new owner of 1988 hunter 23, in removing stanchions this fall to cover boat, the old caulk picked up, and tore out a small piece of the fiberglass "glued" to the bottom of the stanchion. how to repair? and i am replacing tghe old teak hand rail on top of the cabin in same area. after removing the screws, the old teak breaks off instead of picking up, more of same old caulk, ( i assume this is old caulk, not white construction grade glue, looking for suggestions to loosen old caulk rather than ripping up more fiberglass am i correct in assuming it would be better to use a silicone white caulk when i replace stanchions? thanks for suggestions jim kerrigan
caulk (glue?) removal
- Thread starter ITHACAJIM
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Ithacajim, there are a couple of directions here..
First off, if you rebed (using something like 3M 4200) and cover the entire base plate, you should not have to repair the ding. It will be sealed with the rebedding. If it chunked off outside of the stanchion base that is a different story....It will need repaired. The first thing I would try is some braided fishing line. Take a piece of braided fishing line and try to start it under one edge of the piece to be removed. Then, working it back and forth like a saw, try to cut the bedding material. Wear gloves! The braided fishing line will cut your hands just as fast as it cuts the bedding material. If that doesn't work try some of the packaged caulking remover. Dap makes one, you may even try liquid nail remover or 3M caulking remover. It will be hard for the removers to be worked in under the item, so I much perfer trying to saw pieces loose with braided fishing line. Before you rebed, make sure there is no remaining original bedding material. The 88 hunter is real fiber glass so you should have no problems with using good bedding material like 3M 4200. If you do decide to use silicone, I would patch under the stanchion plate before rebeding. If you use silicone use a good grade of silicone. A tube of good stuff may run $7 or $8 where the 4200 would cost about $12 for half the quantity. Good luck, r.w.landau
First off, if you rebed (using something like 3M 4200) and cover the entire base plate, you should not have to repair the ding. It will be sealed with the rebedding. If it chunked off outside of the stanchion base that is a different story....It will need repaired. The first thing I would try is some braided fishing line. Take a piece of braided fishing line and try to start it under one edge of the piece to be removed. Then, working it back and forth like a saw, try to cut the bedding material. Wear gloves! The braided fishing line will cut your hands just as fast as it cuts the bedding material. If that doesn't work try some of the packaged caulking remover. Dap makes one, you may even try liquid nail remover or 3M caulking remover. It will be hard for the removers to be worked in under the item, so I much perfer trying to saw pieces loose with braided fishing line. Before you rebed, make sure there is no remaining original bedding material. The 88 hunter is real fiber glass so you should have no problems with using good bedding material like 3M 4200. If you do decide to use silicone, I would patch under the stanchion plate before rebeding. If you use silicone use a good grade of silicone. A tube of good stuff may run $7 or $8 where the 4200 would cost about $12 for half the quantity. Good luck, r.w.landau
Some thoughts on this
I like rw's "saw" and will remembere that. I am curious why this question got so few responses. I would try heating up the old calk as that may soften it up. Be careful with a heat gun, as they can, if you let it get to hot, damage your gell coat. I would not use anything hotter than a heat gun. For deck hardware I don't use 3m glues as they are too good and make things awfullly hard to get off, should the need or desire arise. I like either silicone or Life Calk (or is it Life Seal - I get them mixed up, buit the package will straighten you out). RW, forgive me for disagreeing with you on silicone. I read a Practical Sailor article a number of years back and they reported that silicone is pretty much silicone. Only two or three companies in the US actually make the stuff and they just package it for whomever. PS did say that at least one marine dealer claimed to put an anti-yellowing agent into it, but beyond that , they said what you get at Home Depot is the same stuff you get at West Marine. Being cheap, I have used the stuff from Home Depot for quite a few years and have never had a problem with it. I am surprised this topic did not draw more comments. i would be interested to hear aother's thoughts on bedding deck hardware, handrails, and such.
I like rw's "saw" and will remembere that. I am curious why this question got so few responses. I would try heating up the old calk as that may soften it up. Be careful with a heat gun, as they can, if you let it get to hot, damage your gell coat. I would not use anything hotter than a heat gun. For deck hardware I don't use 3m glues as they are too good and make things awfullly hard to get off, should the need or desire arise. I like either silicone or Life Calk (or is it Life Seal - I get them mixed up, buit the package will straighten you out). RW, forgive me for disagreeing with you on silicone. I read a Practical Sailor article a number of years back and they reported that silicone is pretty much silicone. Only two or three companies in the US actually make the stuff and they just package it for whomever. PS did say that at least one marine dealer claimed to put an anti-yellowing agent into it, but beyond that , they said what you get at Home Depot is the same stuff you get at West Marine. Being cheap, I have used the stuff from Home Depot for quite a few years and have never had a problem with it. I am surprised this topic did not draw more comments. i would be interested to hear aother's thoughts on bedding deck hardware, handrails, and such.
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