Companion way doors..
- Thread starter Jimm
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Jimm,
Nice job pal. I recall an earlier post on door vs. slats, maybe it was your thread.
You did mention these are great for cruising. So I assume the doors are removed and stored, but you do the same for the slats. I would think the doors by their shape, take up more room to sto than slats. Does the stationary hinge have the pin in it? I wonder if this may be a catching point for folks entering or exiting.
One thing I did notice in your pic was what I saw as potential leak areas by design.
I recently re-designed my slats to close the upper areas better off to stop rain getting in. This worked better however, every Catalina owner has problems with water leaking in because of the angled companionway design.
Happy sailing pal, ya know what the say about sailing, just add water.
CR
Nice job pal. I recall an earlier post on door vs. slats, maybe it was your thread.
You did mention these are great for cruising. So I assume the doors are removed and stored, but you do the same for the slats. I would think the doors by their shape, take up more room to sto than slats. Does the stationary hinge have the pin in it? I wonder if this may be a catching point for folks entering or exiting.
One thing I did notice in your pic was what I saw as potential leak areas by design.
I recently re-designed my slats to close the upper areas better off to stop rain getting in. This worked better however, every Catalina owner has problems with water leaking in because of the angled companionway design.
Happy sailing pal, ya know what the say about sailing, just add water.
CR
hello allFinally finished a set of doors - much more convenient when cruising
I too just recently built new companionway doors... I stayed with the slat style doors... I used red oak boards for my door... and I angled the bottoms of each board so it over laps in a downward angle toward the cockpit to help keep out the water better...
sincerely
Jess
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Great dialog...question...I have the traditional slats and store them haphazardly in the quarter berth. Seems to me there should be a better way like a canvas bag with dividers???
I would appreciate anybodies ideas, thanks
I would appreciate anybodies ideas, thanks
I normally pop mine under the cushions on the long settee, varnish side up, against the fabric. Basically same as storing in bag, and the fiddle rail that holds the cushion also holds the boards.
hello all
when I remove my door slats, I have a piece of canvass I use.... it is cut in the fashion so I can lay one piece in, then roll it, then place the next slat in, roll it, and so forth till I have them all wrapped up, then I fold the ends in and have a tie fastened at each end, and it all tied together to keep them safe and from being harmed.... easy to store this way...
sincerely
Jess
when I remove my door slats, I have a piece of canvass I use.... it is cut in the fashion so I can lay one piece in, then roll it, then place the next slat in, roll it, and so forth till I have them all wrapped up, then I fold the ends in and have a tie fastened at each end, and it all tied together to keep them safe and from being harmed.... easy to store this way...
sincerely
Jess
Doors are simply easier to managed than the three slats, and provide more convenient access without having to remove.
I have been trying that with some beach towels, too. Seems like I am always trying to find time savers so I can get out in the wind quicker!
Jimm,
I sto my folded main cover in the aft lazarett. On top of this I sto the top longest hatch board on top of the cover. I then put the binnacle cover with one slat inside this. The smallest hatch board then sits on top of the cover. This has worked great for me.
I also use a method of flaking my main cover which makes stowing it easy & can singlehandedly recover the main while underway & in wind.
I've seen all sorts of ways people fold/roll or bunch up their mainsail cover. I seen cover blowing wildly in the wind & twisting, calls to extra hands for help etc. I've had folks watch what I do & they liked this method. Remember, this is only an opinion, but here's what I do:
I undo all the snaps/quarter-turns whatever you use.
Then while standing just aft the mast, 3 feet back, I reach down and grab both sides of the cover at the bottom.
I then lift & pull (ribboning this 3 foot section and pulling it up to the mast). This will pull the rear cover end in your direction.
I then repeat this ribboning process pulling each fold to me giving a ribbon stack look.
I then grab the high front of the cover & pull it back over the ribbons and flatten saddle like
Just slip an arm under the folded cover and carry it like a saddle to your sto point.
I know this is off on a tangent, but it gives a great cushion for your slats if deciding to keep all in the rear lazaretto.
When recovering, just put the cover on the boom close to the mast.
Grab the front part and wrap around the mast & secure it.
Grab the aft end top fold holding it and walk back to your boom end for tying it off.
