Mainesail, Don't you have a plumbing wholesaler up there in frostbite land? It was -20 F. when I left Bangor in February 1960. I would never pay 20 bucks for a plain ordinary globe valve. :d
Changing Engine Oil on the hard
- Thread starter GKuffner
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Of course we do..
And because I was a rep at one point selling them commercial, industrial and residential HVAC equipment I still buy quite cheaply from many of them. I just purchased the supplies to tune my boiler today and paid 38% off trade pricing.
The problem is that most folks don't buy at wholesale. Many HVAC wholesalers in the NE still only sell to the trade though some do cash sales at trade+ pricing but you'd be better to buy from Home Depot at those prices.. I only quoted Aubuchon to show the relative difference in cost between a globe and a gate.. If I had to guess my cost would be about six or seven bucks for that not $20.00..
And because I was a rep at one point selling them commercial, industrial and residential HVAC equipment I still buy quite cheaply from many of them. I just purchased the supplies to tune my boiler today and paid 38% off trade pricing.
The problem is that most folks don't buy at wholesale. Many HVAC wholesalers in the NE still only sell to the trade though some do cash sales at trade+ pricing but you'd be better to buy from Home Depot at those prices.. I only quoted Aubuchon to show the relative difference in cost between a globe and a gate.. If I had to guess my cost would be about six or seven bucks for that not $20.00..
Has anyone ever used synthetics?
Now that general consensus is to warm the engine before changing the oil and the proper way to run water through our heat exchangers can I ask if anyone has used Mobil 1. I use it in my car and have seen notable improvements in performance and mileage. I just put my boat on the hard yesterday and will be doing my first oil change this weekend. :cry:
Now that general consensus is to warm the engine before changing the oil and the proper way to run water through our heat exchangers can I ask if anyone has used Mobil 1. I use it in my car and have seen notable improvements in performance and mileage. I just put my boat on the hard yesterday and will be doing my first oil change this weekend. :cry:
Regular Mobil 1 is not an API rated diesel oil. If your engine is older, with some hours, and well beyond the break in period you may also develop some annoying leaks when converting to a synthetic. This is not be cause the oil is bad, in fact synthetics are great if you convert to them shortly after the break in period is over but as an angine ages your chances of a leak free conversion are greatly diminished.
I really don't see much added benefit to a synthetic in a seasonal marine diesel. The blow by in a diesel pollutes the oil regardless of whether it is synthetic or standard oil. You'll still need to change it just about as often but you paid a lot more for it. The reality is that a diesel oils lubricity rarely wears out before it gets overly contaminated so oil changes are key..
Stick with a good quality diesel rated oil such as Shell Rotella or a Dello 400 and you'll be fine. My engine is going on almost 3k hours and has only ever had Shell Rotella 15-40 in her chaged every 40-50 hours. She burns no oil. I think any efficiecy gains on a sailboat aux would be expunged by the higher cost of a synthetic.
If you do decide to use a synthetic make sure it is an API rated diesel synthetic oil.
From the Exxon web site specs on diesel rated synthetics:
"The new Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 has been upgraded to meet the latest industry requirements, API CJ-4 for 2007 and later models. It will also meet API SM for gasoline."
Many of their other synthetics are also diesel rated now.
I have also heard stories of leaks developing after conversion from petroleum to synthetic but there are so many high mileage diesel trucks on the road these days converted to synthetic that such evidence may be anecdotal only.
"The new Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 has been upgraded to meet the latest industry requirements, API CJ-4 for 2007 and later models. It will also meet API SM for gasoline."
Many of their other synthetics are also diesel rated now.
I have also heard stories of leaks developing after conversion from petroleum to synthetic but there are so many high mileage diesel trucks on the road these days converted to synthetic that such evidence may be anecdotal only.
I was afraid after the fact -
that what I wrote wasn't quite clear enough. I was referring to the rubber seal itself (washer), not the globe valve. Im actualy quite fond of globe valves. I mostly don't even mind changing their washers and seats. It's easier than de-soldering and replacing a ball valve.
Note: Be VERY careful de-soldering an older, used ball valve. If even a little bit of water has gotten past the seal it will pop when it has attained the right temperature. It'll scare the black water out of you!
