replace the "mixing elbo" becuase the carbon build up is deeper in the elbo. The last time I replaced mine I removed the panel on the back side of the motor compartment, when I reinstalled it I made "removable" for future access. Also I recently modified the hose set up so that I replaced the 1/2 inch screwed in elbo hose barb with a straight hose barb and mounted the vent loop on the other side of the motor compartment, so the water would have better flow. This was suggested to me by another H31 83_87 owner and he said that it took a lot longer for the carbon to build up and cut the flow of water.
Overheating and seawater filter clean? Happens on my H31 '87 2GM every so often, because the "mixing elbo" on the exahust water is stopped up with carbon. Take off the water hose that exits the heat exchanger, remove the 1/2 inch screwed in hose barb elbo, take a flat screw driver and break up the carbon that is restricting the flow of water through the hole. If that stops the overheating then you have identified the problem. If it continues to over heat you may need to replace the "mixing elbo" becuase the carbon build up is deeper in the elbo. The last time I replaced mine I removed the panel on the back side of the motor compartment, when I reinstalled it I made "removable" for future access. Also I recently modified the hose set up so that I replaced the 1/2 inch screwed in elbo hose barb with a straight hose barb and mounted the vent loop on the other side of the motor compartment, so the water would have better flow. This was suggested to me by another H31 83_87 owner and he said that it took a lot longer for the carbon to build up and cut the flow of water.
Overheating
SeaRanch, Thanks for the info I will try your suggestions and let you know if they solved my problem.
SeaRanch, Thanks for the info I will try your suggestions and let you know if they solved my problem.
Heat exchanger
Another possibility you can check is the heat exchanger. It sits right on top of the engine (2GM20F)and is filled with small diameter tubes that can get clogged up over the years. You can pull this assembly out and acid and/or brush clean it. Reinstall with new gaskets. Also, I would definitely get a copy of the Yanmar service manual.
Another possibility you can check is the heat exchanger. It sits right on top of the engine (2GM20F)and is filled with small diameter tubes that can get clogged up over the years. You can pull this assembly out and acid and/or brush clean it. Reinstall with new gaskets. Also, I would definitely get a copy of the Yanmar service manual.
Kingston cock
I would also check the kingston cock to make sure that it is not clogged. If your seawater strainer was clogged, there is a good chance that the kingston cock may be clogged or impeded. You can run the engine at low speed under no load with little or no sea water flow without seeting off the over-heat alarm. Close the kingston cock, disconnect the raw water hose, then open the kingston cock. You should get a good flow of water. If not, you will need to clear the clog.
I would also check the kingston cock to make sure that it is not clogged. If your seawater strainer was clogged, there is a good chance that the kingston cock may be clogged or impeded. You can run the engine at low speed under no load with little or no sea water flow without seeting off the over-heat alarm. Close the kingston cock, disconnect the raw water hose, then open the kingston cock. You should get a good flow of water. If not, you will need to clear the clog.
sending unit wire problem
Tony: We had this as an intermitent problem on our 2GM20F. There is a single wire that attaches to the front of the engine. I believe that it is a water temp sensor. Be sure that this wire is not loose or the contact with the sensor has broken. Very easy to change out and only costs about $30.
Tony: We had this as an intermitent problem on our 2GM20F. There is a single wire that attaches to the front of the engine. I believe that it is a water temp sensor. Be sure that this wire is not loose or the contact with the sensor has broken. Very easy to change out and only costs about $30.
Impeller
I would check the raw water pump impeller,being the filter was clogged and overheated you coulld have a bad impeller because it ran dry without water,it is easy to replace the impeller. What type of motor do you have.
I would check the raw water pump impeller,being the filter was clogged and overheated you coulld have a bad impeller because it ran dry without water,it is easy to replace the impeller. What type of motor do you have.
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