I'm preparing to work on the teak on a newly purchased Catalina 27 (my first boat, therefore my first work on teak). As I was looking at the various two-part products in my marina's chandlery the docmaster suggested I use Comet cleaner and wet/dry sandpaper, sand it down and let dry overnight then apply the oil/finish/etc. I see one or two postings in the archives that refer to Comet as an initial cleaner, but wondered if anyone had any specific advice/cautions from personal experience. I found plenty of advice in the archives about what to do with the teak after it's cleaned -- I'm still debating the relative merits of Cetol Light and Armada. Thank in advance, Patrick
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LaDonna Bubak - CatalinaOwners
I suppose it would work
Be sure to rinse it off thoroughly though. It certainly wouldn't get as "clean" and bright as with the two part cleaners but if you're trying to go cheap & easy, it'll probably do ok. You might also look at Bristol Finish instead of Armada or Cetol. It has the look of varnish but the same properties as Cetol (or so I'm told). It's not too much more than Cetol but doesn't have that nasty painted look. Yes, I know Cetol Light is better but if I were you, I'd check out what it really looked like first hand before applying it. You might think it's fine or you might hate it. What a bummer to do your wood and hate how it looks. LaDonna
Be sure to rinse it off thoroughly though. It certainly wouldn't get as "clean" and bright as with the two part cleaners but if you're trying to go cheap & easy, it'll probably do ok. You might also look at Bristol Finish instead of Armada or Cetol. It has the look of varnish but the same properties as Cetol (or so I'm told). It's not too much more than Cetol but doesn't have that nasty painted look. Yes, I know Cetol Light is better but if I were you, I'd check out what it really looked like first hand before applying it. You might think it's fine or you might hate it. What a bummer to do your wood and hate how it looks. LaDonna
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Steve Franklin
Green teak?
I've never tried it, but I would be VERY concerned about leaving light green highlights embedded in the grain. New definition of "green wood." If you use Cetol, it's light orange might go well with the green, especially if you like the early 70's colors. You could be starting a whole new Catalina retro movement. Seriously, though, now that you have me curious, I'm going to try it on an open grained scrap and again on a tight grained scrap of teak just to see what happens. Good luck!!!!
I've never tried it, but I would be VERY concerned about leaving light green highlights embedded in the grain. New definition of "green wood." If you use Cetol, it's light orange might go well with the green, especially if you like the early 70's colors. You could be starting a whole new Catalina retro movement. Seriously, though, now that you have me curious, I'm going to try it on an open grained scrap and again on a tight grained scrap of teak just to see what happens. Good luck!!!!
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Mike Turner
Barkeep's Friend
Try an alternate product called Barkeep's Friend -- you can get it at many grocery and hardware stores. It's an alternate to Comet but it's white. It contains a very mild version of oxolyic acid (I'm sure I mispelled that), as does Comet, which is also the active ingredient in many commerical teak cleaners. I've used it on many different woods and it works very well -- particularly in removing black aging. Use lots of water to rinse it all away or your wood will "foam up" for awhile. You will also find that it raises the grain of the wood up some, which may be why sanding was also recommended. Mike Turner S/V Amity
Try an alternate product called Barkeep's Friend -- you can get it at many grocery and hardware stores. It's an alternate to Comet but it's white. It contains a very mild version of oxolyic acid (I'm sure I mispelled that), as does Comet, which is also the active ingredient in many commerical teak cleaners. I've used it on many different woods and it works very well -- particularly in removing black aging. Use lots of water to rinse it all away or your wood will "foam up" for awhile. You will also find that it raises the grain of the wood up some, which may be why sanding was also recommended. Mike Turner S/V Amity
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Rick
I've done it
I have used comet on teak. It worked great. I used one of those foam-sponge type sanding blocks. It's amazing to watch nasty old teak "pink up" before your eyes while scrubbing. In my case I was removing old teak oil that had gone too long before touch up. I don't know how successful the technique would be if you are trying to remove old varnish or Cetol. I replaced the teak oil (love the look and the compliments) but now I make sure to add another coat every 3 months even though it doesn't appear to need it yet. If it looks like it needs it then you've waited too long. The only prep needed (if you haven't waited too long) is to do a regular washing of the boat and teak. Dry the teak and wipe on another coat of teak oil. No sanding or scrubbing needed. It takes about half an hour (once every 3 months). Probably too much trouble for Cetol fans. I highly recommend "Watco" teak oil from the hardware store.