What I have developed a distaste for over many years of facility work is gate valves. I see them upwarde of 2" to 10" or so. They tend to self destruct and malfunction. Small things like the stem breadking out of the gate so they won't open, sediment dropping into the gate's path so they can't close. Minor things like that. I'm in a buiolding from 1972 and I don't dare even try to exercise the gates for fear of them breaking. Stuck gate: no water. No water: no Scotcch. No Scotch: No Christmas.
that what I wrote wasn't quite clear enough. I was referring to the rubber seal itself (washer), not the globe valve. Im actualy quite fond of globe valves. I mostly don't even mind changing their washers and seats. It's easier than de-soldering and replacing a ball valve.
Note: Be VERY careful de-soldering an older, used ball valve. If even a little bit of water has gotten past the seal it will pop when it has attained the right temperature. It'll scare the black water out of you!
What I have developed a distaste for over many years of facility work is gate valves. I see them upwarde of 2" to 10" or so. They tend to self destruct and malfunction. Small things like the stem breadking out of the gate so they won't open, sediment dropping into the gate's path so they can't close. Minor things like that. I'm in a buiolding from 1972 and I don't dare even try to exercise the gates for fear of them breaking. Stuck gate: no water. No water: no Scotcch. No Scotch: No Christmas.
I have had the Mobil 1 leak 
BUT it was on and older 2 piece rear main seal
I have yet to see any real proof of longer life as we have a water chiller motor that went 30'000 hours in 10 years on DINO oil with two changes a year
BUT it was on and older 2 piece rear main seal I have yet to see any real proof of longer life as we have a water chiller motor that went 30'000 hours in 10 years on DINO oil with two changes a year
Thanks,
Although my boat is 13 years old she sat on the hard for six season while the PO was working cross country. When i bought her she had 232 hours on her. I added 30 this season. I'm not sure she's even broken in yet.
I'll stick with a good diesel oil.
Although my boat is 13 years old she sat on the hard for six season while the PO was working cross country. When i bought her she had 232 hours on her. I added 30 this season. I'm not sure she's even broken in yet.
I'll stick with a good diesel oil.
Gary - Another longer-term option to consider is the following IF your boat has onboard fresh-water tank / system. T a fitting off your fresh-water tank (if you have a pressure pump locate the T BEFORE the pressure pump so water in the line will have no water pressure) - such that you can run a line with a shut-off valve to the raw water intake (between the seacock and raw water pump). When you want to draw in fresh water to the engine just close your seawater pick-up (seacock) and open the new valve off the T from your onboard fresh water.
I use this arrangement on my raw-water cooled Yanmar. Its nice because I could flush salt-water out of my engine at-will and easily run the engine on the hard. Becareful to never leave BOTH valve open or seawater will make its way into your freshwater system and perhaps your boat.
Good luck!
Rob
I use this arrangement on my raw-water cooled Yanmar. Its nice because I could flush salt-water out of my engine at-will and easily run the engine on the hard. Becareful to never leave BOTH valve open or seawater will make its way into your freshwater system and perhaps your boat.
Good luck!
Rob
I was stupid enough to convert not one, but two cars, with over 80k to synthetic. Both cars had the rear main seals & some PITA to get to turbo seals start leaking within a few days of the conversions.I have had the Mobil 1 leak
I have yet to see any real proof of longer life as we have a water chiller motor that went 30'000 hours in 10 years on DINO oil with two changes a year
I finally figured out why and stopped converting higher mileage cars to synthetic. Again it is great oil but probably not the best choice for a high mileage or hour conversion. As Don said Mobil does make a diesel API synthetic oil but it's not the regular Mobil 1 you would normally buy. Many of the European cars now come from the factory with synthetics so I don;t even know if the "after break in" is really that necessary any more..
Is farm tractor service a valid place to start? I know of six farm tractors with about 4000 hours each and twenty or more years work that run on the standard diesel rated oil. They are started and put into motion within 15 seconds with no special care. Some these tractors are dedicated to one piece of equipment and may not see service again until spring.
I ran my newly rebuilt diesel for 2.5 hours with rotella non-sythetic and then switched to rotella synthetic. I wondered if synthetic resisted dilution greater than nonsynthetic from the diesel getting into it. I know it resists thermal breakdown much better, but these engines aren't turbo charged so I don't see the oil getting that hot anyway.
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