Have an O'day 25 and want to install new pendant that I will purchase from D & R Marine. How is this done?
Jack Austin
Keel Over II
Jack Austin
Keel Over II
centerboard pendant install
- Thread starter Jack Austin
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It's pretty easy provided you can get at the bottom of the keel to let the centerboard down and get at the attachment point on the centerboard, whatever that may be. I would attach a strong string or twine to the end of the line in the cockpit and pull the old line out from the keel. You can use the string to pull your pendant line up into the cockpit, attach the pendant line shackle to the board, or whatever kind of configuration it may be, and you're right in business. Your board is about 17 1/4" wide and you may need to let it down a foot or two to get at the attachment point.
Joe
The tube comes down from the cockpit at a 45 degree angle. If you have another person, even someone that is unfamilar with boats it is a really fast job with one in the cockpit and one under the boat. Feeding the line back up into the cocpit by pulling your sting with it attached goes really easy if you have it feeding at the right angle. It can get wedged just trying to pull it without it feeding at the right angle. I, of course, found this out the hard way. But then my wife came out at just the moment I was going to get frustrated and climbed in the cockpit and pulled the feed string as I held the pendent line at the right angle. It is a snug fit. I bought mine from Rudy also.
Dave.
Does your centerboard pendant line have a long shackle on the end like mine?
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Thanks for the help!
Thanks to all who have responded. Especially the pics of the boat on stands as mine is. appears that I can kick out keel blocks and drop centerboard enough to install.
Jack
Thanks to all who have responded. Especially the pics of the boat on stands as mine is. appears that I can kick out keel blocks and drop centerboard enough to install.
Jack
Make sure that you shore up the hull under the stern and bow with wood blocks as I have done, just to be on the safe side. I was able to raise my empty 222 with the sailboat stands, even though I know full well that boat stands aren't made for this purpose. With that that said though, I used four of my boat stands in the stern of my friend's OD 26, plus a hydraulic jack under the bow, and poppets caused the hull to oil can a little. I was able to raise his boat off the trailer so that we could move the trailer over to have the keel sit squarely on his trailer's keel board. When dealing with this kind of weight you need to take every precaution by having backups in place, just in case something goes wrong. In the event that the string parts in the tube and you need to fish another tag line through, there's a small sheave that the pendant line goes through way up inside the centerboard slot. The pendant line needs to go through that sheave. The backup plate and the nuts and bolts for this sheave can be seen in the cabin at the soul plate where the tube and hose enters a hump. Good luck!
Joe
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It's possible, I guess. My friend Ray has an 86 O'Day 26 and he told me that his boat had a sheave up inside the centerboard slot. The only way to find out is to look up into the slot with a flashlight. I didn't know I had one until Ray mentioned it one day when he removed his centerboard. He drew up a sketch of his and gave it to me. Here's the sketch of Ray's centerboard, courtesy of my friend Ray.
You're all set then. Some of the O'Day 25s have a wire to rope attachment at the centerboard. I guess there were years when the O'Day designers did a lot of experimenting on their boats. If you have the shackle, chances are you probably have the sheave up inside the centerboard slot. It is attached to the top of a smaller slot up inside the keel slot.
Joe
I have no idea how this boat was originally set up. When i bought it the original owner had used a really thick speaker wire or some type of coated wire to raise and lower the centerboard. It was one of the first orders I did with D&R Marine was to buy that line that came with the shackle. I am amazed at how well the original owner kept the over maintenance of the boat but over the years replace certain parts with the cheapest method possible.
This spring I'm going to raise my boat up high on the stands and let the centerboard down to check my shackle. I'll have to shore up under the hull with wood blocks again, just to be on the safe side. I'll probably have to spot paint some spots on the centerboard anyway. I'll be ordering a gallon of Super Ship Bottom blue ablative paint in a couple of days.
does your 25 have the post in the cabin?
