Charging System Upgrade Project
- Thread starter DayDreamer41
- Start date
My plan is to run the 2/0 negative to the negative bus bar, I may have to add some bar to the existing as she is quite full, I also plan on running the negative from the start battery to the negative bus as well. This will allow for more accurate voltage sensing for both the battery monitor and the regulator. Can't wait to mount the belt kit, I was able to remove the old stuff last Saturday, this coming weekend hoping to get the new pulleys and alternator mounted as well as reinstall my newly transitioned to LED fixtures. Those pulleys and alternator are going to look sweeeet, blue pulleys and a white alterntor!
Once this project is completed I plan to move on to replacing the standard packing in the shaft log with a PSS dripless seal which I bought last year.
Once this project is completed I plan to move on to replacing the standard packing in the shaft log with a PSS dripless seal which I bought last year.
Greg,
Did you finish gravity feeding your holding tanks?
I did the exact same upgrades on my electrical systems last season except I changed out the 3 4D's to 6 6v's and installed the Balmar SmartGuage. It doesn't give me my amp usage but I've been fine knowing with a degree of accuracy my state of charge. Takes a lot of worry out of anchoring out a few days.
Did you finish gravity feeding your holding tanks?
I did the exact same upgrades on my electrical systems last season except I changed out the 3 4D's to 6 6v's and installed the Balmar SmartGuage. It doesn't give me my amp usage but I've been fine knowing with a degree of accuracy my state of charge. Takes a lot of worry out of anchoring out a few days.
Bob
Getting ready to do holding tank. Real pain the was beneteau places the through hull fitting. Will use a flange adapter and modify base as surface on hull is uneven and on an angle.
Yes I am going to go with 6 volts when get new batteries. Do you have agm or flooded?
Greg
Getting ready to do holding tank. Real pain the was beneteau places the through hull fitting. Will use a flange adapter and modify base as surface on hull is uneven and on an angle.
Yes I am going to go with 6 volts when get new batteries. Do you have agm or flooded?
Greg
@DayDreamer41
Thanks so much for all the detail. A couple more questions.
I have two battery switches a 1,2,both switch for the inverter and an on/off for the starter. They are not wired very useful in that you can not switch the house battery to start the engine if needed. How do you plan to wire those switches. Others that have already done this work please tell what you did.
Did you need any special tools to remove the old V-belt pulleys? I have not looked at them close to see how they are attached.
@NYSail
did you discuss all your changes and tips you received in one of these forums? Could you add the link?
Thanks.
Thanks so much for all the detail. A couple more questions.
I have two battery switches a 1,2,both switch for the inverter and an on/off for the starter. They are not wired very useful in that you can not switch the house battery to start the engine if needed. How do you plan to wire those switches. Others that have already done this work please tell what you did.
Did you need any special tools to remove the old V-belt pulleys? I have not looked at them close to see how they are attached.
@NYSail
did you discuss all your changes and tips you received in one of these forums? Could you add the link?
Thanks.
forgot a question. Do any of you have trouble with the 6V flooded batteries setting off your CO and propane sensors when charging. My old Heart charger boils the batteries quite a bit and all the alarms will eventually go off if I do not turn on the bilge vent blower which is very noisy.
@Boog the battery isolator switches I am just leaving in place, the ACR I am adding (have to find a home for it close to the battery's) will allow me to connect the (2) banks together as a safety for engine starting. As for the V-Belt pulleys they came off very easily 4 x bolts (10 mm I seem to remember) on the cooling pump, 3 bolts (15 mm I seem to remember) on the alternator and done. There are some small connectors on the back of the alternator, careful with battery positive as it is live if your batteries are not isolated.
A more concerning statement of yours, your batteries are boiling, this is not good, what kind of batteries? are you sure the charger is set correctly? Batteries should only bubble vigorously when you are equalizing, on absorption there should be a bit of bubbling but certainly not boiling, you are ruining your batteries and may be causing a very hazardous situation.
A more concerning statement of yours, your batteries are boiling, this is not good, what kind of batteries? are you sure the charger is set correctly? Batteries should only bubble vigorously when you are equalizing, on absorption there should be a bit of bubbling but certainly not boiling, you are ruining your batteries and may be causing a very hazardous situation.
Time for a new battery charger. The old chargers murder batteries.