I have used comet on teak. It worked great. I used one of those foam-sponge type sanding blocks. It's amazing to watch nasty old teak "pink up" before your eyes while scrubbing. In my case I was removing old teak oil that had gone too long before touch up. I don't know how successful the technique would be if you are trying to remove old varnish or Cetol. I replaced the teak oil (love the look and the compliments) but now I make sure to add another coat every 3 months even though it doesn't appear to need it yet. If it looks like it needs it then you've waited too long. The only prep needed (if you haven't waited too long) is to do a regular washing of the boat and teak. Dry the teak and wipe on another coat of teak oil. No sanding or scrubbing needed. It takes about half an hour (once every 3 months). Probably too much trouble for Cetol fans. I highly recommend "Watco" teak oil from the hardware store.
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John G
Comet on teak
I've used a wood cleaner found fairly cheap in OSH and Home Base called "Ducks Back". The cleaner is an oxycylic acid (Spelling again) granulated powder you mix with water. Wet the wood with clean water, apply the cleaner solution water and scrub with a nylon brush. You can control the strength by the amount of granuals added to the water. I've used it for years on a redwood deck. One pint sized can lasts about four cleanings of a 500 sq. ft. area.
I've used a wood cleaner found fairly cheap in OSH and Home Base called "Ducks Back". The cleaner is an oxycylic acid (Spelling again) granulated powder you mix with water. Wet the wood with clean water, apply the cleaner solution water and scrub with a nylon brush. You can control the strength by the amount of granuals added to the water. I've used it for years on a redwood deck. One pint sized can lasts about four cleanings of a 500 sq. ft. area.
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Bob Camarena
Make a paste
Years ago I read somewhere about making a paste with household bleach and sink cleanser (Comet or Ajax type). Brush it on, let it sit a while, scrub and rinse well. I've done it with good results. At the time, maybe 10-15 years ago the article touted it as being less caustic than the commercial two part cleaners. That might not be the case with the newer ones.
Years ago I read somewhere about making a paste with household bleach and sink cleanser (Comet or Ajax type). Brush it on, let it sit a while, scrub and rinse well. I've done it with good results. At the time, maybe 10-15 years ago the article touted it as being less caustic than the commercial two part cleaners. That might not be the case with the newer ones.
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Michael Ward
Cetol vs Bristol
Patrick,It depend's on what the condition of the teak is.If it's very weather'd or remooving old cetol,I'd sand with 180grt then 220grt.Then i used Starbright two part cleaner,(it was free)but it did the job very well. I removed old Cetol(did't like it's pasty look)And used Bristol 3-part acrylic urethane.NINE coat's later it is absolutily beutiful,and has lasted well over 20 month's,I can see a few spot's were i need to touch-up.But very happy with the product.If the weather is right you can apply 3-4 coat's in a day(without sanding,but did sand before the last coat).It worked well for me. I'm starting on the interior next,and found a product called "TAKE OFF" and it remove's stain extremly easy,it dosn't fur the wood.I've been told it remove's old varnish as well. I'm going to use 3-coat's on all interior,I know it's going to be glossy but ought to be very pretty. Good luck! two part
Patrick,It depend's on what the condition of the teak is.If it's very weather'd or remooving old cetol,I'd sand with 180grt then 220grt.Then i used Starbright two part cleaner,(it was free)but it did the job very well. I removed old Cetol(did't like it's pasty look)And used Bristol 3-part acrylic urethane.NINE coat's later it is absolutily beutiful,and has lasted well over 20 month's,I can see a few spot's were i need to touch-up.But very happy with the product.If the weather is right you can apply 3-4 coat's in a day(without sanding,but did sand before the last coat).It worked well for me. I'm starting on the interior next,and found a product called "TAKE OFF" and it remove's stain extremly easy,it dosn't fur the wood.I've been told it remove's old varnish as well. I'm going to use 3-coat's on all interior,I know it's going to be glossy but ought to be very pretty. Good luck! two part
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