Chainplate removal

[Tim Alden44]

Chainplates Replacement on My Alden: A Step-by-Step Guide

I’ve finally found time to write up my chainplates replacement project, and I’m happy to share with you. Thanks to many of you for your suggestions along the way! This post covers the entire process from start to finish, with tips and lessons learned to help anyone considering this project. This was challenging and I hope this guide saves you some headaches.
Note: I added a few images to this post. If you have questions about specific steps, let me know, and I can share more details or images directly.

Step 1: Disassembling the Cabinetry
The first hurdle was accessing the chainplates, which required removing a significant portion of the cabinetry in the saloon and head.

• Process: The cabinets were beautifully crafted with no glue in the joinery, which was a relief. I was worried about damaging the wood or stripping screws, so I opted for a hand screwdriver instead of a drill. This slowed things down but ensured no damage to the fasteners or wood.
• Tip: Label every piece meticulously! I used painter’s tape and a marker to number each of the 80+ distinct wood pieces for reassembly.
• Safety Note: Be patient to avoid stripping screws. A hand screwdriver gives you better control than a drill in tight spaces.

Here is a picture before I started removing cabinets.

Here is a picture with Cabinetry removed, exposing the chainplates and knees.

Step 2: Removing the Chainplates
This was the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the project. The chainplates were bolted to 4-inch-thick fiberglass “knees” (struts connecting the hull to the deck) and embedded in the fiberglass itself.

• Initial Attempt: I removed the bolts easily enough, but the plates were glassed in tightly. I applied DeBond Marine Formula from above and below, letting it sit for 24 hours. Hand-pulling didn’t work—the plates wouldn’t budge.
• Escalation: I rigged a portable car jack with a chain to pull the plates. The plates were so secure that they bent the jack!

Caption: Chainplate embedded in fiberglass after bolt removal, before cutting.

• Cutting the Fiberglass: After consulting the marina’s service manager, we decided to cut the fiberglass to loosen the plates. I used an oscillating multi-tool with carbide metal-cutting blades. The aft plates were accessible, but the mid and forward plates required hours of awkward positioning, swearing, and sweat—“boat yoga.”
• Safety Note: Fiberglass dust is hazardous! I used an N95 mask, safety glasses, earplugs, and a shop vac to minimize the mess. Despite masking off areas with plastic sheeting, dust got everywhere. Ensure good ventilation and full protective gear.

Caption: Fiberglass cut away to free the chainplate, showing the messy process.

• Final Extraction: After cutting, I used a heavy-duty floor jack to lift the plates. They moved an inch at a time, requiring me to knock them back down with a hammer and reapply the jack. This was tedious but eventually freed each plate.

Caption: Finally free! The chainplates after extraction.
Step 3: Fabricating New Chainplates
I had the marina’s yard fabricate new chainplates using the old ones as templates. They used 316L stainless steel for corrosion resistance, which I highly recommend for saltwater environments.

• Tip: Even if old hardware looks reusable, replace it all. I swapped out all bolts and deck fittings to avoid future surgeries. New hardware ensures longevity.
• 

Step 4: Repairing the Fiberglass
Cutting the fiberglass weakened the knees, so I reinforced the cut areas with new fiberglass and epoxy resin.

• Materials: I used woven roving fiberglass cloth and West System epoxy for its strength. I applied multiple layers around the cut edges to restore structural integrity.

Step 5: Installing the New Chainplates
The new plates were positioned, marked, and removed to drill bolt holes. I double-checked alignments to ensure a secure fit.

Step 6: Unexpected Benefits
Disassembling the cabinetry revealed hidden wires and hoses. I took the opportunity to:

• Replace old, corroded wiring with marine-grade tinned copper.
• Swap out all sanitation hoses in the head, eliminating odors and improving the boat’s livability.

These side tasks added time but were well worth it to avoid future disassembly.
Lessons Learned

• Label Everything: Numbering every piece of cabinetry saved me during reassembly.
• Safety First: Fiberglass dust is no joke—use full protective gear and ventilation.
• Patience Pays Off: Using a hand screwdriver and taking time with the plates prevented damage.
• Replace All Hardware: New bolts and fittings save future headaches.
• Consult Experts: The marina service manager’s advice to cut the fiberglass was a game-changer.
• Plan for Mess: No matter how much you mask off, fiberglass dust will spread. Be ready to clean thoroughly.

Final Thoughts
I’m happy with the results. The new chainplates are solid, the fiberglass repairs are robust, and the boat smells much better thanks to the new sanitation hoses. This was a tough project, but with patience and the right tools it’s absolutely doable. Feel free to reach out with questions.

everything back together...

 

[jackhart]

I'm still wondering why you felt the need to replace the chainplates?

 

[kappykaplan]

I'm still wondering why you felt the need to replace the chainplates?

(I've already decided just to replace them all given their age).

My boat was 25 years old when I purchased and the chain plates looked their age. They were replaced at the first winter refit.

 

[Tim Alden44]

I was on a boat that was dismasted off the coast of Cape Verde. This was caused by a chainplate failure on a boat that was a similar vintage as mine. This was a peace of mind project for me.

 

[jssailem]

My boat was 42 years old when we became friends. While the mast me was being refitted,I took the opportunity to service the chainplates. There were some minor marks that were buffed out. When you begin to take care of a mature boat inspection and service of all the infrastructure only makes sense to me.