I've been putting this off. Now that I plan to build a new joint at the cabin to deck, I have to address this....
The joint between the coaming and cabin has opened over the years and people (myself and past owners) have been filling with various junk over the years. This is such a problem area of the Challenger for water leaks. I started pulling plugs and removing screws. The old bronze screws have about a 50/50 chance of removal on my boat. Those that don't come out, I cut through with a fine sawzall blade in a hand holder. They took some work, but finally I got the parts out.
As you may know, the upturned flange of the deck runs all the way to the corner(inside of the coaming). Then the deck flange turns down, and is bolted to the coaming. Any water that reaches that joint, goes into the cabin.
The top cap is screwed into the coamings, the filler block, and the through the cabin side.
Here's my plan; Clean up the blocks in my shop. Drill and scew the blocks and coamings back together with epoxy. Once dry, sand and shape the forward edge of the coaming-filler block while it is away from the cabin(about 1/2", that will make it easier).
Next, Clamp to the companionway(bar clamp) to pull coaming ends into the cabin(how tight? remains to be seen) and drill and screw from inside cabin. My hope is with thickened epoxy, proper screws and pilot holes to pull, I'll get a tight fit.
The joint between the coaming and cabin has opened over the years and people (myself and past owners) have been filling with various junk over the years. This is such a problem area of the Challenger for water leaks. I started pulling plugs and removing screws. The old bronze screws have about a 50/50 chance of removal on my boat. Those that don't come out, I cut through with a fine sawzall blade in a hand holder. They took some work, but finally I got the parts out.
As you may know, the upturned flange of the deck runs all the way to the corner(inside of the coaming). Then the deck flange turns down, and is bolted to the coaming. Any water that reaches that joint, goes into the cabin.
The top cap is screwed into the coamings, the filler block, and the through the cabin side.
Here's my plan; Clean up the blocks in my shop. Drill and scew the blocks and coamings back together with epoxy. Once dry, sand and shape the forward edge of the coaming-filler block while it is away from the cabin(about 1/2", that will make it easier).
Next, Clamp to the companionway(bar clamp) to pull coaming ends into the cabin(how tight? remains to be seen) and drill and screw from inside cabin. My hope is with thickened epoxy, proper screws and pilot holes to pull, I'll get a tight fit.
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