Cetol or varnish below deck

[Manny]

Per the suggestion of someone on this site I tried tung oil when I refinished my interior and I am extremely happy with the results. It was so simple to use, quick to apply, and inexpensive. It's also held up very well.

Manny

 

[wvhills26384]

I use wipe on polyurethane. It takes more coats to finish but looks great - no sags or runs.

 

[philwsailz]

Ultimate sole is out of business. Gym floor finish is very similar to Ultimate sole as it has to be tough, shiny and have limited slip.

As for interiors there are many options but Cetol would not be one I'd personally choose. You don't need the UV protection in the cabin that you do outside. The UV inhibitors in Cetol make the finish tend towards cloudy. Any good polyurethane, Danish or Tung oil finish or a varnish will work. I use polyurethane and Varathane oil is the one I prefer but the PO's used Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane so I have continued with it.

Catalina and others are using water based polyurethane finishes these days..

Good morning guys!

I should point out that there are several different versions of Cetol, both for marine and residental use. Both the marine and residential versions have clear formulas that are crystal-clear with very little in the way of UV inhibitors. They are not cloudy at all, and provide a tough durable finish that is easy to apply and re-apply.

Here is a link to the corporate page that shows all their residential products:
http://www.nam.sikkens.com/product-category.cfm?product_category=exterior
You will see a clear satin product on this site that will be quite appropriate for a boat interior.


Here is the Jamestown Distributors website page showing the 4 Cetol Marine formulations, (yes, FOUR!) including their clear gloss topcoat. From experience, the Cetol Marine Gloss is a very forgiving, and provides a very beautiful finish.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...GRID&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=cetol_marine

I only post this reply to point out that there are choices when it comes to Cetol.

 

[Dragonfly]

The Cetol is so easy I would stick with it. I would use Cetol light below deck.

 

[zeehag]

cetol is very easy--you scrub with water and a 3m pad to get rid of the old stuff --just s bit--to p[repfor the new stuff and then when dry , apply ...lol....i just donot like the way it looks on my teak...LOL...looks fake..i use oil.......

 

[Chuckbear]

cetol is very easy--you scrub with water and a 3m pad to get rid of the old stuff --just s bit--to p[repfor the new stuff and then when dry , apply ...lol....i just donot like the way it looks on my teak...LOL...looks fake..i use oil.......

Not sure about yours but on our boat the wood looks far from fake and we have been using Cetol for many years and would not consider going back to varnish. Here are two of our hatches after being redone with Cetol, http://tinyurl.com/yb7drmd , so everyone can judge for themselves. Chuck

 

[zeehag]

Not sure about yours but on our boat the wood looks far from fake and we have been using Cetol for many years and would not consider going back to varnish. Here are two of our hatches after being redone with Cetol, http://tinyurl.com/yb7drmd , so everyone can judge for themselves. Chuck

each to his own taste--my taste makes me like wood not stain--i have REAL teak in my boat----i refuse to use cetol or varnish...i rub oil into mine--lol---and mine looks reallly goood--i have seen the results of cetol on yachtie wood---does not look like teak--mine does.....LOL

 

[Ed Welp]

Love the Chesapeake Bay

Ed -- I have an 84 H34 and am using clear satin polyeurythene varnish. Cetol is sort of overkill and it's cloudy. The clear satin keeps the wood grain and the orignial look, but lasts indefinitely. If you do a gloss varnish, you're going to have to do everything for it to look right. With the satin poly you can sort of do it section by section without it looking mismatched.
For decks, I've heard good things about ultimate sole and bet there must still be some out there somewhere.
BTW -- how do you like sailing out in that area? I'm moving to the Hampton Roads area soon and am planning on sailing out of Hampton.

We have live out here for 20 years and outside of some sunfish laking sailing in the midwest, the Chesapeake is all I know. I love it. Losts of easy overnight desinations from Hampton Roads. I am right accross the harbour from Hampton in Willoughby Bay at Rebel Marine. Have a good friend at the Hampton Yatch Club "Southern Comfort" and he loves it there.

 

[geneWj]

TP III's teak below deck is varnished, finally after 30 years a light sand and a new coat, probably out live me by several years!
geneWj

 

[biggio]

Someone in another thread had suggested Formby's tung oil on the interior. I tried it and I'm very pleased with the results. Easy to use, but wear gloves (it's tacky) and wipe the bottom of the can when you sit it down it will leave a stain.
Could this type oil be used on the exterior?

 

[william24424]

Doing it again...

Saving my sole for the second time. Used heat gun to remove old varnish & ultimate sole. Lasted 6 years, without a sealer, cabin flooded this year and varnish looks bad. My new method, 1) strip off old varnish 1a bleach wood 2) light sand 3) clean and 4) Use Interlux 1026 sealer 5) Interlux 95 gold spa varnish. If link doesn't work google 'Saving cabin sole'

http://www.windchecklis.com/index.p...saving-your-sole&catid=82:cruising&Itemid=404

 

[sailingdog]

IIRC, someone bought the rights to distribute/manufacture Ultimate Sole, and it will be coming back on the market shortly.

 

[Bad Obsession]

I used Dalys Sea Fin Teak Oil on the interior of my Hunter 22. After a few coats it began to look really nice. It was simple to use and apply too.

http://www.dalyspaint.com/catalog_seafin.html

 

[FlightRisk1]

Cetol looks "painted" to me; I use tung oil below, but I'm a Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS :naughty: )kind of sailor.

 

[woodster]

i am useing a spar urethane (HELMSMAN) indoor outdoor clear satin ....i dilute it down to a mix of 2 parts urethane 1 part mineral spirits ...then apply it like teak oil ...rubing it on and then rubing the excess off and let it dry ...the reason i am doing this is because the PO or whom ever put a light coat of varnish or some other material on ....and rather than try to sand it down to raw teak i sand it with 120 grit wet or dry sand paper ....then vac it down and apply the finish...this lets me refinish with out doing a majior refinishing job ....and when it is dry it looks like it has been rubbed with teak oil ...i would have rather been able to use teak oil but it would not penitrate the wood and would have taken for ever to dry ...the process i am useing was shared to me by a old timer that has over 55 years in the finishing field......and at my age i have learned not to argue with success near as much as i used to ...lol ....try it on a test pieace if you are interested.......obtw.....when it is dry it is also very hard on the surface .......i use a glove and an old clean tee shirt for and applicater.....

hope this gives someone another way to go or at least a new option....

regards

woody