Cetol application problem????

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Paul H

Took all my stern rail seats off and removed the wood slats. Used Amazon stripper at first(waste of time and money). When all the old finish didn't come off I started to use 280 grit sand paper. Worked fine.The wood was as smooth as a babies behind. Put my first coat of Cetol Marine on. Oh, by the way I was doing this in my basement (temperature about 50-60 degrees). it dried and I put on two more coats. Everything was going great. The wood looked great. Iwas really pleased for not having ever done this before. Well, I put the first coat of Cetol gloss on and let it dry 24 hours. Looked good. The second coat started to pucker and the grain started to come up from wood that I thought was perfectly smooth. The next two coats it got even worse. So, I took acetone to the wood got the finish down to where it was smooth again and started from scratch. Put a heater in the basement to warm the air up. The first new coat of Cetol gloss went on ok with a little bit of smudging(they look almost like finger prints). The second coat was ok. They turned out ok but not as bad as the first try. Any thoughts ,suggestions or help. I'm at a loss to think why the finish would develop this. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
 
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Bob Todd

Sounds like...

...prep was OK but the temp thing wasn't right the first time. You had it licked the second time. The other factor you didn't take into consideration, though, was humidity. This is critical with any finish. The coat you think is dry realy is not and has a tad of water from humidity to boot. That'll crinkle most any finish. I usually place my small bits in the oven at "WARM" for about 30 minutes prior to finishing. Let them cool down some before first application. I find this works very well to rid the wood of moisture, especially if they just came off the boat. For larger pieces, I let a space heater blow on them first. I have had very good luck with Cetol, one applicastion lasts 3 or 4 seasons before touching up. A lot of people don't like the looks of it, but I go for the ease of maint. While all these saps are sanding and varnishing, I'm out sailing. If I could, I'd replace every bit of teak on my boat with man-made stuff that would just clean up with soap and water. But, to each his own. Cheers, Bob Link below to my boat pics
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Bob Todd, your prayers have been answered!

Bob: Here is the site for you to start eliminating your varnish/cetol problems. http://www.plasteak.com/ I have seen the product and it looks very nice. I am thinking about trying some of the stuff myself.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Let us know!

Bob Todd: If you decide to try the Plastic Teak, please let us know. I have only seen samples and think that this stuff looks pretty good. I know that it looks better than and 'rough gray teak' or 'peeled varnish'. I have already removed the teak hand rails on my H'31. They have been replaced with S.S. rails. It actually makes the boat look better. Do not think that it is the answer for all boats. There are a couple of places that I think I am going to try it. I got a price on 1/2 round for an eyebrow and it was about $2/ft. I think that this would be in line with what teak would cost (maybe a little cheaper).
 
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Jim Maroldo

Cetol Promlem?

Sorry, but I just did the teak on the L'il Wass Ett last week, and I thought it came out great! the wood was grey
 
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Ray Bowles

I used the Cetol Satin on my companionway doors

last year and on my stern rail seats. I put on 3 coats and they came out perfect. I did not use any additional gloss or protecterent. I really didn't need to recoat this spring but I think I will. Sanding is not my favorate hobby. Ray
 
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Paul Housman

Cetol Help

Thanks for all the help. Don't know if I'm game to do it again next season. Will probably wait until the wood needs it and try again. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
 
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