If you haven't read this article, you will find it very helpful. https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-marine-battery-charger/
I read this in the ACR manual and questioned whether I would want to connect a failing starter battery for who knows what reason to my house batteries. Do you thing that makes sense? A way around that would be to just disconnect the starter battery, but you may be in a hurry.
The ACR has a lower limit at which point it disconnects the batteries for exactly the reason you identify.
@Boog
I did not have one set discussion. If you go back in my history you will see the questions and responses (early July 2018). A lot of what i also discussed was private discussions the Maine who I bought all the equipment from. Also by me purchasing from maine Sail the alt came with the new pulley already attached ready for the serpentine belt.
Greg
I did not have one set discussion. If you go back in my history you will see the questions and responses (early July 2018). A lot of what i also discussed was private discussions the Maine who I bought all the equipment from. Also by me purchasing from maine Sail the alt came with the new pulley already attached ready for the serpentine belt.
Greg
Since it sounds like I will also need to replace my Charger/inverter. Anyone have any experience with the Magnum Energy MS 2000?
Magnum energy MS 2000...... sounds like a male enhancement product.
Looking at six 6 volt batteries. Anyone know how the Duracell’s compare with the Trojans with the same AH?
Thanks
Thanks
These are deka or east penn made. I heard their 6volt gc batteries are not bad..... but I am sure someone with first hand knowledge will chime in. They are a good price at sams club!
Greg
Well today I completed the install of the alternator, belt, belt buddy (tensioner), service switch, positive leads to the battery compartment and the regulator wiring.
All went really well, I am mounting the Balmar MC-614 Regulator in the area under my feet (the access panel at the bottom of the companionway stairs), you can see the black wire jacket from the alternator running forward just under the service switch. I still have to run the negative line which I have to order yet, its about 11 ft long to the battery box under the navigation seat.
I also pulled the instrument panel out today, I am going to attempt to replace the LCD screen for the Tach/hour meter this week, I ordered a the ribbon cable and screen a week ago from Ebay and received it yesterday, I have read some positive results on the success of the replacement. In looking at the available space in the panel I could always mount a Hobbs hour meter in the same panel, there is plenty of room.
I have a question on the final connections between the alternator and regulator that I am sure I will get answered as soon as Maine Sail gets a moment.
I will not be putting the cover back on the front of the engine in hopes of better air flow around the new alternator, that and who would really want to cover up this work, it just looks too good.
All went really well, I am mounting the Balmar MC-614 Regulator in the area under my feet (the access panel at the bottom of the companionway stairs), you can see the black wire jacket from the alternator running forward just under the service switch. I still have to run the negative line which I have to order yet, its about 11 ft long to the battery box under the navigation seat.
I also pulled the instrument panel out today, I am going to attempt to replace the LCD screen for the Tach/hour meter this week, I ordered a the ribbon cable and screen a week ago from Ebay and received it yesterday, I have read some positive results on the success of the replacement. In looking at the available space in the panel I could always mount a Hobbs hour meter in the same panel, there is plenty of room.
I have a question on the final connections between the alternator and regulator that I am sure I will get answered as soon as Maine Sail gets a moment.
I will not be putting the cover back on the front of the engine in hopes of better air flow around the new alternator, that and who would really want to cover up this work, it just looks too good.
Congrats on the install! You will love the power you get from this....... I love after being at anchor for a few days, turning the engine on to leave and watching the mc614 display...... make sure you program it to the correct voltage and charge time for bulk / absorb. / float. Factory settings are not adequate. Also if you call balmar for this, they will steer you into a different adjustment to compensate...... I think they do this to limit liability.
Anyway I will be at boat all day if you need and pictures or advise on wire connections between alt and regulator.
Greg
Anyway I will be at boat all day if you need and pictures or advise on wire connections between alt and regulator.
Greg
@NYSail Greg, I do have a question on the connections between the alternator and the Yanmar harness, there is a "T" connector on the Yanmar harness and the alternator has a matching connector, but, when I look and the card provide with the regulator it states, "usually not used" and in the manual it states, Yanmar engine harness regulator. The connection match, my question is, is it required, I have an amp gauge on the council and am wondering if this "T" connection provides for the gauge. There is also a single orange/blue wire from the Yanmar harness which I believe would be the ignition input to the regulator (brown wire), but I do not see this wire color in the council?
Greg did you connect this "T" connector and single orange/blue wire?
Greg did you connect this "T" connector and single orange/blue wire?