Confused about pipe sizes - trying to make dip tube for new tank

[Fredct]

Dave, thanks for tips, I have a hot glue gun! The replacement vent line goes through 3 inner walls and then to the outside. I am a bit concerned about the tool fitting correctly in these tight spaces. I would hate to use a bit extender with a hole saw bit.

For the hull, I could also insert a wood plug into the existing fitting and use that as my guide for the hole saw.

More to follow

 

[dlochner]

Dave, thanks for tips, I have a hot glue gun! The replacement vent line goes through 3 inner walls and then to the outside. I am a bit concerned about the tool fitting correctly in these tight spaces. I would hate to use a bit extender with a hole saw bit.

For the hull, I could also insert a wood plug into the existing fitting and use that as my guide for the hole saw.

More to follow

For a small hole, 1", a spade bit, Forster bit, or an auger bit will also work. If the hole isn't easily seen, don't worry too much about cosmetics.

Not sure exactly how the bulkheads are set up, however, you could drill a larger hole on the most accessible hole and then use a piece of 1"ID PCV as a drill guide for the second hole. Slide the pipe into the first hole, line it up and then run the drill through the pipe.

 

[Bob S]

I would go with 1 or 2. Head room shouldn't be a big issue, install the stand pipe before you install the tank.

Be very careful and dry fit everything before cutting holes. There was no way to install the PVC pipes when the tank was in place, it had to be done before installing. The tank monitor was actually cut for a 1" vent line but after doing that I couldn't get the bulkhead panel back in place . I had to move it further back and I was lucky enough to be able to use the hole for a Raritan Holding tank sensor. I installed an electric head with a smart control and the sensor was an option I didn't plan on.

Raritan’s Full Holding Tank Sensors are designed to prevent accidental overfilling of on-board waste
holding tanks. These sensors will illuminate the Holding Tank Full LED on all Smart Toilet Controls
manufactured after April 2013. When the holding tank nears 90% capacity, the Holding Tank Full light
will illuminate and disable both the NORMAL and WATER SAVER buttons.

Be careful that everything will fit together and in place before cutting holes!

 

[Fredct]

#team - tank on order. Fittings and hoses not yet ordered. During prep work last weekend, I noticed that the tank is sitting on a wood platform (rotten by now) which is tabbed to the hull. I need to remove the platform completely, build a new one, re-tab to boat and then install tank. More work than I thought.

I also did a dry run with the new vents. I currently have 2 vents but the larger 1" line will only work on one side. So it will be a single line to port.

Finally, I did not see how i can attach the pump out hose to the deck fitting. I assume that the fitting has to be completely removed, hose fitted and then reattached to deck with proper butyl tape...

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I did not see how i can attach the pump out hose to the deck fitting. I assume that the fitting has to be completely removed, hose fitted and then reattached to deck with proper butyl tape...

The pumpout hose slips onto the hose barb on the deck fitting that extends below it. I think your problem may be gaining access to it to do that--which you need to do because the hose needs be secured with hose clamps--2 of 'em with screws 180 degrees apart (same is true for all hose connections in a sanitation system)--'cuz you won't be able to re-insert it with hose clamps on it.

--Peggie

 

[Fredct]

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress

You are scaring me! I have a black rubber hose from deck fitting to head compartment, then union to white hose and then another union in waste tank area.

Working backward, I think that a previous owner tried to replace a hose and gave up because no (or limited) access to the barb zone.

More to follow.

 

[Fredct]

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress

UPDATE - you were correct. The barbed end is buried in insulation, inside a thin crawl space and not reachable. The hose must be original to 1981; i will only find out when I take it apart.
Plan of action: take apart head locker and shelf to gain access to the deck fitting. The hose is routed through the shelf so it cannot be pulled out without taking the hose apart (or cutting through one or the other). Remove and discard insulating material (I do not understand the purpose of that "under-the-deck" insulation). Remove the "single" SS clamp and then pull hose out.
In reverse, it will be route hose through the shelf and reattach to the barbed fitting.
I surveyed rest of boat and can find remnants of that (now falling apart) insulating material on starboard side of head, above sink but nowhere else.
2 photos for reference purposes. One picture shows hose as seen if standing inside head. Other show camera inserted inside the small space. Clamp visible on right side.

