Circumnavigate in a Hunter

[chuckwayne]

So glad you're healthy. A friend of mine once said you can always make more money but you can't make more time.
I would go with the center cockpit since that puts you where the motion of the boat is least assuming you are thinking of offshore passages. Regarding how the modern Hunters handle weather I can only say that in a overnight race with weather my H356 would get the stern pushed around quite a bit going downwind in waves. It was to the point that helms people would tire in only a few hours. The autopilot, even if allowed to use it, would not have worked. A few posters here suggested having the rudder replaced/modified to be balanced (Meaning there is rudder stock forward of the rudder post.)
I don't know your budget but dockage and everything else is pretty prices for larger boats. If you plan to anchor a lot be aware that the Hunters and other light hulls with high freeboard sail around on their anchors quite a bit. You'll want top notch ground tackle.

Modern Hunters, including the 356 and the boats you're considering, have balanced rudders; the pushing around of the stern is a characteristic of modern canoe hulled fin keel boats. Using a below deck autopilot will help; the wheelpilot used on the 356 is at it's max load. Moving the center of effort forward can also help(reef main, larger foresail). Similarly, fin keeled canoe hulls tend to "Hunt" at anchor; we cured it by adding a riding sail that sets on the boom and topping lift.
BTW, we often will leave the main rolled up and sail downwind wing and wing - jib and spinnaker or code zero - nice, stable ride, even in fairly large seas

 

[DCGULL]

Well,
First- sorry I'm so late to the party, and congratulations on just being scared clear of mind! What a gift- the awareness of how brief our earthly visit really is, and deciding to 'live large while you can' is very clarifying- I hope that you are still on track & planning to make it happen. FWIW, 57 going through similar awareness & ending up in a similar place.
Second, I know you came to what you considered a good source of information but- as always- opinions are like a$5holes- everyone has one and most are willing to show you theirs since you are showing them yours! I beg you to keep the dream alive, do what YOU choose to do, on your terms. Sure, crawl before you walk, and walk before you run- but- DO IT!
Finally, Hunter (opinion) really came together around the year 2000 and design/production partnered to make some of the finest boats ever produced by Hunter Marine. Glenn Henderson really did some interesting 'tricks' to maximize the hulls for space, while allowing them to perform well in BOTH light/heavy air. Production boats can be excellent & can also be horror stories- I think from 2000 - 2012ish, Hunter had pride of design & build- they had some tight tolerances which they maintained over many hulls, creating some sturdy, well built boats. Not your grandpappy's Hunter of yore. (One man's somewhat considered opinion. I suggest you get others.)
I believe- correct me if I am wrong- that all Hunter boats over 36' are rated CE: A which is ocean passage making. No limitations but they advise you to stay out of hurricanes. This is a rating from the European Union and they do not care about interiors, or paint schemes, etc... They ask specific questions and want ASTM validated test results regarding load bearing & repeatability, stress tolerances & safety. So, say you want a H38 and want cross the Pacific- go ahead but carry enough life jackets for everyone you bring along for the trip.
Anyone who can't see the value of the traveler arch may be missing out on some of the designed in safety factors. Increased leverage, better load spreading, quick release in surprise gusts & it keeps the lines cleared out of the cockpit. The bow hollow does reduce the 'hobby horsing' and mast loading/unloading, and the reflex stern looks an awful lot like Marc Lombard's 'hard chine' being used in virtually every single modern boat being built today? Hmmm, was Hunter ahead of its time? I think so, and- obviously, you do as well.
The fundamentals look purdy darn good as well. Shaft drive can be repaired pretty much anywhere in the world where someone has access to a machine shop, right? Yes, a folding prop might add a 1/2 knot or less, but certainly would make me feel like I was sailing a little less of a slug. Yanmar makes a very good engine and demanded a design/build partnership with Hunter to ensure that they would remain long lasting- clearly- it worked. The B & R rig is sturdy- regardless of the swept back spreaders eating mainsails when sailing dead down wind. (There are multiple solutions for this issue.)
OK, the truth is- I'm thinking the very same thing you are- I too would like to circumnavigate in a Hunter. (2004 - 2012 H41 AC or DS.) Take a 2008, clean it up: standing/running rigging, soda blast the hull, re-seal it, all through hulls, fresh dripless stuffing box re-pack & new cutlass bearing, line cutter & zincs for the shaft end.
The following is what I would 'add' and don't expect to see on any H41 AC or DS that I come across.
* H2O maker- Doesn't need to produce crazy volumes, just good clean water.
* Fixed davits with a solar panel arch,
* 6Kwh generator generator plumbed in somewhere near the centerline.
* LiFePO4 Batteries. As much as the budget will bear!
* Hydrovane steering. Acts as a spare rudder, draws no electricity & works great!
* 'Traditional Rig' footed, fully battened mainsail with shorter mast.
* Full Keel. (6' 6") reduce upwind pounding (Increased pendulum) & added rudder protection
* Asymmetrical down wind sail
A very clean one will cost @ $140k & $60k seems to be a 'lite' estimate for re-fitting her, but- $200k 'all in' will probably be the best chance of success in a Hunter driven circumnavigation. It's probably safer to plan on $250k and 6 months to prepare her for service- I think a really good boatyard will be a good place to start the dream. I think I'll plan for an 18 month passage, possibly 2 years to allow for longer visits in some of the more remote ports of the world, occasional need for repairs and another $100k in reserves to allow for restful nights.
So, I have some oddball 'wants' like the traditional rig & a full keel (and associated costs?). But, I want the power & control of a fully battened, vang-tied mainsail because I spent most of my youth in a Laser and genuinely understand how to 'balance' a boat on its sail in that format. However, I have no idea of what a shorter mast & a footed boom plus associated rigging will cost. I don't know how to move a 6,200Lbs. keel into position, or what to use to seal it against the bottom of the boats keel step? Heck, I don't even know what torque values to use to ensure safe mounting! DOH! I'm willing to learn & don't mind paying the yard with the tools to get these items properly mounted.
I hope that 2 years after your initial post that you are on the water doing your circumnavigation in your Hunter already. If not, but still pursuing the dream- lemmino! I'll share what I've learned so far, and I'd love to have another resource when I have questions as well. (Flame suit on! I'm ready for 'Dumb & Dumber' jokes, 'the blind leading the stupid' statements- whatever!) Either way, I hope you are living your best life!

Dave