What’s your favorite cleaner? Do you then let the cleaner run through the engine?No, but I add injector cleaner. Easier than adding diesel.
What’s your favorite cleaner? Do you then let the cleaner run through the engine?No, but I add injector cleaner. Easier than adding diesel.
Jesse, I'm looking forward to your post on the fuel polishing system. Over the years, I have picked up some valves and fittings, intending to build a polishing system. I'm curious to see how you fit yours in the limited space we have available.Our boat, hull 65, has valves on both the supply and return. I never close either. For the most part it's a minimal flow and if you change the filter quickly there is no difference in the the amount of diesel that drips when doing the change.
I now have a valve in the engine compartment to stop flow there, that's part of a fuel polishing system I put in after Irma. Once I finish to tweaking the system I will put up a post.
Anyone here ever hear of putting transmission fluid in your fuel filter during changes? A lot of mechanics down here swear by it.
Leslie, I quickly looked at the article, but didn’t see a schematic of the layout.@Tom J join your international association. The latest Mainsheet has an article on installing dual filters with polishing and on engine filtering purge. You could do a single filter and use 1/2 the design. Written by a very cool dude (me)
Mahalo
Correct but look at the photo it gives the fuel flow. I can provide the electrical if needed.Leslie, I quickly looked at the article, but didn’t see a schematic of the layout.
Thanks, Les. I'm waiting for the latest issue of Mainsheet to arrive, but I live in Hawaii, and it takes a lot longer for stuff to get here.@Tom J join your international association. The latest Mainsheet has an article on installing dual filters with polishing and on engine filtering purge. You could do a single filter and use 1/2 the design. Written by a very cool dude (me)
Mahalo
Date on the sticker is 11/99, so it's original. I'll bet the one on Bob's hull #1 looks like ours. I'm sure they switched tank types sometime between #31 and your # 65.That is definitely a way different tank than ours. I wonder if it was a replacement done later?
Maybe. But I also find it interesting that it says "CA" after the Catalina. I am pretty sure that all the 310s were made in the east coast facility. I wonder if they found a problem during commissioning and this was the fix .Date on the sticker is 11/99, so it's original. I'll bet the one on Bob's hull #1 looks like ours. I'm sure they switched tank types sometime between #31 and your # 65.
Rob,What’s your favorite cleaner? Do you then let the cleaner run through the engine?
When we bought our C310 three years ago I had the yard replace the rudder bearing and steering cables (based on surveyor's report). Not something I wanted to try myself, especially since it was 90 miles away from home.My fuel tank does look a lot like the pictures. I have noticed that mine is not quite as accessible but otherwise looks the same. Last weekend i followed along in Jesse's "neglected steering system"moves.from 2015 and serviced mine. Parts of my steering system were very difficult to access, in particular when Jesse says he put a wrench on every nut...I could not access the nuts for the wire clamps at all. Could just barely reach 3 of the 4 bolts for the packing gland. Compared to Jesse's pictures I have very little room to access the steering quadrant or the fuel tank down below. Fortunately everything was in great shape but two of the packing gland bolts were loose and it could be moved by hand. I was barely able to tighten them up a little so it no longer moves.
Two other points...the first number of 310's were made in CA. I thinknthey moved them to Florida after hull # 40 or 50 I think. Second point is that I have heard that the 310 was the shortest production run in Catalina history. This is not true because I was told that the 375 was shorter with only 200 some built.
bob
I have changed the fuel filters on my catalina 310 numerous times. I am familiar with how to do it, but have a new issue. Normally I close both valves on the tank one would be for the supply to the engine and the other for the return. Since the engine is gravity fed from the fuel tank if the valve or valves are not closed fuel would continue to run if you did not close the valve or valves. My question is when looking at the tank, looking toward the stern there are two valves one to the right of the fuel sender and one to the left. The one to the right is easy to get to and turns very easily, the one to the left of the sender is harder to get to and does not turn very easily in fact I am afraid I will break the handle off if I continue to turn it off. The questions are do you have to turn off the return valve and is it the one to the left of the tank.
Thanks for any input,
Mark
They are self bleeding in that there is a return hose from the injectors to the tank. Fuel in excess of that is used in the injectors gets returned. So when the lift pump is running any air in the lines or filter housings will eventually be purged. Filling the new filter with fuel makes it happen faster, but it will happen eventually no matter what.My 310 (#17) is new to me. I've had a 27 for 17 years in which I've changed fuel filter many times and always had to open the knurled bleeder valve to bleed the air out, and open a bolt to let the air out to the high pressure pump.
I have read the posts on changing the fuel filters on our 310s and am a little confused. I was planning on adding a lift pump switch by the engine to easily bleed the air out but a couple of the posts have said that our 310s are self bleeding. I was also going to add a shutoff valve on the Racor filter. My question is : Do I need to bleed the air out if I fill the new fuel filter with fuel? I don't want to crawl down under to close the tank valve.
Frank H
US, Illinois, Lake Carlyle
As you noted on the other thread, the lift pump is wired to the forward portion of the key. I just push that key forward for about 30 seconds 3-4 times and start the engine. That typically bleeds out the air.My 310 (#17) is new to me. I've had a 27 for 17 years in which I've changed fuel filter many times and always had to open the knurled bleeder valve to bleed the air out, and open a bolt to let the air out to the high pressure pump.
I have read the posts on changing the fuel filters on our 310s and am a little confused. I was planning on adding a lift pump switch by the engine to easily bleed the air out but a couple of the posts have said that our 310s are self bleeding. I was also going to add a shutoff valve on the Racor filter. My question is : Do I need to bleed the air out if I fill the new fuel filter with fuel? I don't want to crawl down under to close the tank valve.
Frank H
US, Illinois, Lake Carlyle