 

[Fredct]

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress

Question: considering the space limitations, can I get away with using 2 clamps not quite at 180 degrees? I may not have room for the tool If I stick to 180 degrees. BTW: O'Day in 1981 used single clamps from what i can see.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Question: considering the space limitations, can I get away with using 2 clamps not quite at 180 degrees?

Yes...90 degrees is acceptable.

The hose is routed through the shelf so it cannot be pulled out without taking the hose apart (or cutting through one or the other).

By all means take it apart...cut if necessary to get 'em out. In one of of your previous posts it appears that either your toilet discharge hose or tank discharge hose is two or three hoses joined together. All your hoses should be one continuous piece of hose. Consider new routes for them that are shorter and straighter.

As for enlarging your vent thru-hull...from your description of the vent line path, it appears that the existing vent line takes a pretty long and torturous path. It might be easier just to plug the existing thru-hull and install a new one in a location that provides a much shorter--and especially a STRAIGHT-- path.

--Peggie

 

[Fredct]

1- 90 degrees. Noted. Will use 2 clamps
2- A piece of hose was definitely replaced but not the entire hose (and not of the other hoses). Will remove union and run a single hose.
3- Vent goes from tank to head to outside. The thru-hull needs to be in the head compartment. No other possible locations. I estimate total length at about 8 feet, with two 90 degree turns to get to the outside.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

The thru-hull needs to be in the head compartment. No other possible locations. I estimate total length at about 8 feet, with two 90 degree turns to get to the outside.

Then there was no point in upgrading the vent to 1" 'cuz an 8' run with 2 90s couldn't allow any air exchange if it were 2".

There has to be a better location for the thru-hull and I'll bet we can find it if we spend a little time on the phone. Send me a PM and I'll reply with my phone #.

--Peggie

 

[Fredct]

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress

I am on way to boat to start taking apart the head locker. I will remeasure the vent lines. More to follow

 

[Fredct]

Vent line length = 6 feet. I have possibility of doing port AND starboard. 6 feet on either side.

Deck fitting. See picture. Thinking of replacing. For now, I re-sealed till I get all the supplies.

 

[dlochner]

The square cut looks like it might have been made to allow the hose clamp to slide through the hole. If the clamp fits, then the hose was connected above the deck and slide down into the boat. That would explain the difficult access you have to the underside of the fitting.

 

[Fredct]

Indeed, that's exactly how it was done at the time. The locker is gone for now which will allow me to make replacement parts (water damage). I will not be able to reinstall the replacement hose until the wood is back in place.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Vent line length = 6 feet. I have possibility of doing port AND starboard. 6 feet on either side.

A single 6' vent line is ok IF it's a straight line from the tank to the thru-hull or at worst only has a wide sweeping turn in it. Even better if it runs forward to a thru-hull near the bow.

--Peggie

 

[Fredct]

Thanks. I will start with a single 1" and take it from there. My spirits are down because project is complicated. To do:
1- Decide if I want to replace deck fitting.
2- Make a new shelf and locker components (plywood with white laminate on both sides).
3- Remove all plumbing.
4- Design and make new platform for tank. Tab to boat using plexiglass.
5- Install new plumbing

 

[dlochner]

4- Design and make new platform for tank. Tab to boat using plexiglass.

Plexiglass? or is this auto correct for fiberglass?

 

[Fredct]

you see how I am overwhelmed! Fiberglass is what I meant. Make wood platform for tank and then tab to the hull using fiberglass. Very tight space. i am not looking forward to that part.

 

[dlochner]

you see how I am overwhelmed! Fiberglass is what I meant. Make wood platform for tank and then tab to the hull using fiberglass. Very tight space. i am not looking forward to that part.

The tabbing part is easy. It's the prep work.