In this way, the wind doesn't grab the cover.
ps: how does one correctly spell "lazarret"???
CR
I sto my folded main cover in the aft lazarett. On top of this I sto the top longest hatch board on top of the cover. I then put the binnacle cover with one slat inside this. The smallest hatch board then sits on top of the cover. This has worked great for me.
I also use a method of flaking my main cover which makes stowing it easy & can singlehandedly recover the main while underway & in wind.
I've seen all sorts of ways people fold/roll or bunch up their mainsail cover. I seen cover blowing wildly in the wind & twisting, calls to extra hands for help etc. I've had folks watch what I do & they liked this method. Remember, this is only an opinion, but here's what I do:
I undo all the snaps/quarter-turns whatever you use.
Then while standing just aft the mast, 3 feet back, I reach down and grab both sides of the cover at the bottom.
I then lift & pull (ribboning this 3 foot section and pulling it up to the mast). This will pull the rear cover end in your direction.
I then repeat this ribboning process pulling each fold to me giving a ribbon stack look.
I then grab the high front of the cover & pull it back over the ribbons and flatten saddle like
Just slip an arm under the folded cover and carry it like a saddle to your sto point.
I know this is off on a tangent, but it gives a great cushion for your slats if deciding to keep all in the rear lazaretto.
When recovering, just put the cover on the boom close to the mast.
Grab the front part and wrap around the mast & secure it.
Grab the aft end top fold holding it and walk back to your boom end for tying it off.
In this way, the wind doesn't grab the cover.
ps: how does one correctly spell "lazarret"???
CR
Jimm & Jess,
Your doors look good, but I have to tell you that a sailboat that a friend of mine has, the P.O. used red oak for hatch boards in the companion way. After about 2 years the red oak started to swell up & crack badly at all seams, especially at joined areas. You have to maintain a perfect coat of varnish on oak wood for it to hold up in the marine salt water environment. That's why I & most sailors really prefer teak for all exterior wood trim on a boat. Teak & solid mahoghany are really the only woods commonly used on a boat that hole up to decades of salt & sun corrosion & wear. But they're of course expensive. This is one area where Catalina actually did not skimp, was in the use of solid teak hatch boards & trim & railings. Hope the oak holds up for ya.
Your doors look good, but I have to tell you that a sailboat that a friend of mine has, the P.O. used red oak for hatch boards in the companion way. After about 2 years the red oak started to swell up & crack badly at all seams, especially at joined areas. You have to maintain a perfect coat of varnish on oak wood for it to hold up in the marine salt water environment. That's why I & most sailors really prefer teak for all exterior wood trim on a boat. Teak & solid mahoghany are really the only woods commonly used on a boat that hole up to decades of salt & sun corrosion & wear. But they're of course expensive. This is one area where Catalina actually did not skimp, was in the use of solid teak hatch boards & trim & railings. Hope the oak holds up for ya.
hello
well it is about a 2 day drive to get to any salt water with my sailboat on a trailer... so I believe I will not have to worry about the salt water problem... if I do go to the ocean, it will only be for a short time while I am on vacation... I am a woodworker, and have worked many projects in wood on fishing boats, power boats, and more.... i think i have about $20 invested in my doors for my boat... should they last 2 or 3 years, i believe i got my moneys worth out of them, and will build new one when they are needed.... i would have used teak or mohagany, but it is sooooooo expensive... also with the mohagany i could not find the sizes of boards i wanted... maybe next time i will build doors like jimm did... i like the doors i built, they keep the water out, and that is what matters isn't it ??
sincerely
jess
well it is about a 2 day drive to get to any salt water with my sailboat on a trailer... so I believe I will not have to worry about the salt water problem... if I do go to the ocean, it will only be for a short time while I am on vacation... I am a woodworker, and have worked many projects in wood on fishing boats, power boats, and more.... i think i have about $20 invested in my doors for my boat... should they last 2 or 3 years, i believe i got my moneys worth out of them, and will build new one when they are needed.... i would have used teak or mohagany, but it is sooooooo expensive... also with the mohagany i could not find the sizes of boards i wanted... maybe next time i will build doors like jimm did... i like the doors i built, they keep the water out, and that is what matters isn't it ??
sincerely
jess
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