jack,
Do you have the centerboard raising post in the cabin or does your pendant go to the cockpit? I'd like to remove the post from my cabin (75 - 25' CB) but have no idea if I can re route it to cockpit. If yours goes to cockpit could you send me pictures of pendant rputing? thanks,
Skip
Skipperknc@yahoo.com
jack,
Do you have the centerboard raising post in the cabin or does your pendant go to the cockpit? I'd like to remove the post from my cabin (75 - 25' CB) but have no idea if I can re route it to cockpit. If yours goes to cockpit could you send me pictures of pendant rputing? thanks,
Skip
Skipperknc@yahoo.com
You may be able to do it Skip. We have a 1975 O'Day 25 in my YC. In fact, I sailed it up from the Cape to our club for a guy several years ago. The board on yours is no heavier than the ones on the later models in spite of the fact that yours has a metal winch cable. Rudy claims that you can get away with braid line in place of that cable. If you look close at the two pics that I provided above. One shows the inside of the keel slot where you can see the rope going through the single sheave, and the other shows my companionway mounts with the step removed and a pipe entering into a small fiberglass hump. Looking at the hump, you can see a small backing strap held in place with two bolts and two nuts. This hump is actually that small enclosier at the top of the inside keel slot and those bolts with the plate are what holds the sheave in place. If you have the room under your cabin sole to construct something similar to it for your boat, you may be able to do it. It would just require a longer pipe and a sheave. It would take careful planning though. If this isn't possible, maybe you could do it externally somehow with sheaves. It's worth looking into.
Joe
Thanks, I have some ideas now
After looking through the threads I think I can use electrical conduit (CPVC and quite stiff) with pre formed curves to act as a guide for the pendant. Since it weighs about 60 lbs that isn't a major load.
I am an engineer and have a lot of experience in making things function in my daily work. I just needed a starting point and the basics to get things in motion.
I'll probably install a small single block in the keel area for the first bend then rely on the curves of the conduit to take the load on the way to the cockpit.
It will be a project I tackle later in the Fall when my workload slacks off a bit.
Thank you again for all the help!
S/V SEAMAR
Lake Norman, NC
After looking through the threads I think I can use electrical conduit (CPVC and quite stiff) with pre formed curves to act as a guide for the pendant. Since it weighs about 60 lbs that isn't a major load.
I am an engineer and have a lot of experience in making things function in my daily work. I just needed a starting point and the basics to get things in motion.
I'll probably install a small single block in the keel area for the first bend then rely on the curves of the conduit to take the load on the way to the cockpit.
It will be a project I tackle later in the Fall when my workload slacks off a bit.
Thank you again for all the help!
S/V SEAMAR
Lake Norman, NC
It would probably be a good idea to try to get the boat in a position where the keel is exposed so that you can let the centerboard down and see the pendant line connection on the board. I remember diving down under my friend's 1975 O'Day 25 with one of the guys in the club with SCUBA gear on, to free up his stuck board. I had brought an old hand saw from home to let him use to free it up. When he got it free, it swung down pretty easy and I hefted it with my hand, but I don't remember paying attention to the cable connection on it the board. Anyway, it's important to know the type of connection to the board, as well as the width of the board, and the depth of the keel slot. If you have the clearances to do what you want to do, I would start at the keel inside the cabin and work my way back to the cockpit. I think there's also a short rubber hose connected to my pendant line pipe. My pipe is thin walled stainless steel I think, and it connects to a thru-hull fitting in the cockpit companionway step.
I think that when they first started building the O'Day 22 keel/centerboards, they located the pendant line pipe so that it went directly from the cockpit companionway step, down into the cabin to the centerboard slot and connect to the board. When they came out with the O'Day 222, they added the sheave and was able to get the pipe coming down further back and close to the molded interior of the cockpit, out of the way to make room for a 48 qt. cooler. This was the prime reason why I made my step so that it is removable. With the step off, I'm able to get a 50 qt. cooler in that area without removing settee cuisions to get it in there.
If you happen upon someone who has a later model O'Day 25 or 26, maybe you could talk to them about it and get a good look at it if they would permit you. Personally, I think it can be done with some careful planning-- one way or the other. If you're successful, please post some pics. We get a lot of inquiries about this subject on the forum. One guy on the forum was able to do it with sheaves mounted in his cabin and the pendant line exiting out through the Starboard companionway bulkhead. Good luck with that!
Joe
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